Wheel Bearing Noise - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 28 Old 07-05-2013, 08:51 PM Thread Starter
robs7
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Wheel Bearing Noise

Hey guys, quick question. Driving my CJ lately I have noticed a chirping sound coming from my rear passenger wheel at slow speeds. Can't really hear it above about 25 but that doesn't mean it's not there. Braking doesn't change it at all. Would this be a sign of a dry wheel bearing or one getting ready to go out? Thanks in advance! Rob

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post #2 of 28 Old 07-05-2013, 09:39 PM
MoC
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Hey Rob,

Jack up the rear end and pull / wiggle on the wheel. If you get some movement then the bearing is going.
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post #3 of 28 Old 07-06-2013, 06:12 AM
gojeepin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MoC View Post
Hey Rob,

Jack up the rear end and pull / wiggle on the wheel. If you get some movement then the bearing is going.
You can also spin the wheel and listen. A grinding noise at the hub is your wheel bearing.

Vibration? Bump steer? Wandering? Read the article (sticky) on Steering, suspension, and driveline.
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post #4 of 28 Old 07-06-2013, 11:00 AM Thread Starter
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10-4 gentleman, thank you. I will jack it up early this week and figure it out. Rob
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post #5 of 28 Old 07-12-2013, 07:55 PM Thread Starter
robs7
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Alright, just wanted to sum up what I found. I lifted the back end and could wiggle the rear wheel a bit. I took the center cap off and found the castle nut loose. Pulled the pin, snugged it up and then backed it off just a hair. Put the pin back in, took it for a drive and the noise is gone. I came across something else to ask about though. How much free play should the rear driveshaft have? With transmission in gear, I can rotate it about 1/8 turn and get a clunking sound in the transfer case. Is this normal? If not, what is it a sign of. Thanks, Rob
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post #6 of 28 Old 07-12-2013, 08:10 PM
LumpyGrits
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NEVER, EVER back off that nut!
Tighten to the next slot.
Do the same on the other side while your at it.
The torque spec for that nut is somedangthing like 240 ft/lbs.
T'case is fine, you just tak'n up all the gear slop.
LG
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post #7 of 28 Old 07-12-2013, 08:17 PM Thread Starter
robs7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LumpyGrits
NEVER, EVER back off that nut!
Tighten to the next slot.
Do the same on the other side while your at it.
The torque spec for that nut is somedangthing like 240 ft/lbs.
T'case is fine, you just tak'n up all the gear slop.
LG
I was under the understanding that too tight was bad. I remember doing the front and it needed a certain torque that wasn't very high. So the back is different? I will crank it down some more and I appreciate the heads up. Rob
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post #8 of 28 Old 07-12-2013, 08:25 PM
LumpyGrits
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Front and rear are Apples to Onions by comparison. Your doing nothing to the rear bearing when you tighten that rear axle nut.
The best thing you could do is put in a set of Moser 1 piece axles and get rid of the POS, OEM 2-piece AMC crap.
Another thing you really need to do is buy a Factory Service Manual for your Jeep. This so you don't make those types of mistakes again.
Lean HARD on the axle nut!
Good luck,
LG
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post #9 of 28 Old 07-12-2013, 08:29 PM Thread Starter
robs7
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I have the manual. Did it in the parking lot at work without it though so my mistake still. Thanks LG, I owe you one! Rob
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post #10 of 28 Old 07-12-2013, 08:34 PM
LumpyGrits
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post #11 of 28 Old 07-13-2013, 10:55 AM
texas1al
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Do as LG said, couple extra pointers - apply the parking brake hard and put the transmission in neutral. With that much torque and if the other wheel is grounded, you can actually turn over the engine through the drivetrain (not damaging or anything, but something you don't want to do nevertheless.) To get satisfactory torque, you'll probably need a section of pipe on the end of a breaker bar for added leverage. Wear eye protection. I broke a 1/2 craftsman breaker at the socket hinge doing this. Sears employee looked at me pretty strange, but gave me a new one anyway.
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post #12 of 28 Old 07-13-2013, 11:08 AM
LumpyGrits
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Sorry, don't agree with the p'brake deal at all.
Put it in first gear & low-range. Block the wheels(at least 2 of them)and get at it.
Like I said. IIRC, The torque is somedangthing like 250ft/lbs. Don't try this with a 'crescent' wrench, it WILL slip and round the nut. Check your FSM to confirm the torque this
Do it 'rite'........Get some Moser 1 piece axles and be done with it!
LG
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post #13 of 28 Old 07-13-2013, 11:29 AM Thread Starter
robs7
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Jacked up or on the floor? Does it matter? Going after a socket now to do it this evening. Rob
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post #14 of 28 Old 07-13-2013, 11:36 AM
skizriz
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Definitly go with a 3/4 drive breaker bar. Put about a 4' piece of Pipe on it and stand on it with your full weight and jump on it.
Do not loosen the nut to get the kotter pin in. Do What you need to do to get it to the next slot.
Repeat the process after driving it for a few days.

I always did it With the jeep on the ground.

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post #15 of 28 Old 07-13-2013, 11:37 AM
texas1al
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FSM says to tighten it with wheel on, vehicle on the ground, parking brake applied. To do this, you'd have to remove wheel center caps and axle dust shield. Torque is 250 ft/lbs as LG said.
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