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Unread 09-05-2011, 07:31 PM   #1
MosesYJ
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1987 YJ Wrangler 
 
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Location: bishopville, maryland
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What do you guys think?

ok guys i have a yj, but my little brother just bougth a 67' cj wit the dauntless v6 for 150 bucks, shes got some rust and is gonna need new paint some new floorboards but the price was right and hopefully we can get it runnin for my little brother , tell me what ya think , the running gear is good the body is rough, the frame is pretty solid, im definetly gonna be sandblastin but hopefully i can get this thing on the road for my brother

http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/...mes009-1-1.jpg


http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/...ndjames013.jpg

http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/...ndjames010.jpg

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Unread 09-05-2011, 07:39 PM   #2
poppatello
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Easy fix. Great deal!!!
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Unread 09-05-2011, 07:47 PM   #3
MosesYJ
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the guy gave me a couple of electronic fuel pumps, dont these cj's have manual fuel pumps, and is this a good upgrade or should i buy a mechanical one
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Unread 09-05-2011, 08:03 PM   #4
brownbagg
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yes they have mecahnical pumps. that a damn good deal, and the v6 is a damn good motor
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Unread 09-05-2011, 08:10 PM   #5
FLynes
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brownbagg View Post
yes they have mecahnical pumps. that a damn good deal, and the v6 is a damn good motor
That's the first intelligent thing you've written on this site!

Fred
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Unread 09-06-2011, 05:35 PM   #6
MosesYJ
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picked it up today heres some pics , shes got long tube headers,


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Unread 09-06-2011, 08:09 PM   #7
jeepdaddy2000
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Engine:
New cap, rotor, plugs, points, and condenser. Be sure to recheck the timing when your done setting the dwell. A great upgrade is an HEI ignition from a 76 Apollo with the 231 ODDFIRE. Speaking of the oddfire, do some research on the engine, as it has some ignition quirks you should be aware of.
Your CJ has an alternator upgrade. That is a good thing, however, I would dump the cheesy air cleaner for a larger, fully enclosed unit.
Most of this can be done with the body removed for easier access, however, I would solve any steering issues before pulling it.

It is a 12 volt system. Your currently running a delco internally regulated alternator, which isn't stock. It is however, a cheaper, and in my opinion, better replacement.
Back to your timing, Insure your rotor is under the #1 tower on the cap. While it will run if it isn't, it won't be right and you can have some frustrating times trying to sort out weak cylinders and misses.
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Unread 09-06-2011, 08:17 PM   #8
MosesYJ
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thanks thats just the stuff i was tryin to ask u guys
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Unread 09-07-2011, 05:26 AM   #9
BioTex
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What a great find! I really like those oddfire engines in a jeep.

Since it has been sitting a while, I would change the oil and filter. Remove the plugs and put a little oil in each cylinder. Pull the distributor and spin the oil pump with a drill motor. Note that you get oil pressure. You will also feel it in the speed of the drill motor.

Rotate the engine by hand CW about a quarter turn, and then run the drill some more.

Repeat the procedure until you have rotated the engine completely for a couple of turns.

Do all this just before you try to start the engine for the first time, and you won't cause any damage due to dry starts.

The only downside to this is that if you are not proficient at setting timing, it can be harder to start up the first time since the distributor was removed.

A way arount this is to set the engine on TDC compression before you remove the distributor, and scribe a line where the housing is oriented, and note the rotor position.

Now when you put it back, it will be close enough to start if you reset to TDC after you are done.
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Unread 09-07-2011, 06:43 AM   #10
twoleos617
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BioTex View Post
I would change the oil and filter. Remove the plugs and put a little oil in each cylinder.
heard of doing this pleanty of times but never asked...
how much oil are you talking about?


GREAT find Moses!
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Unread 09-07-2011, 10:16 AM   #11
BioTex
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twoleos617 View Post
heard of doing this pleanty of times but never asked...
how much oil are you talking about?


GREAT find Moses!
I use marvel mystery oil, and about 1 tbl. sp.
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'85 CJ7, BDS 4" lift, 1" Body lift, 33x12.5, Shrockworks Sliders, 304 V8 with RV cam., T-176, D300, Dana 30, AMC 20.
1986 CJ10-A SD-33 Diesel/727/np208
1971 800B with 345/T-19
06' TJ Rubicon, 4" R.C. springs, BFG/AT 35s M.C. 6" fenders, rockers and surrounds, Currie front & rear adj. tracbars, tattons DC rear shaft, adj. upper - lower CA's. Bilstein 5100's
YJ Buggy Build Current project. Stroker/FI ?
1990 MJ Comanche 4.0L AX15/np231
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Unread 09-07-2011, 12:50 PM   #12
scrappycj5
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I sprayed slick50 down in the cylinders of my 304 before I started it. Plus I worked the crankshaft bolt back and for slowly untill I had nice smooth revolutions, before I cranked it. That was after it sat for about 6 years.
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Unread 09-07-2011, 01:10 PM   #13
MosesYJ
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Any idea what the gap on the points should be i cant find it anywhere
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Unread 09-07-2011, 01:28 PM   #14
Matt1981CJ7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MosesYJ View Post
Any idea what the gap on the points should be i cant find it anywhere
A quick Google search came up with .016" for a '69 225 V6 with the Prestolite distributor.

I didn't find anything specific for a '67, but I suspect it's the same.

Matt
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Unread 09-07-2011, 01:45 PM   #15
FLynes
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt1881CJ7 View Post
A quick Google search came up with .016" for a '69 225 V6 with the Prestolite distributor.

I didn't find anything specific for a '67, but I suspect it's the same.

Matt
It is.

I got this from a Buick website:

Engine or Car Model: 1967 6-225 Except CA.

Spark Plug Type (AC): 44S

Spark Plug Gap: .035

Point Gap: .016 - Turn adjusting screw in Clockwise until engine misfires, then turn screw out 1/2 turn

Dwell Angle: 30

Firing Order: 165432

Ignition Timing (BTDC or Mark): 5°

Hot Idle - Std Trans/Auto Trans: 550/550D

Fred
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Black Wellington Vinyl Bench Seats
258 I-6 1bbl
T-150 3-Speed
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