Where the >>BLEEP<< can I get decent battery terminals?? - Page 2 - JeepForum.com
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Unread 04-14-2013, 08:52 PM   #16
gwolff
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1978 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
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Napa has the quality parts and can also crimp the ends. Solder when you get home then heat shrink.
+1 on jeep hammers post(s) as usual.

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Unread 04-15-2013, 03:31 PM   #17
turbogus
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1978 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Albany~town, Oregon, Oregon my home and for 200 billion slugs
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Since I discovered them I like these military type terminals;



This enables us to use the welding wire that JeepHammer mentions in his outstanding posts.

Even more recently I found a seller of these rubber booties for 'em (where were these guys when I had a '69 VW Bug);



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Unread 04-15-2013, 10:06 PM   #18
Vitabrevis
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1985 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
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When I worked at a chain auto parts store I had to change dozens of terminals with the universal ends. I don't think any of them ever fit snug, they sell shims for few bucks. I did see one idiot make his own shims out of a beer can....
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Unread 04-15-2013, 11:43 PM   #19
5-90
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Quote:
Originally Posted by james04si View Post
My PO changed over to a battery with side posts that screw in vs the regular top posts and that's one of the few "upgrades" that I kept. We won't discuss the wooden shelf he built on the inside of the fender to set the battery on without holding it down at all. Only problem I have had was the wonderful Walmart employees that said a battery with side posts would never work in my jeep because the book didn't specify that battery.
"Side posts" are a GM "innovation" - done to help lower hoodlines, without having to lower the battery in the engine bay.

GM took a few years, but they figured out that side posts are difficult for a number of high-current applications - not enough cooling airflow over the terminal/pad assembly, and large engines or extensive high loads can heat the pads up to the point where they melt right out of the battery case!

Most battery manufacturers recommend a limit of 75A through the side posts pad for more than a few minutes, for that reason. (That, and lead melts at low temperatures.) The exception is Odyssey - I believe they use brass, nickel brass, or nickel-plated brass for their pads, I haven't checked. But, they say "No problem" - even for a winch! I haven't had a change to verify how or why.

Based on information gathered from Exide, International, Autolite, and Optima, I typically recommend using side posts for accessory distribution up to 75A constant-duty, up to about 200A for infrequent use (up to two minutes out of an hour,) and not for winching at all!

Nota Bene: Starter motor loads for our beloved AMC sixes typically run 110-130A (no load) or 160-180A (cranking current.) Plan accordingly.
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Unread 04-16-2013, 01:59 AM   #20
John Strenk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 5-90 View Post
....

Nota Bene: Starter motor loads for our beloved AMC sixes typically run 110-130A (no load) or 160-180A (cranking current.) Plan accordingly.
What do you mean by "110-130 amps NO LOAD" ????

Spark plugs out, throttle open, turning the engine over or starter spinning freely not connected?

Either way it should only take a few seconds to start an AMC i6 so if the post is clean ad tight, there should be no problem with overheating the side post terminals.
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Unread 04-16-2013, 07:41 PM   #21
james04si
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Right there with you john. I have had mine for the 15 years I have owned mine and never had any issues. My old 232 used to crank for a good 20 secs before it would start cold.(new 258 cranks immediately with TBI) that being said the most drain I had on mine was probably my old stereo with 3 amps for a total of 2800 watts. I don't have a winch though.
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