Ok, I thought I understood what a twin stick does. I plan to install a spool to my AMC 20 and a locker to the D 30. I was told that with a locker, you may have trouble making tight turns on trails. So I was told you could either A. unlock one of the hubs, B. Do a 5 point turn, or C. have a twin stick and take the front shaft out of 4wd. Now is this a good reason for a twin stick? What other use is there for upgrading to one? I don't think I want to remove the interlocking pins if I do this upgrade so I won't be able to use just front wheel drive. Now I have seen where you can't put the jeep in 4 lo upfront if you do a twin stick upgrade. Is this correct?
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Originally Posted by berserker
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84 Cj 7 w/ 4-Banger, 4.5" BDS lift, 1/2 Trans Drop, Twin Stick, 32" Tire, Front Aussie Locker, No Sound System Yet, No Armor, Warn 8274 Not Installed, Webber Carb Upgrade, Luckycheese Ing. Upgrade...
I don't think I want to remove the interlocking pins if I do this upgrade so I won't be able to use just front wheel drive.
You're wrong here. Even with the pins left installed, you will still be able to have front wheel drive -- however, you will only be able to select LOW Range front wheel drive. The interlocking pins, which prevent one axle from being put in a different range than the other axle, also prevent you from attaining HIGH Range front wheel drive.
Yes, putting the front axle in Neutral when making tight turns on the trail with a locker is one of the main ways of using a twinstick conversion. That will allow you to leave the rear axle in LOW Range while making that tight turn -- something you can't do without a twin stick (without exiting the vehicle).
You will also be able to do "front digs", which is accomplished by putting the front axle in LOW Range and the rear axle in Neutral. With a little practice, you'll be able to drive sharply around trail obstacles and then put it back in 4WD LOW range.
1977 CJ7, AMC360 V8 w/ headers, DUI HEI, Edelbrock intake, Holley 4150 carb, , TF999, D300, D30 front and AMC20 rear with 4.56 gears and lockers both ends, 4" susp lift, 2.5" body lift, 35" BFGs, ARG steering, 8000-lb winch, etc.
Here's a site to help with the interlock pins 4x4Wire - Dana 300 quick tips . Doing this modification maintains the interlocks, but allows you the avaliability of all 6 positions, (yes you get front wheel drive hi & low range).
'79 CJ5 258 w/MC 2100 & Team Rushed, NP435/Dana300 <--twin sticked, NT Dana 44 (w/Aussie) rear, and NT Dana 44. 3" susp lift, Currie shackles, 1" body Lift, Durabaked tub inside & out.
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true, a locker in the front is a real pain for going around turns, i have a power-lock in the front of my old willys and its still a pain. as for unlocking one hub, well that would be a real pain to have to get out every time you came to a turn. id go with some type of limited slip in the front and with the spool in the rear youd be able to go anywhere.
I did the grinding mentioned in the article JavaTee posted. So I have front drive only if needed. But the surprise benefit I got from twin sticks is that the D300 is now easy to shift. I used to spend 5 minutes rocking it back and forth trying to get it out of 4wd. Once you see how it is built it all makes sense that it is a lot easier to shift with two independent sticks than one.
on the d300, there are 2 rods, one for the front and one for the rear. A twin stick simply isolates the rods (different from most transfer cases)
said all that to say, I was having lots of trouble shifting my OEM shifter(bothrods) into low. no problem in with my twinstick, I think that something might not be lined up perfectly, and shifting one at a time seems to be no issue vs both at the same time.
I am locked, and it's so nice to be in rear 2low around trails (easy steering) and simply slid the lever forward before the obstacle,,, and can do it at a slow roll, so I don't even have to stop. (much less get out). best $120 I spent on mine.
83 CJ-8 scrambler
Locked and Twin-sticked
35's, fenders cut
leaks just about everything
Just how similar to the D300 is the 20? I'm borderline on whether to go with twins or not, and the F2HI is the one setting I can't get as of now. If I can get it this way, I may just be inclined to get the twins. I just wish it'd look stock - that's my other reason - I like the all stock look I have now...
1978 CJ5 5.0HO/T177/D300, '86 D30/D44 WT axles, 'glass body, 31x10.5 BFG A/T, TDK galv'd frame - DD and weekend toy