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post #12886 of Old 05-25-2013, 08:01 AM
titomars
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1981 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Santa Rosa
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GlennLever View Post

Personally I do not think it makes a difference how you mount it, if it did those instructions would be included when you purchased a new coil which I have never seen.

Mount it however it is convenient.
I agree with you Glenn. In all my wanderings and racing I have mounted mine where it fits best and never had a problem. I have never seen anyone else have a problem also.
there was (in the 80's) a coil that had to be mounted "up" it stated in the instructions supplied. It was a Mallory Pro Master the square coil.


1981 Jeep CJ7 4.0 HO, AX-15, D300, D30, D44, SOA
1977 Chevrolet C/10 step side 454 TH400 3.73 posi
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post #12887 of Old 05-25-2013, 08:28 AM
83vert
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1982 CJ7 
 
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Location: New York
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Msd suggests that there coils be mounted vertica

I am in deep
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/how-did-happen-rebuild-1113470/
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post #12888 of Old 05-25-2013, 08:30 AM
83vert
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 83vert
msd suggests that there coils be mounted vertica


image-3115600206.jpg

I am in deep
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/how-did-happen-rebuild-1113470/
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post #12889 of Old 05-25-2013, 09:17 AM
GlennLever
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1984 CJ7 
 
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Location: Rochester
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Thanks you!

Forum update
This was passed to me and comes from the MSD Technical forum http://www.msdignition.com/forum/showthread.php?t=394
"MSD recommends mounting the Blaster 2 Coil in the vertical position so that the internal winding is completely covered with oil. Mounting the coil horizontally does not allow the oil within the coil to sufficiently transfer the heat out of the coil."

I stand corrected, MSD recommends that the Blaster two be mounted vertical. That being said, it is clear that some automotive manufactures produced coils that could be mounted either way.

I will leave my blaster II mounted as is because the engine only runs for short periods of time (8.2 seconds in the quarter, warm up in the pits, it is towed to the line and towed back to the pits)


Glenn R. Lever
Rochester, New York 14617-2012
My Web Site http://www.lever-family-racing.com

My restoration thread here on the Jeep forum
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/cj...build-1269301/
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post #12890 of Old 05-25-2013, 10:28 AM
WSS
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Location: Chino
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VooDoo2 View Post
I spent 3hrs today getting the glue the PO used on the carpet off the inside of the tub. Ive now found my no#1 most hated job in the world.
Awful job, but it has to be removed. I was lucky on mine, all it took was some goof off and occasionally some lacquer thinner. A job that is actually worse is when you spray tub liner were it shouldn't be and don't notice it for a day. LOL

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post #12891 of Old 05-25-2013, 01:08 PM
jacques25150
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1982 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Pulversheim, Alsace
Posts: 293
bad trip

wednesday, when i return from my job, at 5 kms from my home, my clutch dont want made his job;
I decide to go to my favorite garage and when I was arrived: nothing more in rear or forward direction because all bolts of gear box are going out and engine and gear box are disconected
very bad trip!!!!!
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post #12892 of Old 05-25-2013, 02:01 PM
nshefbuch
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1982 CJ7 
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: piqua
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Had to redo my intake gaskets from the aluminum intake swap on my 360. Found a stock baffle and had to cut and modify it. Then drill and tap the bottom of intake for it. Cut the baffle down so it would clear the oil valley Pan gasket. Bought the right stuff for front and rear seals. Long couple days cause I had to do it twice. Rear seal wasn't good enough and leaked after first attempt. Got it now all buttoned up


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CJ7/SOA YJ leaf/5.3LS/t18a/d300 clock/37"Pitbull Rockers/H1's/14 bolt/d44 ARB 4.10 High Steer
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post #12893 of Old 05-25-2013, 03:34 PM
WSS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jacques25150 View Post
wednesday, when i return from my job, at 5 kms from my home, my clutch dont want made his job;
I decide to go to my favorite garage and when I was arrived: nothing more in rear or forward direction because all bolts of gear box are going out and engine and gear box are disconected
very bad trip!!!!!
OUCH! The engine bolts broke from the transmission?
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post #12894 of Old 05-25-2013, 05:22 PM
vivimus
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Location: Pensacola
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Oil change and radiator flush. Tomorrow, pulling more roots. It is a utility vehicle after all.

Every normal man must be tempted, at times, to spit on his hands, hoist the black flag, and begin slitting throats.
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post #12895 of Old 05-25-2013, 06:13 PM
Havasu Living
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Making some changes to the 5.0 swap from 4 years ago. Going dual exhaust, waiting on the shorty headers and then have to re-route the fuel system and changing the motor mounts.

80 CJ7 5.0 Dual Exhaust, T176, D300, D30 w/ true trac, AMC 20 w/ ARB 4.56 gears, York OBA, Hydroboost
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post #12896 of Old 05-25-2013, 06:19 PM
skizriz
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Got the Moser axles and Lock Right installed in the rear. Everything was pretty straight forward, no surprises. A lot of hard work though.Took me a full day.
Tomorrow I'll get to try everything out.






78 CJ7.. 258.. TH400/Dana18.. SOA/stock YJ springs.. 35" General Grabbers.. Waggy 44s.. 4.88 gears...Spartan/Lockright...Fiberglass front to rear
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post #12897 of Old 05-25-2013, 08:25 PM
agear
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1984 CJ7 
 
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Location: norfolk
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Today I found out that I couldn't get into low range because the shifter was hitting the tunnel cover and boot so I cut the tunnel cover and moved the boot up some and now I have 4 low. It's great ! I also adjusted my rear drum brakes. This posed some questions because you can't really go by the feel of spinning the tire to see how it's adjusted due to the fact that it turns both axles and is hard to turn. My expert b.i.l. came over. I learned you can adjust them a little bit loose and since they're self adjusting brakes you can just back up several times and stop and they will adjust themselves where they need to be . Awesome ! So we just adjusted them so the drum was touching/sliding over the shoes when installing but when removing the drum you shouldn't have to work it side to side to get it off. I also installed the shifter bushing and washer on my dana 300 down by the shift rails. My drivers side brake light was not working. The terminal on the tail light and on the light bulb were wore down so I put in a new bulb and it works great now. Successful weekend so far.Tomorrow I'm going to install my front driveshaft and max out my articulation on my axles to see if my drive shafts are long enough for articulating on the trail, because I have a 2.5 inch suspension lift.

1984 jeep cj7, 258 I6, rebuilt T176,rebuilt Dana 300, amc 20 , dana 30, 4.10's Trac-lok in rear , 4.10's detroit soft locker in dana 30, 2.5 inch bds suspension lift, 1 inch polyurethan body mount lift. Line ex. weber carburetor. factory tach. factory clock ,oem replacement speedomter cluster, and oil pressure gauge, factory volt gauge.
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post #12898 of Old 05-26-2013, 06:10 PM
skizriz
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1978 CJ7 
 
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Wheeled the snot out of it. The new locker in the rear worked like a champ.

The low hanging exhaust tip that I knew was going to give me trouble, reared it's head. While backing down a rock ledge, it caught a rock and wrapped down under the rear axle and exited towards the front of the Jeep. I almost cut it off higher yesterday, but never got around to doing it.

I'll take an easy fix like that any day.

78 CJ7.. 258.. TH400/Dana18.. SOA/stock YJ springs.. 35" General Grabbers.. Waggy 44s.. 4.88 gears...Spartan/Lockright...Fiberglass front to rear
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post #12899 of Old 05-26-2013, 08:55 PM
Drugcop4
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Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Murphysboro
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New NOS Carb


"No I don't have to arrest you, I choose to"
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post #12900 of Old 05-26-2013, 11:48 PM
Lifted96ZJ
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1973 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Livermore, CA
Posts: 207
Got the whole thing primed one color, put the hood on and I just ordered some parts that I need to finish the dash


Build Thread
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/1973-cj5-trail-rig-hunting-rig-build-1403107/
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