What did you do to your CJ today? - Page 859 - JeepForum.com

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post #12871 of 20114 Old 05-24-2013, 04:50 AM
VooDoo2
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1978 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
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I spent 3hrs today getting the glue the PO used on the carpet off the inside of the tub. Ive now found my no#1 most hated job in the world.

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post #12872 of 20114 Old 05-24-2013, 07:13 AM
billybooster2
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Disassembled D300, found rear output gear toast so have to upgrade to 32 spline. Phhhh!
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post #12873 of 20114 Old 05-24-2013, 02:09 PM
Alex77cj7
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1977 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Lafayette
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Just finished getting the amc jeep logo tattooed on the inside of my upper arm! Ill try to post pics when I get home.

Build: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/my-77-cj7-project-sleeping-beauty-1442479/#post14508634
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post #12874 of 20114 Old 05-24-2013, 02:22 PM
RDH
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VooDoo2 View Post
I spent 3hrs today getting the glue the PO used on the carpet off the inside of the tub. Ive now found my no#1 most hated job in the world.
Wire cup on a grinder.

1978 CJ7: 304, 3Spd, AMC 20 Rear, Thrush Welded Mufflers W/ Turndowns, Unknown Front, Worn out Dana 20 case
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post #12875 of 20114 Old 05-24-2013, 02:32 PM
GlennLever
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Sat at my computer and created the Latest update to my "master tune up" thread http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/tu...ssion-1527457/

Distributor
This is my opinion; I expect it will cause an uproar.

A lot has been said about the Team Rush Ignition Upgrade. http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/ig...grade-1302931/

There are numerous people who have given great testimonials to how they have done the upgrade and their engines have run better (I suspect that the same increase in performance would have been notice with the replacement of the same parts with stock high quality parts, that the parts in question were most likely replaced because they had failed, or not performing well in the first place).

This upgrade may perform better under very damp, wet and off road conditions. Under normal driving conditions I see no real purpose in performing this modification.

I do agree that the use of high quality parts is very important to producing good reliable spark. This should include a cap with brass terminals, Rotor, Spark Plugs, Coil and Wires (donít cheap out, get good parts). A good hot spark is very important to the performance of the engine.
There has been some discussion on opening the gap on the spark plug with this modification. Not a good idea. You want a HOT spark, you should clearly hear it when out of the engine and see it in the bright of day. Making the spark jump a bigger gap gives you a spark traveling a longer distance but decreases its strength considerably. It also increases the possibility of the spark finding an easier way to ground.

If I understand correctly the premise of the upgrade is to stop spark from jumping to ground inside the distributor cap. The upgrade is providing more air gap or insulation to ground. Spark jumping to ground happens through failed components such as a cap, rotor, cheap wires or a spark plug with its gap to wide. A failed cap or rotor is just providing an easy path to ground; failed or cheap wires can have two faults, a weak point in the insulation providing a path to ground or high resistance. Electricity will always take the easiest path it can find to ground.

What is my basis for stating the above opinion? As you may know I run a front engine dragster. It has a distributor, cap, and rotor of the same size or smaller than the stock setup in the Jeep. I run considerably more voltage through it than the stock Jeep application and twice the RPM, with a Multi Spark per each plug. There is a data record in the dragster that would record any misfires. To date there has never been a misfire. In fact if there were to be a misfire it would blow the blower on the engine off the engine.



I back this up by running stock components on my Jeep. I can touch any part of my ignition system (cap, coil, plugs and not get zapped, if I did I would know I have a failed component. Keep it dry and clean!

Glenn R. Lever
Rochester, New York 14617-2012
My Web Site http://www.lever-family-racing.com

My restoration thread here on the Jeep forum
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/cj...build-1269301/
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post #12876 of 20114 Old 05-24-2013, 03:18 PM
83vert
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1982 CJ7 
 
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Isn't that coil supposed to be mounted vertically and not horizontal?

I am in deep
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/how-did-happen-rebuild-1113470/
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post #12877 of 20114 Old 05-24-2013, 04:10 PM
RamblingCJ
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1986 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Dallas Area
Posts: 471
Quote:
Originally Posted by GlennLever
Sat at my computer and created the Latest update to my "master tune up" thread http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/tu...ssion-1527457/

Distributor
This is my opinion; I expect it will cause an uproar.

A lot has been said about the Team Rush Ignition Upgrade. http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/ig...grade-1302931/

There are numerous people who have given great testimonials to how they have done the upgrade and their engines have run better (I suspect that the same increase in performance would have been notice with the replacement of the same parts with stock high quality parts, that the parts in question were most likely replaced because they had failed, or not performing well in the first place).

This upgrade may perform better under very damp, wet and off road conditions. Under normal driving conditions I see no real purpose in performing this modification.

I do agree that the use of high quality parts is very important to producing good reliable spark. This should include a cap with brass terminals, Rotor, Spark Plugs, Coil and Wires (don’t cheap out, get good parts). A good hot spark is very important to the performance of the engine.
There has been some discussion on opening the gap on the spark plug with this modification. Not a good idea. You want a HOT spark, you should clearly hear it when out of the engine and see it in the bright of day. Making the spark jump a bigger gap gives you a spark traveling a longer distance but decreases its strength considerably. It also increases the possibility of the spark finding an easier way to ground.

If I understand correctly the premise of the upgrade is to stop spark from jumping to ground inside the distributor cap. The upgrade is providing more air gap or insulation to ground. Spark jumping to ground happens through failed components such as a cap, rotor, cheap wires or a spark plug with its gap to wide. A failed cap or rotor is just providing an easy path to ground; failed or cheap wires can have two faults, a weak point in the insulation providing a path to ground or high resistance. Electricity will always take the easiest path it can find to ground.

What is my basis for stating the above opinion? As you may know I run a front engine dragster. It has a distributor, cap, and rotor of the same size or smaller than the stock setup in the Jeep. I run considerably more voltage through it than the stock Jeep application and twice the RPM, with a Multi Spark per each plug. There is a data record in the dragster that would record any misfires. To date there has never been a misfire. In fact if there were to be a misfire it would blow the blower on the engine off the engine.

I back this up by running stock components on my Jeep. I can touch any part of my ignition system (cap, coil, plugs and not get zapped, if I did I would know I have a failed component. Keep it dry and clean!
Well written. You are correct that the premise of the upgrade is to stop spark from jumping around. I undertook the team rush upgrade shortly after a tune up (new cap, rotor, plugs, and wires) and noticed a dramatic difference than the stock setup. Really opened the engine's rpm up. As the Hammer claimed in his write up, there is an advantage to putting the larger cap and rotor on there and I see it every time I go over 3000 rpms.
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post #12878 of 20114 Old 05-24-2013, 04:11 PM
RamblingCJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 83vert
Isn't that coil supposed to be mounted vertically and not horizontal?
That's what I was thinking.
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post #12879 of 20114 Old 05-24-2013, 04:20 PM
skizriz
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1978 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Scottdale
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Started getting my axle parts in. Still waiting on the dust shields. I checked, and they didn't even ship out yet..
Wish I could pick them up at the parts store, mine are trashed. I guess I'll have to waituntil Monday to start tearing everything apart.


78 CJ7.. 258.. TH400/Dana18.. SOA/stock YJ springs.. 35" General Grabbers.. Waggy 44s.. 4.88 gears...Spartan/Lockright...Fiberglass front to rear
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post #12880 of 20114 Old 05-24-2013, 05:35 PM
Alex77cj7
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Location: Lafayette
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image-959977405.jpg



image-853092665.jpg

Build: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/my-77-cj7-project-sleeping-beauty-1442479/#post14508634
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post #12881 of 20114 Old 05-24-2013, 05:41 PM
83vert
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alex77cj7
Now that's dedication

I am in deep
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/how-did-happen-rebuild-1113470/
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post #12882 of 20114 Old 05-24-2013, 11:43 PM
LeePrather
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1978 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Jefferson
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RamblingCJ

Well written. You are correct that the premise of the upgrade is to stop spark from jumping around. I undertook the team rush upgrade shortly after a tune up (new cap, rotor, plugs, and wires) and noticed a dramatic difference than the stock setup. Really opened the engine's rpm up. As the Hammer claimed in his write up, there is an advantage to putting the larger cap and rotor on there and I see it every time I go over 3000 rpms.
I had also just done a full tune up with brand new rotor/cap/plugs less than a month ago before deciding to upgrade team rush. The cap and rotor were the same quality as my new jeep parts were. I also upgraded to a msd blaster coil 2, msd 6a ignition and msd coil wires at the same time. There is an enormous difference before and after in cranking, running and idling...the plugs had nothing to do with it as I didn't swap them during the upgrades
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post #12883 of 20114 Old 05-25-2013, 02:54 AM
VooDoo2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RDH View Post
Wire cup on a grinder.
There was so much the glue kinda melted into the wire brush rendering it useless. It was like trying to grind molten rubber.
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post #12884 of 20114 Old 05-25-2013, 05:38 AM
RDH
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VooDoo2 View Post
There was so much the glue kinda melted into the wire brush rendering it useless. It was like trying to grind molten rubber.
Silly me for thinking people do projects with common sense. Sounds like painful fun.

1978 CJ7: 304, 3Spd, AMC 20 Rear, Thrush Welded Mufflers W/ Turndowns, Unknown Front, Worn out Dana 20 case
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post #12885 of 20114 Old 05-25-2013, 07:39 AM
GlennLever
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 83vert View Post
Isn't that coil supposed to be mounted vertically and not horizontal?
Quote:
Originally Posted by RamblingCJ View Post
That's what I was thinking.
There has been a bunch of discussions on vertical or horizontal.

The discussions on the orientation of the coil comes down to the location of the “air bubble” that may form in the oil in the coil. I have found no definitive answer to this question. Some manufactures mount them vertical (Jeep, Chevy)






and others horizontal (Ford, Mopar).





The “idea” is you want to keep the windings in the coil submersed in the oil to help keep them cool. With the coil horizontal the air bubble is spread out the length of the coil and keep small in size, if it is vertical the air bubble will form at the top in a small area and be large enough to expose some of the windings.

There are even discussions that it should be upside down.



Personally I do not think it makes a difference how you mount it, if it did those instructions would be included when you purchased a new coil which I have never seen.

Mount it however it is convenient.

Glenn R. Lever
Rochester, New York 14617-2012
My Web Site http://www.lever-family-racing.com

My restoration thread here on the Jeep forum
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/cj...build-1269301/
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