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Unread 06-21-2013, 09:42 PM   #1
JMcDonaldKnives
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1980 CJ7 
 
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What size driveshafts?

Anyone know what size driveshafts I'm going to need for my CJ7? 4" BDS lift, AMC258 and T177 with Dana 300 and stock axles. Going to run 33s.

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My Build Threads

1980 CJ7 4.2L T177 D300 D30 AMC20 (under construction)
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/knifeboy-jeep-build-thread-1387906/[/url]
1989 YJ 4.2L T177 NP231 D30 D35 Pro Comp 3" lift 32/1150/15 BFG AT
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/knifeboy-yj-build-thread-1720362/[/url]
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Unread 06-22-2013, 01:34 AM   #2
Spieg8
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Could probably take a ballpark guess, but I won't. A 4" lift on a CJ7 is probably going to require a T-case drop and CV driveshaft as well as some degree shims (unless you rotate the perch mounts). It's probably best to get the suspension in and the drive line angles set where they should be and then measure for the driveshaft(s) before having them made. Measure yoke center to yoke center with the suspension at a static level position, at full extension (jack up the frame so wheels are off the ground and axles are hanging only by the springs), and compressed if you can (ask a dozen friends to climb on, or I can give you contact info for my ex-wife LOL). Give the measurements to the drive shaft shop in order to get the proper length. Depending on your setup you may need long travel slip yokes (are you planning to use shackle reverse kit?). Another thing you want to decide is the diameter and thickness of the tube you need...
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Unread 06-22-2013, 04:38 AM   #3
gojeepin
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I agree with Spieg8. You need to measure... your distance and your angles. While I don't cover the length measurement, you can read about all the other aspects of a lift in the article linked in my signature block.
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Unread 06-22-2013, 08:19 AM   #4
CSP
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I disagree with the bit about a transfer case drop. That's a band-aid for keeping the stock driveshafts. If you're getting new shafts leave the transfer case alone and get a CV type rear driveshaft, which will handle the steeper angle in the rear.
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Unread 06-22-2013, 09:55 AM   #5
capt205
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Just did the 4.5 RE lift. I went with the double carden shafts. I can measure them tomorrow. I did not use the transfer case drop that came with the kit.
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Unread 06-22-2013, 10:31 AM   #6
JMcDonaldKnives
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Quote:
Originally Posted by capt205 View Post
Just did the 4.5 RE lift. I went with the double carden shafts. I can measure them tomorrow. I did not use the transfer case drop that came with the kit.
That would be great. Your measurements should be just about the same for mine. Are you running the same engine/trans combo that I am?
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My Build Threads

1980 CJ7 4.2L T177 D300 D30 AMC20 (under construction)
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/knifeboy-jeep-build-thread-1387906/[/url]
1989 YJ 4.2L T177 NP231 D30 D35 Pro Comp 3" lift 32/1150/15 BFG AT
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/knifeboy-yj-build-thread-1720362/[/url]
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Unread 06-22-2013, 03:10 PM   #7
capt205
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Yes I am...258, T176, D300, D30 front, and D44 rear.

I'm at the station today, so I'll post up the measurement tomorrow.
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Unread 06-22-2013, 06:13 PM   #8
JMcDonaldKnives
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Quote:
Originally Posted by capt205 View Post
Yes I am...258, T176, D300, D30 front, and D44 rear.

I'm at the station today, so I'll post up the measurement tomorrow.
Is there much difference between the driveshaft with a D44 compared to AMC20?
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My Build Threads

1980 CJ7 4.2L T177 D300 D30 AMC20 (under construction)
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/knifeboy-jeep-build-thread-1387906/[/url]
1989 YJ 4.2L T177 NP231 D30 D35 Pro Comp 3" lift 32/1150/15 BFG AT
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/knifeboy-yj-build-thread-1720362/[/url]
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Unread 06-23-2013, 10:56 AM   #9
Cutlass327
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Not much if any that I found. I just swapped from the 20 to the 44 and using the same driveshaft, although I didn't set the angles right (yet) so I don't know for definite if the shaft length is different. It works, but vibrates from the angle issues.

Don't guess. His measurement will be a good starting point, but don't have yours made until the lift is on and the angles are set. You only want to spend that money once, and shortening is a lot cheaper than lengthening if you got it wrong.
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1978 CJ5 258/T177/D300, '86 D30/D44 WT axles, 'glass tub windshield frame, and fenders, 31x10.5 BFG A/T, TDK galv'd frame - DD and weekend toy

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Unread 06-23-2013, 02:41 PM   #10
Spieg8
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If I remember correctly (it's been quite a while), the yoke on the Dana 44 sits about an inch or so more forward than a Model 20 (slightly shorter driveshaft). They can use the same Spicer 1310 U-joint (some people like to upgrade to a beefier model).
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Unread 06-23-2013, 04:06 PM   #11
capt205
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Mine are as follows:
measurements are center of u-joint to center or u-joint

Front 31.5"
Rear 26"

Double Carden's on both
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Unread 06-23-2013, 04:27 PM   #12
JMcDonaldKnives
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Quote:
Originally Posted by capt205 View Post
Mine are as follows:
measurements are center of u-joint to center or u-joint

Front 31.5"
Rear 26"

Double Carden's on both
so a 27" should be just about perfect for mine in the rear and a 31" in the front. Thanks. But I will double check before I order anything.
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Director of Texas Jeeps Corpus Christi Chapter
[url]https://www.facebook.com/groups/441093812678945/[/url]

My Build Threads

1980 CJ7 4.2L T177 D300 D30 AMC20 (under construction)
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/knifeboy-jeep-build-thread-1387906/[/url]
1989 YJ 4.2L T177 NP231 D30 D35 Pro Comp 3" lift 32/1150/15 BFG AT
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/knifeboy-yj-build-thread-1720362/[/url]
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