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TeraFlex Now at Rockridge 4WD! BEST DEALS around!Alloy usa heavy duty ball joint kitsENGO QUADLUX 6" to 54" LED AMBER AND WHITE MULTI

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Unread 07-13-2013, 11:43 AM   #16
robs7
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Alright, will do. I'll probably find some muscles that I've forgotten about. I've got a nice stick of rigid conduit in the garage that's just dying to be used. I'll let you know how it goes this evening. Thanks for the heads up. Rob

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Unread 07-13-2013, 12:07 PM   #17
LumpyGrits
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Do as the FSM sez.
On the ground and add what I said.
Then save $$$ for those Moser 1 piece axles.
Those AMC 2 piece axles are pure, 110%, CRAP!
X2 on 3/4 drive and a cheater bar.
Use new cotter pins too.
LG
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Unread 07-13-2013, 12:39 PM   #18
skizriz
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Tighten the other side also while you are at it.

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78 CJ7 258 TH400/Dana18 SOA/stock YJ springs 35" General Grabbers.
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Unread 07-13-2013, 12:46 PM   #19
robs7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LumpyGrits
Do as the FSM sez.
On the ground and add what I said.
Then save $$$ for those Moser 1 piece axles.
Those AMC 2 piece axles are pure, 110%, CRAP!
X2 on 3/4 drive and a cheater bar.
Use new cotter pins too.
LG
You reeeaaallly want me to get those Moser's huh LG. That will have to be another day though my friend. Pockets are a little shallow right now.
Rob
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Unread 07-13-2013, 03:32 PM   #20
LumpyGrits
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YES, the Moser's are the best upgrade you can make to the AMC 20 rear. It's what AMC should have done to begin with.
I have installed many sets for friends and they are worth the $$$.
Save as you can.
All the best,
LG
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Unread 07-13-2013, 08:23 PM   #21
MoC
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I bet if everyone checked and re torqued the hub bolt at least 2 times a year there would be 90% less spun hubs..
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Unread 07-13-2013, 08:27 PM   #22
robs7
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Your probably right. I finished this up tonight with a strong arm plus 4' cheater bar. I know their tight now. Out of curiosity though, what part would wear enough to cause them to have play? I know the castle nut didn't back off because the pin was there. Is it the bearings wearing? Rob
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Unread 07-13-2013, 08:32 PM   #23
LumpyGrits
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Don't agree, as large tires and locking diffs put mucho' strain on a piss pour excuse of an axle.
LG
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Unread 07-13-2013, 08:37 PM   #24
LumpyGrits
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Rob, has nut'n to do with the axle bearings.
It just a pour design that was pushed by the AMC 'bean counters' at the time.
When you tighten the hub nut, the hub will continue to be pressed onto the wannabe axle splines()of the axle till the hub either splits or the hub just spins.
Open up your FSM to the rear axle section, and you will see what a joke that design truly is.
LG
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Unread 07-13-2013, 09:05 PM   #25
robs7
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Ok, I get it. She's tight for now and the noise that led me to this point is no longer there. LG, I'll put some one piece axles in the budget for a fall project. Thanks for the help gentleman, Rob
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Unread 07-13-2013, 10:19 PM   #26
skizriz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MoC View Post
I bet if everyone checked and re torqued the hub bolt at least 2 times a year there would be 90% less spun hubs..
I agree. I was surprised when i first checked mine. Probably Got a quarter turn out of them.
Each time i retightened mine got me less and less. After about four times, i barely turned it to the next cotter pin hole.
I wheeled it hard With 35s and never spun a hub.
I only upgraded to Mosers when i added a locker.

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78 CJ7 258 TH400/Dana18 SOA/stock YJ springs 35" General Grabbers.
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Unread 07-14-2013, 01:52 AM   #27
80cj
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The torque spec on the axle nut is 250 ft. lbs plus whatever it takes the line the cotter pin up with the castellated nut. Do not loosen the nut to line up the cotter pin
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Unread 07-14-2013, 06:39 AM   #28
WindKnot
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LumpyGrits View Post
Don't agree, as large tires and locking diffs put mucho' strain on a piss pour excuse of an axle.
LG
True enough, but within the design parameters, those axles are okay as long as they're maintained. They were a good solution to an economic and logistical problem for AMC. The engineers did not anticipate our larger wheels and the lockers. No doubt about it though, they're definitely the weak spot.
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