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Unread 01-20-2002, 09:37 PM   #16
Knucklehead
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1973 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Virginia Beach, VA
Posts: 184
Hey DarkOne, just trying to get a rise out of the members tonight. A lot less interaction here than I'd expect from a bunch of Jeep fanatics. I pissed FishMan, I mean RiverTrout, off tonight when I challenged the performance potential of his 258! The question is why eat a hotdog with mustard when you can have a chili and cheese dog for the same price?
Just wondering, what do you all have? I run a '73 titled CJ-5. '78 frame, 4" springs, fiberglass tub, full cage tied to the frame, and racing buckets mounted to the cage. Built chevy 350, np-435 trans mated to a tera-low geared Dana 20. Dana 44 with 4.27s and Detroit in rear, open Dana 30 in front. 15/35-15 Swampers keep in moving forward in the mud.

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Ty
'45 Ford GPW; '73 CJ5, 350/NP435/D20 w/Terlow gears, locked D30/D44; '13 CJ8, 304/T150/D20/D30/AMC20 w/locker and limited slip (T18 and Teralow gears in future); '88 Dodge RC, 360/NP435/NP205/D60s
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Unread 01-20-2002, 09:42 PM   #17
2001gtboy
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im not sure where i was grown, last time i checked i wasn't a test tube baby. but yes im un a slow ariving budget. oh yeah i do have locking hubs that the other modsi have. my late stepfather put in locking hubs. juist our of curiousity. what would happen if i didn't lock my hubs and put the car into 4wd? would it just be 2wheel drive or what?
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[url="http://www.rusty.stangnet.com"] CJ2A Project"[/url]
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Unread 01-20-2002, 09:51 PM   #18
Darko
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I was planning on swapping a 360 in my CJ, but the parts are way too expensive, expecially FI, and well... the parts are too damn expensive. I thought about a Chevy 350, but I came to the conclusion of a Ford 302. I can do that swap without a problem, I don't even need adapters, it bolts right up to a T-176 I have. Cheapest V8 swap with fuelinjection.

If the hubs aren't locked, they are disconnected from the axles, so the wheels spin independantly on the wheel bearings, when you lock the hub you force the wheel and axle to spin at the same time. If you have the front hubs unlocked and you are in 4WD, You will only have the rear two tires spinning, and the front two will be disconnected.

The thing that pisses me off about this forum, well actually all the Jeep forums, is that everyone thinks they know everything and people for some reason think there is only one way to do something, and there is only 1 logic to fixing something.
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Found a 85 CJ7 tub in good shape with
minimal rust. The resto continues....
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Unread 01-20-2002, 09:54 PM   #19
Knucklehead
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The front running gear would turn all it's components out to the axle stub shafts but wouldn't put power to the hub because the hub was unlocked. I don't recommend doing this for extended periods because there is no bearing in the locking hub mechanism where the coupling gear rides.
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Ty
'45 Ford GPW; '73 CJ5, 350/NP435/D20 w/Terlow gears, locked D30/D44; '13 CJ8, 304/T150/D20/D30/AMC20 w/locker and limited slip (T18 and Teralow gears in future); '88 Dodge RC, 360/NP435/NP205/D60s
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Unread 01-20-2002, 10:00 PM   #20
2001gtboy
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thats what i figured, i was just testing my knowledge in the area. so im guessing about a 4 to 6 inch lift with 33 inch tires. should i get boggers or what?
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[url="http://www.missbehavin.stangnet.com"] Behavin"[/url]
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[url="http://www.rusty.stangnet.com"] CJ2A Project"[/url]
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Unread 01-20-2002, 10:03 PM   #21
Knucklehead
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DarkO,
I've never been interested in Fords probably because the parts don't interchange as easily across the engine families as AMCs, Chevys, or Dodges. Too many peculararities ie, Clevlands, Windors, Modifieds etc and difference between 302 and 351. Onr know what they say about opinions being likes A-holes, everyones go one! I'm not exception. I do love Jeeps first though and it all started for me with my stock '45 GPW.
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Ty
'45 Ford GPW; '73 CJ5, 350/NP435/D20 w/Terlow gears, locked D30/D44; '13 CJ8, 304/T150/D20/D30/AMC20 w/locker and limited slip (T18 and Teralow gears in future); '88 Dodge RC, 360/NP435/NP205/D60s
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Unread 01-20-2002, 10:13 PM   #22
Knucklehead
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I haven't seen any 6" lifts for CJs especially a 2A. Try the tires and if they hit too much then order springs. I wouldn't go more than 2 1/2" with that short wheelbase and long engine/trans length. Driveshaft angle should be a concern althought the Dana 18 does make for better driveshaft angles with the offset rear differential and shorter tranfers case length. Be conservative! Boggers are too expensive. TSL Swampers are a little cheaper and there are lots more tires to choice from. Pick up a magazine and shop around.
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Ty
'45 Ford GPW; '73 CJ5, 350/NP435/D20 w/Terlow gears, locked D30/D44; '13 CJ8, 304/T150/D20/D30/AMC20 w/locker and limited slip (T18 and Teralow gears in future); '88 Dodge RC, 360/NP435/NP205/D60s
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Unread 01-20-2002, 10:17 PM   #23
2001gtboy
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hmmmm, ok so how about 4 inches? it may already be lifted, but im not sure, check out my site and tell me what ya think. id like a lift for sure, but what am i looking at 33 inch wise?
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[url="http://www.missbehavin.stangnet.com"] Behavin"[/url]
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[url="http://www.rusty.stangnet.com"] CJ2A Project"[/url]
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Unread 01-20-2002, 10:31 PM   #24
Knucklehead
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It looks like a stock spring pack with thin leaves, I would say not lifted. I'm happy for you and only wish that you could have worked on it with your stepdad. It's got great potential so take your time doing it right. The T-90/Dana 18 combo will live behind the V-8 if you treat them nicely although I'd expect you to break the T-90 eventually. Again, 2 1/2" lift will do you for 33s.
Good luck with that Jeep, enjoy!
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Ty
'45 Ford GPW; '73 CJ5, 350/NP435/D20 w/Terlow gears, locked D30/D44; '13 CJ8, 304/T150/D20/D30/AMC20 w/locker and limited slip (T18 and Teralow gears in future); '88 Dodge RC, 360/NP435/NP205/D60s
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Unread 01-21-2002, 01:41 PM   #25
2001gtboy
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thank you, my late stepfather really wanted to start on it, but after turning ill once he could no longer work and eventually went into debt. fortunatly he passed a quick and painless death in the comfort of a hospital bed with my mother and i next to him, i promised him id run it once again. so im very determined with this project, so all of your help has been ever so great! i told myself to get used to my stang's current speed, and throw in money into my jeep, but i need a job which im waiting for responces now About the T 90, when it breaks what should i do? get it fixed or find a different tranny? also, how can i check if all of the components on the jeep are working? the axles turn the tranny i guess works, im not sure. i bought a book on overhauling 289s, and am looking for one on trannies.
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[url="http://www.missbehavin.stangnet.com"] Behavin"[/url]
My 2001 Mustang GT daily driver

[url="http://www.rusty.stangnet.com"] CJ2A Project"[/url]
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Unread 01-21-2002, 03:22 PM   #26
Knucklehead
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You have a lot of choices if you are willing to use an adapter between the trans and transfer case. Call Advance Adapters to get a catalog. If your components have uncontaminated gear lube in them (no water or brown stuff) and no obvious metal chips laying in the bottoms of the housings then I'd run them as is. Good luck. James Newsome in Statesboro, GA has quite a few old Jeeps for parts. Look his name up in the white pages and give him a call if you need some parts.

Ty
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Ty
'45 Ford GPW; '73 CJ5, 350/NP435/D20 w/Terlow gears, locked D30/D44; '13 CJ8, 304/T150/D20/D30/AMC20 w/locker and limited slip (T18 and Teralow gears in future); '88 Dodge RC, 360/NP435/NP205/D60s
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Unread 01-21-2002, 08:18 PM   #27
2001gtboy
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does advanced adapter have a site by any chance or do you have their number?
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[url="http://www.missbehavin.stangnet.com"] Behavin"[/url]
My 2001 Mustang GT daily driver

[url="http://www.rusty.stangnet.com"] CJ2A Project"[/url]
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Unread 01-21-2002, 10:12 PM   #28
Darko
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either www.advanceadapters.com
or www.advancedadapters.com

Go to www.google.com and do a search for novak converstions, they are cheapter that AA and have really great technical support.
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Found a 85 CJ7 tub in good shape with
minimal rust. The resto continues....
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Unread 01-22-2002, 12:08 AM   #29
2001gtboy
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ill check it out, now what exactly would i need an adpter for? to allowed the drive shaft to stay in touch with the rear dif? also, can anyone tell me/show me what ineed to weld/inforce and how?
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[url="http://www.missbehavin.stangnet.com"] Behavin"[/url]
My 2001 Mustang GT daily driver

[url="http://www.rusty.stangnet.com"] CJ2A Project"[/url]
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Unread 01-24-2002, 05:19 PM   #30
2001gtboy
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anyone?
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[url="http://www.missbehavin.stangnet.com"] Behavin"[/url]
My 2001 Mustang GT daily driver

[url="http://www.rusty.stangnet.com"] CJ2A Project"[/url]
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