What did you do to your CJ today? - Page 895 - JeepForum.com

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post #13411 of 20115 Old 07-30-2013, 05:15 PM
VooDoo2
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1978 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Brisbane
Posts: 692
Not a fan of solder on terminals designed to be crimped. Ive seen more than a few go brittle and the wires snap. With a decent crimp they seem to last longer especially over corrugations and off road. Maybe its just me. (i still solder joins)

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post #13412 of 20115 Old 07-30-2013, 05:46 PM
adman02
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1979 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Durham, NC
Posts: 358
Had my exhaust pipe re-routed from exiting straight out the back to out the driver's side behind the rear wheel. Best. Upgrade. Ever. I no longer smell like an oily rag after a ride in the jeep (I have a little blow-by).
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post #13413 of 20115 Old 07-30-2013, 07:52 PM
Alex77cj7
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1977 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Lafayette
Posts: 1,076
Welded on my mounts to outboard my springs. Im almost ready to start putting in the axles. Just waiting on some last minute parts.

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Build: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/my-77-cj7-project-sleeping-beauty-1442479/#post14508634
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post #13414 of 20115 Old 07-30-2013, 08:44 PM
79CJ7dude
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1979 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 70
Quote:
Originally Posted by Alex77cj7
High horsepower 304 + brand new centerforce II clutch + mud tires + stock gears = bye bye driveshaft.
That sucks
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post #13415 of 20115 Old 07-30-2013, 08:45 PM
dangjeep
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1984 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Maricopa
Posts: 116
Just replaced my windshield washer pump and added a new bikini top to my ride. After all it is my daily driver now. My soft top was taking a beating with no doors or side windows on. In a few months I'm gonna need to replace the tires. ;(
I'm running BFG BAJA T/A's, in my opinion this is the best tire ever. I got them used and have put a lot of miles on them. Imagine if you will, the oldest tire of the four is from 2001 and shows no signs of dry rot....

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dang

84 CJ7-258-T5-D300-4.10 gears 33" tires Nutter Bypassed Team Rushed
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post #13416 of 20115 Old 07-30-2013, 08:45 PM
Alex77cj7
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1977 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Lafayette
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 79CJ7dude

That sucks
Yeah. But I figured instead of getting2 new driveshafts I'd just install my axles while I'm at it and just get one.

Build: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/my-77-cj7-project-sleeping-beauty-1442479/#post14508634
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post #13417 of 20115 Old 07-31-2013, 02:03 PM
agear
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1984 CJ7 
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: norfolk
Posts: 2,204
Quote:
Originally Posted by 82JeepCJ7 View Post
The key to any solder joint is flux. That stuff is amazing.
Cool. Yeah, I used some. The reason for the fail the 1st time was because I left the heat shrink off and the solder ran down the spade terminal and prevented me from being able to get the terminal on the switch.

"Not a fan of solder on terminals designed to be crimped. Ive seen more than a few go brittle and the wires snap. With a decent crimp they seem to last longer especially over corrugations and off road. Maybe its just me. (i still solder joins)"

I wasn't aware of that. Thanks. I thought about just doing a crimp and leaving because it would be easy enough to diagnose if it wasn't making connection but I decided I wanted to avoid having to fix. But anyway thanks for the info.

1984 jeep cj7, 258 I6, rebuilt T176,rebuilt Dana 300, amc 20 , dana 30, 4.10's Trac-lok in rear , 4.10's detroit soft locker in dana 30, 2.5 inch bds suspension lift, 1 inch polyurethan body mount lift. Line ex. weber carburetor. factory tach. factory clock ,oem replacement speedomter cluster, and oil pressure gauge, factory volt gauge.
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post #13418 of 20115 Old 07-31-2013, 04:00 PM
RARECJ8
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1981 CJ8 
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Reno/Tahoe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 82JeepCJ7 View Post
A battery flopping around is one of my worst nightmares in a roll over. So I built this.


many organized runs have a tech inspection and battery clamp down is on the list. i'm amazed how many drives hope to pass using a bungee or ratchet strap. no trail for you, LOL.

Look it's a 4.6!
Life member BRC
Cal4Wheel. ECV 3697
www.hillsangels4x4.com
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post #13419 of 20115 Old 07-31-2013, 05:09 PM
83vert
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1982 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: New York
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Those battery clamps are sweet^^^^^^^

I am in deep
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/how-did-happen-rebuild-1113470/
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post #13420 of 20115 Old 07-31-2013, 06:25 PM
skizriz
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1978 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Scottdale
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 82JeepCJ7 View Post
A battery flopping around is one of my worst nightmares in a roll over. So I built this.

Seeing your post got me to thinking. Usually that is a dangerous thing.
When I re-built the Jeep,I just put in a stock battery tray, with the clamshell clamp at the bottom. While fine for the road, I have been running harder and harder trails. Mostly rocks. I realized I never did anything to make my battery more secure. Luckily it hadn't popped out yet.
I made a mounting plate for the firewall, bent up some strap, drilled some holes, and strapped it in more secure.
It started raining before I finished. I still need to do some welding on it, a little final bending, and painting.
It should shore it up nicely when it's finished.
Thanks for the idea.


78 CJ7.. 258.. TH400/Dana18.. SOA/stock YJ springs.. 35" General Grabbers.. Waggy 44s.. 4.88 gears...Spartan/Lockright...Fiberglass front to rear
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post #13421 of 20115 Old 07-31-2013, 06:31 PM
skizriz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alex77cj7 View Post
Welded on my mounts to outboard my springs. Im almost ready to start putting in the axles. Just waiting on some last minute parts.

Attachment 651820


I'd be making those mounts out of something A LOT beefier than 1/8 walled box tubing. I also would have gussets running the full height of the frame rails.

78 CJ7.. 258.. TH400/Dana18.. SOA/stock YJ springs.. 35" General Grabbers.. Waggy 44s.. 4.88 gears...Spartan/Lockright...Fiberglass front to rear
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post #13422 of 20115 Old 07-31-2013, 06:46 PM
jeepwhore
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1984 CJ7 
 
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Location: Kamloops
Posts: 3,951
Quote:
Originally Posted by skizriz

I'd be making those mounts out of something A LOT beefier than 1/8 walled box tubing. I also would have gussets running the full height of the frame rails.
X2.

My springs are only outboarded 3/4 of an inch but mine are made of 1/4" flat bar and angle iron......and I may still add a gusset even though half the spring still sits under the frame.



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I'd be worried the way yours are will just cause the frame to squeeze shut or the thin metal edge will just shear through the side wall of the frame.

'84 CJ-7: Yota axles (spartan locked front, e-locked rear) 4" BDS, 1" Daystar & 3/8" shackle lifts, 35" X-Terrains on steelies, YJ Tub & family roll bar, heater blower upgrade, 4.2L w/MC2100 & Team Rush, Warn 8274. Rebuilt 4.2/4.0 hybrid, AX15 and twin sticks/clocking ring waiting to go in.

The advertised position for a topless, dirty jeep girl has been filled......by my wife. Thanks to all that applied.
<------------and yes, that is her.
:-D
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post #13423 of 20115 Old 07-31-2013, 06:56 PM
82JeepCJ7
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Location: Marysville, WA
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When I went through technical training in the Army, I went through a course on properly soldering. In the end we were certified to solder for NASA.

One of the biggest things they looked for was how far up the wire the solder wicked during a connection. There could not be any solder within 1/16" from the insulation. Application of a clip on heat sink kept the heat from traveling up the wire.

We used heat sinks like these.

Beat it to fit, paint it to match!

Wheel, Wrench, Repeat.
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post #13424 of 20115 Old 07-31-2013, 08:26 PM
boojeep
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1979 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: rochester
Posts: 319
Checked the new sender while grounded to the jeep and pickup wire.Went into garage to prepare for tank reinstall, tripped over the workmate[has tank resting on it]and landed on the floor in a heap. Hopefully i only bruised my wrist when i landed on/against my portable air compressor. The new sender was in my left hand.Now i need to double check everything again.I don't think anything is messed up but.................
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post #13425 of 20115 Old 08-01-2013, 01:35 PM
agear
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1984 CJ7 
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: norfolk
Posts: 2,204
Quote:
Originally Posted by 82JeepCJ7 View Post
When I went through technical training in the Army, I went through a course on properly soldering. In the end we were certified to solder for NASA.

One of the biggest things they looked for was how far up the wire the solder wicked during a connection. There could not be any solder within 1/16" from the insulation. Application of a clip on heat sink kept the heat from traveling up the wire.

We used heat sinks like these.
Very cool. Good to know. Yeah, I lost my heat sink. Have to get another craftsman kit with the pick tool thing that comes with the heat sink.

Hey while we're on the subject. My auto tech text book says heat the wire on opposite side of solder to prevent a cold solder. Do you do this ? Reason I ask is because I've melted the insulation before waiting for it to get hot enough to melt the solder using this method.

1984 jeep cj7, 258 I6, rebuilt T176,rebuilt Dana 300, amc 20 , dana 30, 4.10's Trac-lok in rear , 4.10's detroit soft locker in dana 30, 2.5 inch bds suspension lift, 1 inch polyurethan body mount lift. Line ex. weber carburetor. factory tach. factory clock ,oem replacement speedomter cluster, and oil pressure gauge, factory volt gauge.
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