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Unread 10-28-2010, 07:09 PM   #1
brian181
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why is my engine tilted back??

Ok, so when I bought my jeep back in July I noticed that my engine didnt sit level, the front of the engine sits higher than the back. I didnt think much of it at the time until today when I tried to replace my old leaking plastic valve cover with a new aluminum one. The tilt is so bad that the top rear of the old valve cover actually touches the fire wall and I cant get to the rear bolt. Ugggg!!! Why is this? did someone take a short cut when they installed the suspension lift?
Any help here would be much appreciated.

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Unread 10-28-2010, 07:12 PM   #2
VACJ7
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It is designed to tilt back, but not that far. Your transmission mount is probably shot and/or the engine mounts.
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Unread 10-28-2010, 07:13 PM   #3
ihavetheWILLto
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Do you have a body lift?

If so a previous accident or hitting a tree on a trail may have moved the body forward slightly. Otherwise check the tranny and engine mounts.
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Unread 10-28-2010, 07:13 PM   #4
ChaseB
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Transfer case drop on??
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Unread 10-28-2010, 07:24 PM   #5
brian181
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there is no body lift, only a suspension lift. As far as I can tell, the engine mouunts are solid-the rubber looks good. I am not sure what the transfer case "drop on" is. I will have to take a closer look at the transmission mounts, but I am pretty sure they are solid too.
The one thing I did notice was that there are two rubber mounts on top of each other on both sides. Is that normal?
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Unread 10-28-2010, 07:32 PM   #6
VACJ7
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Transfer case drop will have spacers between the skid and the frame. The two rubber mounts stacked sounds like a body lift. Or do you mean the top rubber mount and the isolator under the frame mount? Can you post a pic?
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Unread 10-28-2010, 07:36 PM   #7
littleturner76
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look at your skid plate under the transfer case/transmission, if it is bolted to the frame and is flush, you do not have a drop kit if the bolts holding it on has any spacers or washers even, between the frame and the skid plate then you have a drop kit. depending on the amount of lift you may be able to remove it or shorten the space between the frame and skid plate. your problem is very common, and can only be corrected with axle shims and possibly drive shaft replacement.
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Unread 10-28-2010, 07:36 PM   #8
littleturner76
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VACJ7 View Post
Transfer case drop will have spacers between the skid and the frame. The two rubber mounts stacked sounds like a body lift. Or do you mean the top rubber mount and the isolator under the frame mount? Can you post a pic?
x2.... sorry must have been typing at the same time. pics are good!!!!
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Unread 10-29-2010, 06:52 AM   #9
brian181
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Ok,
First off-thats for the speedy responses!

Littleturner76 I do have spacers (about 2") between the skid plate and frame, so It looks like I have a transmission drop. I guess that is done to help keep the drive train in line after the PO put in the suspension lift?

VACJ7-As for the stacked motor mounts, there are what appears to be two rubber pads stacked right on top of each other between the motor mounts and frame. I am pretty certian there is no body lift because the body mounts are only about 1/2' thick so the body is sitting almost right on the frame.
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Unread 10-29-2010, 07:08 AM   #10
JeePete
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definitely need a pic here.....

take some pics of the motor mounts and underneath, where the trans/transfer skid plate, drop spacers are located.

I have the "drop" installed, but there doesn't seem to be any perceivable "tilt" to the motor......
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Unread 10-29-2010, 10:52 AM   #11
gojeepin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeePete View Post
take some pics of the motor mounts and underneath, where the trans/transfer skid plate, drop spacers are located.

I have the "drop" installed, but there doesn't seem to be any perceivable "tilt" to the motor......
The intent of the transmission/transfer case drop is to match the transfer case yoke angle (down) with the new pinion yoke angle (up). One inch doesn't give you much of a visual difference except between the firewall and valve cover.
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Unread 10-29-2010, 11:12 AM   #12
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The intake at the carb base should be level. If you look at it you'll see the manifold is at the carb base is a bit lower in the front so the carb sets level for the floats.
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Unread 10-31-2010, 12:38 PM   #13
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The engine/transmission assembly is basically supported by a tripod. The three points of the tripod are the two engine mounts in the front and the the transmission mount. If the transmission mounting point is lowered, it makes the whole assembly tilt backward. If the transmission mounting point is raised, the whole assembly will tilt forward.

It sounds like you need to tilt the engine forward to replace your valve cover. You can do this relatively easily on a temporary basis. First, remove the nuts on on the two transmission mounting studs that are in the center of the skidplate/crossmember. You will notice there is a third stud with a nut on the bottom of the crossmember. This is the transmission isolator mount. The mount has a nut on the underside of crossmember and a nut on the transmission side of the crossmember. To get either nut off you will need to keep the other one from rotating. I've found it's easier to remove the nut on the top of the isolator, but you can remove whichever one comes off more easily.

After you remove the transmission mount bolts, the only thing holding your transmission to the skidplate/crossmember and your engine tilting backward is gravity. You can carefully (and slowly) raise the transmission up using use a floor jack to take up the weight of the transmission. It is usually easiest to place the jack right in front of the crossmember/skidplate with a flat chunk of wood between the jack and the transmission so you don't mar it up. As you raise the transmission up, your engine will become level. It should only take an inch or two (about the distance of the spacers between your frame and the crossmember.

That is the temporary part to allow you to replace your valve cover. Once you replace it, lower the jack slowly while you have someone check to make sure your new valve cover isn't contacting the firewall (it probably will because the aluminum valve covers are usually taller than the plastic ones). I'd put a hunk of leather or a leather work glove on the part of valve cover you think might hit so it doesn't scratch up the firewall in case your assistant is marginally qualified in observation and communication skills. If it doesn't hit, then replace the nuts on the transmission mounts and the isolator and you are done.

If it does hit, or if you want know you want to remove the crossmember drop-kit (the extra spacers between the frame and the crossmember), you can leave the jack supporting the weight of the transmission. At this point, you should put a jackstand under the engine/transmission wherever there is room (under the oil pan or bellhousing). It will be tough with the floor jack in the way and you might have to reposition the floor jack to make room for the jack stand. The reason you are doing this is because you are going to remove the crossmember and there will be nothing to hold the transmission up if the jack fails.

Once you have the jack and jack stand supporting the transmission, you can remove the six bolts (three on each side) holding the crossmember to the frame. These are sometimes difficult to remove, but if your transfer case hasn't been on very long it might not be an issue. It is usually a good idea to spray some penetrating oil onto the crossmember bolts before attempting to remove them. If it takes excessive force, you can try heating the area around the bolts with plumber's torch to make it easier to remove them. Try to avoid breaking the bolts off in the frame.

Once you have the crossmember bolts removed you can remove the spacers and bolt the crossmember back on. I use anti-seize on the bolts so I can remove them years down the road without breaking them off.

Removing the spacers might cause your rear driveline to vibrate. If it does, you either need to put them back in, or add axle shims to correct your pinion angle to match the angle of the yoke on your transfer case. You could also remove the lift to restore the driveline angles, but I assume that isn't a real option.
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Unread 10-31-2010, 01:56 PM   #14
brian181
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Berserker,
Thaks so much, very informative and helpful info. I appreciate you taking the time to explain this. I had to put the valve cover on hold because i had some overheating issues going on. After a brand new radiator, thermostat and noses I am hoping I am done with that issue. Anyhoo....thanks again for the help, I am up in the air if I am going to try this fix myself and risk breaking something-cause something ALWAYS friggin breaks!! Or just suck it up and take it to the transmission shop up the street and let them deal with it.
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Unread 11-02-2010, 07:30 PM   #15
brandon1
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The skid plate has different step ups and holes. Can you unbolt it an slide it forward to another step and raise the trans up in return that would change the angle of the engine?
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