I don't see any lift (but I just glanced at your profile, may have missed it) ... in my experience 33s (measured diameter, not what it says on the sidewall) will hit the rear fender wells every time its flexed out, with a stock suspension, off road and over most/many speed bumps and necessitate cutting larger rear wheel openings & adding either aftermarket flairs (as seen in the pictures posted) or using TJ flairs , or (I have heard) scrambler flairs.
DO NOT do the stupid long spring shackles; they do not work well and will label you as a noob.
I was able to fit undersized 32s (side wall number they measures slightly over 31") under the stock suspension, for street use, after adjusting the rear axle to center in the wheel opening.
I also hit 33s with 5.5" of compliant lift SOA. I also was able to hit 31s on the body with 2.5" soft lift springs.
I was never impressed with the T-176 (had a couple), even after switching to slightly lower internal gearing it was not great off road, or particularly strong on road. (I like a 4:1 first transmission gear much better, but can live with a 3.8:first (T-17x series or AX-15).
I would never impose on myself the poor driving characteristics/performance of trying to use a manual with 4.10 gears and 35s, you might be able to live with 33s but will likely kick yourself after every stop light/sign/speed bump.
I would say try for 32s (test fit them first, the actual size varies greatly by brand) with 2-4" or so of spring lift unless you want to trim the rear fender wells and use TJ flairs, or impose ultra stiff lumber wagon type springs on yourself and your passengers.
...a well prepped, well driven, vehicle should do well in any terrain, including the highway.
Carburetors became obsolete during the last century... do what ever it takes to get fuel injection...It makes bigger grins off road.