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Unread 07-30-2013, 05:15 PM   #13411
VooDoo2
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1978 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Brisbane, Australia
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Not a fan of solder on terminals designed to be crimped. Ive seen more than a few go brittle and the wires snap. With a decent crimp they seem to last longer especially over corrugations and off road. Maybe its just me. (i still solder joins)

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Unread 07-30-2013, 05:46 PM   #13412
adman02
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1979 CJ7 
 
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Location: Durham, NC
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Had my exhaust pipe re-routed from exiting straight out the back to out the driver's side behind the rear wheel. Best. Upgrade. Ever. I no longer smell like an oily rag after a ride in the jeep (I have a little blow-by).
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Unread 07-30-2013, 07:52 PM   #13413
Alex77cj7
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1977 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Lafayette, Louisiana
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Welded on my mounts to outboard my springs. Im almost ready to start putting in the axles. Just waiting on some last minute parts.

image-2992872963.jpg



image-1390666072.jpg
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Unread 07-30-2013, 08:44 PM   #13414
79CJ7dude
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alex77cj7
High horsepower 304 + brand new centerforce II clutch + mud tires + stock gears = bye bye driveshaft.
That sucks
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Unread 07-30-2013, 08:45 PM   #13415
dangjeep
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1984 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Maricopa, Arizona
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Just replaced my windshield washer pump and added a new bikini top to my ride. After all it is my daily driver now. My soft top was taking a beating with no doors or side windows on. In a few months I'm gonna need to replace the tires. ;(
I'm running BFG BAJA T/A's, in my opinion this is the best tire ever. I got them used and have put a lot of miles on them. Imagine if you will, the oldest tire of the four is from 2001 and shows no signs of dry rot....

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84 CJ7-258-T5-D300-4.10 gears 33" tires Nutter Bypassed Team Rushed
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Unread 07-30-2013, 08:45 PM   #13416
Alex77cj7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 79CJ7dude

That sucks
Yeah. But I figured instead of getting2 new driveshafts I'd just install my axles while I'm at it and just get one.
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Unread 07-31-2013, 02:03 PM   #13417
agear
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 82JeepCJ7 View Post
The key to any solder joint is flux. That stuff is amazing.
Cool. Yeah, I used some. The reason for the fail the 1st time was because I left the heat shrink off and the solder ran down the spade terminal and prevented me from being able to get the terminal on the switch.

"Not a fan of solder on terminals designed to be crimped. Ive seen more than a few go brittle and the wires snap. With a decent crimp they seem to last longer especially over corrugations and off road. Maybe its just me. (i still solder joins)"

I wasn't aware of that. Thanks. I thought about just doing a crimp and leaving because it would be easy enough to diagnose if it wasn't making connection but I decided I wanted to avoid having to fix. But anyway thanks for the info.
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1984 jeep cj7, 258 I6, rebuilt T176,rebuilt Dana 300, amc 20 , dana 30, 4.10's Trac-lok in rear , 4.10's detroit soft locker in dana 30, 2.5 inch bds suspension lift, 1 inch polyurethan body mount lift. Line ex. weber carburetor. factory tach. factory clock ,oem replacement speedomter cluster, and oil pressure gauge, factory volt gauge.
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Unread 07-31-2013, 04:00 PM   #13418
RARECJ8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 82JeepCJ7 View Post
A battery flopping around is one of my worst nightmares in a roll over. So I built this.


many organized runs have a tech inspection and battery clamp down is on the list. i'm amazed how many drives hope to pass using a bungee or ratchet strap. no trail for you, LOL.
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Unread 07-31-2013, 05:09 PM   #13419
83vert
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Those battery clamps are sweet^^^^^^^
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Unread 07-31-2013, 06:25 PM   #13420
skizriz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 82JeepCJ7 View Post
A battery flopping around is one of my worst nightmares in a roll over. So I built this.

Seeing your post got me to thinking. Usually that is a dangerous thing.
When I re-built the Jeep,I just put in a stock battery tray, with the clamshell clamp at the bottom. While fine for the road, I have been running harder and harder trails. Mostly rocks. I realized I never did anything to make my battery more secure. Luckily it hadn't popped out yet.
I made a mounting plate for the firewall, bent up some strap, drilled some holes, and strapped it in more secure.
It started raining before I finished. I still need to do some welding on it, a little final bending, and painting.
It should shore it up nicely when it's finished.
Thanks for the idea.

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78 CJ7 258 TH400/Dana18 SOA/stock YJ springs 35" General Grabbers.
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Unread 07-31-2013, 06:31 PM   #13421
skizriz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alex77cj7 View Post
Welded on my mounts to outboard my springs. Im almost ready to start putting in the axles. Just waiting on some last minute parts.

Attachment 651820


I'd be making those mounts out of something A LOT beefier than 1/8 walled box tubing. I also would have gussets running the full height of the frame rails.
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Unread 07-31-2013, 06:46 PM   #13422
jeepwhore
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skizriz

I'd be making those mounts out of something A LOT beefier than 1/8 walled box tubing. I also would have gussets running the full height of the frame rails.
X2.

My springs are only outboarded 3/4 of an inch but mine are made of 1/4" flat bar and angle iron......and I may still add a gusset even though half the spring still sits under the frame.



image-2076646625.jpg



image-3080540353.jpg



I'd be worried the way yours are will just cause the frame to squeeze shut or the thin metal edge will just shear through the side wall of the frame.
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Unread 07-31-2013, 06:56 PM   #13423
82JeepCJ7
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When I went through technical training in the Army, I went through a course on properly soldering. In the end we were certified to solder for NASA.

One of the biggest things they looked for was how far up the wire the solder wicked during a connection. There could not be any solder within 1/16" from the insulation. Application of a clip on heat sink kept the heat from traveling up the wire.

We used heat sinks like these.
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Unread 07-31-2013, 08:26 PM   #13424
boojeep
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1979 CJ5 
 
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Checked the new sender while grounded to the jeep and pickup wire.Went into garage to prepare for tank reinstall, tripped over the workmate[has tank resting on it]and landed on the floor in a heap. Hopefully i only bruised my wrist when i landed on/against my portable air compressor. The new sender was in my left hand.Now i need to double check everything again.I don't think anything is messed up but.................
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Unread 08-01-2013, 01:35 PM   #13425
agear
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 82JeepCJ7 View Post
When I went through technical training in the Army, I went through a course on properly soldering. In the end we were certified to solder for NASA.

One of the biggest things they looked for was how far up the wire the solder wicked during a connection. There could not be any solder within 1/16" from the insulation. Application of a clip on heat sink kept the heat from traveling up the wire.

We used heat sinks like these.
Very cool. Good to know. Yeah, I lost my heat sink. Have to get another craftsman kit with the pick tool thing that comes with the heat sink.

Hey while we're on the subject. My auto tech text book says heat the wire on opposite side of solder to prevent a cold solder. Do you do this ? Reason I ask is because I've melted the insulation before waiting for it to get hot enough to melt the solder using this method.
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1984 jeep cj7, 258 I6, rebuilt T176,rebuilt Dana 300, amc 20 , dana 30, 4.10's Trac-lok in rear , 4.10's detroit soft locker in dana 30, 2.5 inch bds suspension lift, 1 inch polyurethan body mount lift. Line ex. weber carburetor. factory tach. factory clock ,oem replacement speedomter cluster, and oil pressure gauge, factory volt gauge.
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