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sanctified 06-10-2013 11:37 PM

When to replace yokes? (Pics)
My CJ7 is SOA (PO) with a bad pinion angle. I was in Moab two weekends ago and popped ubolts several times. I had extras and was able to replace them on the trail pretty quickly. As a trail fix after replacing the whole u joint the first time, subsequent breaks I just popped on new u joint caps from my spares. (this saved me a lot of time on the trail, but I recognize it as a trail fix, not a long term best practice answer.)

What was happening I believe is that when faced with a steep incline to climb the yoke on the axle would bind in some degree and the u bolt straps would hit the driveline causing them to bend. When there was enough force on them and they would bend enough the caps would explode and disable the 7. This ended up causing wear on the yoke connected to the axle and on the yoke on the drive line. (I have a Tatton double cardan on the TC side and its heavy duty. PO)

I noticed on Friday while headed home from work there was and extra wobble while on the gas that wasn't there before. It disappeared when coasting. I hadn't driven it since then until tonight when I took it to the grocery store just down the way. Four blocks from my house at an intersection the driveline popped off again. (Figured out the wobble I guess.) I had to run home to get my 1/2" wrench to pull the driveline and while walking home I was thinking about how to get this resolved.

At what point do I need to replace the yokes? Do they get warped or stretched? While I pounded out the u joint that was in it a piece of the yoke (DL side) peeled off, a small piece that was the lip on the retainer clip. Also Does the yoke come off the axle by just removing the big bolt that I can see in the middle of it?

I plan on fixing the pinion angle before I wheel it again but I have been driving it to work. (13 miles each way, mostly freeway at 65 mph) I really need to replace the springs and will probably go back to SUA with a 2.5" lift. I am just trying to figure out what I need to do to get this back on the road ASAP while I save my pennies for the lift.

Thanks for reading this book. Link to pictures is below, I tried to take a bunch so that you can see what I look at when I am doing this. Let me know what you think.

Link to drive line pics.

82JeepCJ7 06-11-2013 12:40 AM

Need to put a DC driveshaft on the rear....

sanctified 06-11-2013 08:53 AM

I already have a DC on the TC side. Are you saying I need a double DC? DC on both sides of the drive shaft?

cj5huntingrig 06-11-2013 09:27 AM

Sounds like a blown u joint. Check for movement between the u joint shafts and the caps. I would guess u are missing a few needle bearings.

markso125 06-12-2013 10:21 AM

Why don't you fix the pinion angle before you go spending more money on replacing yokes? Then replace the yokes as an extra precaution when you are done
Seems like that would be the best solution too your problem, and probably the best way to keep it from happening again.

deadeye 06-12-2013 03:16 PM

Those yokes look pretty beat up, they need replaced bad. It looks to be like they have been binding up from the pinion angle being wrong.
Yes the pinion nut is what holds them on.

cj5huntingrig 06-12-2013 03:22 PM

Holy poop. Just looked at your pics. Yep toast. Its time to change pinion angle and have a new cv shaft made.

skizriz 06-12-2013 03:24 PM

I don't see any type of "anti wrap" bar on there. With a SOA on stock springs, the axle wrap can tear your drive shaft to pieces.

I would fix the hole in the boat before I started bailing out the water.;)

sanctified 06-26-2013 10:43 AM

Ok, so I am looking at anti wrap/ladder/traction bars. I don't have fab skills so making the part is not an option. I see the M.O.R.E. bar is pretty popular but have also looked at the Sams Offroad unit (there is one lower on the page that it regular duty and seems to fit my goals). I have googled these a bit but I am having a bit of trouble understanding how they are mounted on the TC side and there aren't really many good pictures of that connection.

I believe the MORE install instructions say to mount in on the cross brace but to beef it up if you do that. Where and how is a good way to do this? I found a YJ thread where the guy ran flat stock between the frame but it didn't seem like it was connected to the skid plate/TC cross brace. I am trying to figure out the best way to get something mounted.

Another question. My pinion is already angled up towards the TC but I think it may could use a bit more angle. I am going to put stock height YJ springs front and rear but probably not until after I do the anti wrap bar. I don't want to have to readjust my antiwrap bar after I do that though and since its welded on what kind of compensation should I be taking into consideration? Is this a bad idea to do these two upgrades seperate?

Thanks for the help and insight. Pics of your rigs with the anti wrap bars installed on the TC side would be greatly appreciate.

sanctified 07-03-2013 08:10 AM

I'm going to bump this with a couple comments and a quick question. I have ordered the MORE traction which should some today. I will hopefully get it on over the long weekend to fix the axle wrap. I also just got all the parts to replace the rear springs and will hopefully do them this weekend as well. I got new shackle hangers and new 7" long spring perches to also help with the axle wrap and I'll be running 5 leaf stock YJ springs.

Now for my question- I feel like I need to replace the pinion yoke but am not sure what else needs to be replaced at the same time. I already have the "conversion" yoke on there that accepts u bolts rather than straps. I found this yoke rebuild kit from Alloy but I don't know if its what I need. Do I need replace the pinion seal? I am not leaking and don't want to replace it and have issues with my seal job (like I did with the inner axle seal replacement I tried). (I found this kit for like $65 on Amazon) Can I just pop off the nut and pull the yoke off and slip the new one on and tighten it down with a new nut??

I have read about raising the axle and spinning the wheels with a torque wrench to find the torque spec but I'm more concerned at this point trying to figure out what I need to buy.


markso125 07-04-2013 10:30 AM

yes that is the replacement yoke kit for the axle you should get, that will give you a new yoke and everything.

I would also get ahold of Tatton and see how much a replacement slip yoke is for your driveshaft, yours is pretty beat up from the pictures you posted it would be a good idea to replace it.

sanctified 07-04-2013 07:01 PM

I dropped by the tatton shop since I'm a local to them last week and a replacement slip is $65 and to have it rebalanced is $35. I'm going to get that done but not for another little bit.

Spieg8 07-04-2013 11:49 PM

Sorry if I missed it, but did you verify that your drive shaft is not twisted/bent? If the ends are not in phase, you will have all kinds of trouble. Just a few degrees out of phase will strain the joints. That's where I would start before spending all kinds of time/money on other upgrades (although they are probably worth while also

agear 07-05-2013 02:58 PM

597 Attachment(s)
No you will not have to replace the oil seal. Yes just remove ,replace and retorque to spec the yoke at the transfer case.

sanctified 07-07-2013 12:45 AM

I started to replace my springs on the fourth and got the driver side torn down when I decided I wanted to rattle can the shackles. I pulled the pass side off to that point and painted them. I got bored while I waited for them to dry and started to rip the rest down. As I loosened the pass side spring u bolts the perch fell off. It seems that the welds broke at some point and took some of the axle tube with it. Some gear oil is making its way through the crack but I'm not sure how extensive the damage is. I don't even know where to go from here.

The time now is 04:26 AM.

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