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Ruffstuff Axle Simple Swap Kit!ROCK BOTTOM prices on LIFT KITS at Rockridge4wd!! WANT TO Introducing MONSTALINER™ UV Permanent DIY Roll On Bed Line

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Unread 05-21-2013, 09:52 PM   #12856
efi-street
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1976 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: bremen, ga
Posts: 47
Got the engine in. Got it wired up this afternoon. Tomorrow will entail installing the fan, radiator, grille, and filling up all the fluids.

Untitled by efi-street, on Flickr

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Unread 05-21-2013, 10:19 PM   #12857
Boboli
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1974 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Bakersfield, Ca
Posts: 12
Nice what is the blue color on your block?
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Unread 05-21-2013, 11:41 PM   #12858
WSS
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1972 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Chino, Ca
Posts: 2,044
"Converted" to synthetic.........

And built a cover so it does not look attractive to thieves.





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Unread 05-22-2013, 12:59 AM   #12859
zetsubou-jeep
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1978 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: colo. city, colorado
Posts: 304
Quote:
Originally Posted by WSS View Post
"Converted" to synthetic.........

And built a cover so it does not look attractive to thieves.
Thieves suck
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Unread 05-22-2013, 06:49 AM   #12860
RDH
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Location: Tavares, Florida
Posts: 179
Did a little fab and got creative to work around my clutch linkage problem.





The Z-bar is perfectly horizontal now and I get much better clutch throw. I just have to trim the body seam as the piece of linkage that goes from the pedal to the bar rubs a bit.
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1978 CJ7: 304, 3Spd, AMC 20 Rear, Thrush Welded Mufflers W/ Turndowns, Unknown Front, Worn out Dana 20 case
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Unread 05-22-2013, 07:04 AM   #12861
efi-street
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1976 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: bremen, ga
Posts: 47
Quote:
Originally Posted by Boboli View Post
Nice what is the blue color on your block?
It's the AMC blue from Seymour.
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Unread 05-22-2013, 08:55 PM   #12862
CALOcruiser
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1978 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Greensboro, NC
Posts: 467
Quote:
Originally Posted by RDH

Where did you source you Z-bar parts?
Not sure what you mean? "Z-bar" ?
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Unread 05-22-2013, 08:59 PM   #12863
CALOcruiser
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1978 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Greensboro, NC
Posts: 467
Quote:
Originally Posted by RDH

Where did you source you Z-bar parts?
Ahh. You mean the bellcrank? Amazon Prime. Just rugged ridge OEM replacement kit.
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Unread 05-22-2013, 09:32 PM   #12864
Ivehad4
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1978 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: salem, VA
Posts: 133
Quote:
Originally Posted by RDH View Post
Did a little fab and got creative to work around my clutch linkage problem.





The Z-bar is perfectly horizontal now and I get much better clutch throw. I just have to trim the body seam as the piece of linkage that goes from the pedal to the bar rubs a bit.
I did the same thing about 5 years ago because the portion of the body where the standard mount fits was......well gone. I blame it on brake fluid from the MC. It will feel weird at first when the clutch pedal moves independently from the body, but no biggie.
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1978 CJ7 304/T150
1959 Willys CJ5 F4/T90
1995 XJ 4.0
1998 TJ 4.0
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Unread 05-22-2013, 10:08 PM   #12865
gosupes
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1986 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Monroe, WA
Posts: 1,540
I am finally getting around to finishing the plumbing on the OBA and getting all the duct work in for the cold air intake, revision 2. And it's only taken me 4 years.
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1986 CJ7, 4.2 w/4.0 head, TFI-HEI hybrid ignition, Clifford manifold w/Holley 390 w/cold air intake, OBA, 4.5" lift, Woody CV shaft and Tattons in front, 4.10 gears - lunchbox in front, Truetrac in the back, twin-sticked, blower upgrade for running topless, trying to keep it simple.

It's just a Jeep, and if you don't wheel it once in a while, it's not even that.
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Unread 05-22-2013, 10:20 PM   #12866
Alex77cj7
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1977 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Lafayette, Louisiana
Posts: 1,076
Cleaned up and painted my Dana 300! I love how it came out!



image-1685669677.jpg
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Unread 05-23-2013, 07:48 AM   #12867
billybooster2
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1983 CJ8 
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Cow Mountain, CA
Posts: 1,101
Took out my d300; leaking and a wobbly gear. T5 out next. Leak fix reqd. Then flywheel cos my 'new' freezeplug is leaking at the back grrrrr. Might go 4:1
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Unread 05-23-2013, 07:54 AM   #12868
ironbyron1
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1977 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Owensboro, Kentucky
Posts: 179
Quote:
Originally Posted by efi-street
Got the engine in. Got it wired up this afternoon. Tomorrow will entail installing the fan, radiator, grille, and filling up all the fluids.

Untitled by efi-street, on Flickr
Looking good!
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Owensboro, Kentucky
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Unread 05-23-2013, 07:56 PM   #12869
vivimus
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1986 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Pensacola, Fl
Posts: 27
Fixed the winch... Did anyone know there is a spot on the bottom of the old M8000 (1988 vintage) motor to attach a grounding strap??? Had the thing for a decade and never knew about that!!! For the record, it only quit working last week.
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Unread 05-23-2013, 08:29 PM   #12870
GlennLever
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1984 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Rochester, New York
Posts: 2,035
Played with my timing and learned about
Centrifugal Advance

Started a new thread Tune up on a 285 / Weber Carburetor / Distributor / Timing / Advance / Discussion http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/tu...ssion-1527457/

The centrifugal advance is your “Performance advance”. It is achieved by weights being thrown out by centrifugal force as the RPMs increase in the distributor shaft. This is controlled through different spring tensions on the weights and the limit of the opening in the slot in the advance plate.

1979 and earlier advance plates have two opening one for 13 degrees and one for 18. I got mine through Advance Auto as my son works there, you can also get one through NAPA part number NRD484691. You must open the box and check through the peep hole that the advance plate is stamped with 13 and 18.







After 1979 the slots were ___ and ___ which limited the advance with the idea of emissions in mind (I will expand on this). My 1984 computer controlled 285 was stamped with 6.75 and 7.75



By flipping the advance head around from the 13* slot to the 18* slot, you'll get more centrifugal advance out of it. The 18* slot is closer to what the engine really wants for solid performance where the 13* slot is more of an emissions-restricted setting.

Process
1)It is best to remove the distributor for the vehicle.





2)Remove stator, don’t lose the roll pin, this can be done with a puller of a pair of opposing screw drivers. The puller will give you more control. It is not on very tight so it can be done with the screw drivers.





3)Remove pickup base plate, there are two different screws holing the plate on. One is conical and the other is a pan head. The pan head holds the ground strap of the wiring harness in place and the conical one goes in back of the pickup.







4)Remove advance springs. Placement of the springs does not matter; there will be two different tension springs (one bigger than the other).







One tab may appear bent but it is like this to keep the spring from falling off.





The light duty spring should have a small amount of preload to return the plate back to “natural” when the shaft is not spinning. The heavy one will be loose.

5)Remove small inside “C” clip in the top of the shaft to release the advance plate. This is hard to see and may be hidden under some grease.





6)Flipping the plate is a misnomer, you will be picking it up on the shaft rotating it to the 18 degree slot and putting it back in place. Slide the advance plate up on the shaft, rotate to 18 degree slot is aligned with the tab and set it back down in place. I took it off the shaft here so you could see it, but you do not have to do that.





7)Long tabs on the stator go up, careful not to lose the roll pin

Foot note. I found that the pickup plate was pretty tight so I took it apart and flatten the wafer washer a little and put a small amount of silicon grease on the plastic tabs, it now moves smoothly.









Additional foot note. In some of the mega threads it is recommended to adjust the vacuum advance diaphragm out 7 turns counter clock wise. i was unable to find the correct size allen wrench to do this.

I have been informed that the correct allen wrench is a 3MM wrench.






Just for the grins of it I went through the allen wrenches on the distributor that I pulled out and found one that fit. Tried it in the new one and it does nothing. I pull the vacuum of the old distributor and put it on the Modified distributor.

Let me know if this should be edited to include something else about the centrifugal advance.

Another foot note. I have taken the recommendation of going to the 18 degree advance at face value and did not test the 13 degree advance.
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Glenn R. Lever
Rochester, New York 14617-2012
My Cars http://www.leverfamilysite.com/vehicles.htm

My restoration thread here on the Jeep forum
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/cj...build-1269301/

New FED, Drag Racing Forum (I am an Administrator) at
http://www.frontenginedragsters.org/forum/index.php
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