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Unread 01-31-2013, 09:26 PM   #11371
82JeepCJ7
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1982 CJ7 
 
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Get the kind that wrap around the bar. So much stronger. The load is spread across a larger area, instead of pin pointed like when you use a bolt or clip in end. Most sanctioning bodies for race cars do not allow the bolt or clip in style because of this.

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Unread 01-31-2013, 09:43 PM   #11372
Alex77cj7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 82JeepCJ7
Get the kind that wrap around the bar. So much stronger. The load is spread across a larger area, instead of pin pointed like when you use a bolt or clip in end. Most sanctioning bodies for race cars do not allow the bolt or clip in style because of this.
Thank you!
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Unread 01-31-2013, 10:03 PM   #11373
82JeepCJ7
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Just make sure they are threaded the correct way as they go around the bar. I saw one come loose in a sprint car when it flipped... Not pretty.



Lil background info on me. I was the crew chief on a 360 sprint car for 15 years. I had to know all the safety systems and regulations.
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Unread 01-31-2013, 10:05 PM   #11374
lucdog
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You go outside in 7 temperatures, just to look at it.
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1957 WILLYS pickup, needs work.
1973 J 4000,
1978 CJ7 DD.
1979 CJ7 360, TH400/Quadratrac trail Jeep.
1979 J20
1980 CJ5 trail Jeep.
1983 CJ7 pretty weekend and sometimes to work Driver in the summer, My first rebuild, if the Q-trac and 5 are broke, this one is the one to take. its just as capable as the other 2, except nice paint.
1984 Grand Wagoneer, 1 ton axles, great 360/727, and a big a$& tree fell on it .
1989 YJ the CJ to YJ conversion.
2005 TJ Rubicon.
2011 Grand Cherokee Laredo 4x4, Mrs. LUCDOG's DD.
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Unread 01-31-2013, 10:13 PM   #11375
Alex77cj7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 82JeepCJ7
Just make sure they are threaded the correct way as they go around the bar. I saw one come loose in a sprint car when it flipped... Not pretty.

Lil background info on me. I was the crew chief on a 360 sprint car for 15 years. I had to know all the safety systems and regulations.
What's the best position of the bar to be welded in? At, above or below shoulder height?
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Unread 01-31-2013, 10:15 PM   #11376
8pitcher
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alex77cj7

What's the best position of the bar to be welded in? At, above or below shoulder height?
About 4" below Is how I'm going to build mine.

sent from the bottom of an empty money pit
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Unread 01-31-2013, 10:23 PM   #11377
Alex77cj7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 8pitcher

About 4" below Is how I'm going to build mine.

sent from the bottom of an empty money pit
Yeah that's how I was gonna do it too. I thought that was regulation but I couldn't remember.
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Unread 01-31-2013, 11:35 PM   #11378
82JeepCJ7
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Use this pic as a reference to mounting your shoulder harness bar.
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Unread 01-31-2013, 11:39 PM   #11379
Alex77cj7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 82JeepCJ7
Use this pic as a reference to mounting your shoulder harness bar.
Thank you. Idk how I missed it earlier! Hahaha anyways I think ill just mount it at shoulder height right behind my seat. That way it will still leve room for rear passengers to climb on the rare occasion someone rides back there! Think 5-point harnesses are good for my application?
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Unread 02-01-2013, 01:04 AM   #11380
82JeepCJ7
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5 points are nice, but very rarely is there a situation where the anti-submarine belt (crotch strap) is useful. I would get a set of 3" wide belts. Anything narrower and you end up with nice bruises or cuts where the narrow belts pressed against you.

I stay away from cam lock belts. They tend to get gummed up with dirt etc. and I have seen them fail (not fully lock in). I only use latch lock belts. Very few moving parts, the locking mechanism can be seen clearly, and they are not affected by dirt.

Stay away from these.


These always work and are simple.
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Unread 02-01-2013, 01:48 AM   #11381
Dadamsnv
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lucdog
You go outside in 7 temperatures, just to look at it.
Wrong thread bill. Hahahahaha
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Unread 02-01-2013, 06:12 AM   #11382
lucdog
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dadamsnv

Wrong thread bill. Hahahahaha
Oops
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1957 WILLYS pickup, needs work.
1973 J 4000,
1978 CJ7 DD.
1979 CJ7 360, TH400/Quadratrac trail Jeep.
1979 J20
1980 CJ5 trail Jeep.
1983 CJ7 pretty weekend and sometimes to work Driver in the summer, My first rebuild, if the Q-trac and 5 are broke, this one is the one to take. its just as capable as the other 2, except nice paint.
1984 Grand Wagoneer, 1 ton axles, great 360/727, and a big a$& tree fell on it .
1989 YJ the CJ to YJ conversion.
2005 TJ Rubicon.
2011 Grand Cherokee Laredo 4x4, Mrs. LUCDOG's DD.
Lots of parts not for sale, i'm a hoarder.
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Unread 02-01-2013, 06:19 AM   #11383
Alex77cj7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 82JeepCJ7
5 points are nice, but very rarely is there a situation where the anti-submarine belt (crotch strap) is useful. I would get a set of 3" wide belts. Anything narrower and you end up with nice bruises or cuts where the narrow belts pressed against you.

I stay away from cam lock belts. They tend to get gummed up with dirt etc. and I have seen them fail (not fully lock in). I only use latch lock belts. Very few moving parts, the locking mechanism can be seen clearly, and they are not affected by dirt.

Stay away from these.

These always work and are simple.
Thanks! I was actually going to go with the cam lock style but now ill just go with the other ones.
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Unread 02-01-2013, 06:22 AM   #11384
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Drove home 150k and picked up a new muffler on the way. No more crappy racket coming out of what used to be the muffler. Now I can really hear my flogged gudgeons. After that I stripped all the A/C stuff. 10 kilos of dead weight gone.
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Unread 02-01-2013, 11:23 AM   #11385
82JeepCJ7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lucdog View Post
Oops
Must be the cold temperature....
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