What did you do to your CJ today? - Page 661 - JeepForum.com
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post #9901 of 22975 Old 09-21-2012, 12:35 PM
firewalker909
O.k., one more.
 
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1973 CJ5 
 
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I haven't seen my CJ in over a week. Its been at the Fab shop getting some additions. The fabricator sent me these pics today of the sliders and rear tire carrier.

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post #9902 of 22975 Old 09-21-2012, 01:52 PM
BradWilson101
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1975 CJ5 
 
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Been sanding for a few days. Yuck!

image-3876475500.jpg
image-949583255.jpg
image-2697026053.jpg

75 CJ-5 with 76 glass tub. 350 sbc with Edelbrock 600cfm, SM465, D20, D44 w/ 3:73, D30 w/ 3:73, Novak Hydro Clutch Convo. Turned into a frame off resto so it's still in progress.
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post #9903 of 22975 Old 09-21-2012, 02:01 PM
Lego-26
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1979 CJ7 
 
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Yesterday it was a new motor mount. Today I got to replace a blown U joint. Tomorrow, who knows.
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post #9904 of 22975 Old 09-21-2012, 02:41 PM
GlennLever
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ahar9 View Post
Damn you must be selling crack or something to have enough money to build just a trail jeep in highschool. Mines a driver and wheeler. And a crossover is where you keep the tierod on stock knuckles and get a high steer arm for the passenger knuckle so your draglink bolts up higher on the knuckle. The draglink then clears the spring and gives you a flat angle for less bumpsteer. It's the right way or a full high steer
Am I missing something, why not just do a tie rod swap from bottom to top, no need to purchase parts other than the insert.



See http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/dr...l#post13369237

Glenn R. Lever
Rochester, New York 14617-2012
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My restoration thread here on the Jeep forum

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post #9905 of 22975 Old 09-21-2012, 03:43 PM
8pitcher
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GlennLever

Am I missing something, why not just do a tie rod swap from bottom to top, no need to purchase parts other than the insert.

See http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/dr...l#post13369237
I am spring over not under like that.


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1976ish cj5 304 t18 d20 2.5" lift

some year YJ custom frame HP D60 14 bolt 4 linked front rear FI 350 700r4 NP231c

2009 JK 4 door 2.5" lift 35" tires custom bumpers mile marker 9500# winch
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post #9906 of 22975 Old 09-21-2012, 03:52 PM
firewalker909
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[QUOTE=BradWilson101;14199435]Been sanding for a few days. Yuck!

What color are you going to use and from what company? Planning on painting my CJ5 soon.
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post #9907 of 22975 Old 09-21-2012, 04:02 PM
8pitcher
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Quote:
Originally Posted by firewalker909
I haven't seen my CJ in over a week. Its been at the Fab shop getting some additions. The fabricator sent me these pics today of the sliders and rear tire carrier.
When you get it back post more pics of that tire carrier I like it.


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1976ish cj5 304 t18 d20 2.5" lift

some year YJ custom frame HP D60 14 bolt 4 linked front rear FI 350 700r4 NP231c

2009 JK 4 door 2.5" lift 35" tires custom bumpers mile marker 9500# winch
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post #9908 of 22975 Old 09-21-2012, 04:30 PM
Dadamsnv
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1977 CJ5 
 
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Location: Reno
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Drove it to work and it felt remarkably smooth and buttery, then I remembered that I left the tires at 10 PSI from wheeling last night. Oops. The new skyjacker hydros probably helped too.

I'm looking for a Scout II Dana 300. Drop me a line if you have any leads. Thanks
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post #9909 of 22975 Old 09-21-2012, 04:31 PM
Dadamsnv
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 8pitcher View Post
I am spring over not under like that.
Looks like you'll need a full on high steer to clear the springs

I'm looking for a Scout II Dana 300. Drop me a line if you have any leads. Thanks
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post #9910 of 22975 Old 09-21-2012, 04:31 PM
8pitcher
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dadamsnv

Looks like you'll need a full on high steer to clear the springs
I have no money don't tell me that.


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1976ish cj5 304 t18 d20 2.5" lift

some year YJ custom frame HP D60 14 bolt 4 linked front rear FI 350 700r4 NP231c

2009 JK 4 door 2.5" lift 35" tires custom bumpers mile marker 9500# winch
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post #9911 of 22975 Old 09-21-2012, 04:44 PM
gazzo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BradWilson101 View Post
Been sanding for a few days. Yuck!
It will sooo be worth it when you're done though brad. Looks like you're going well. Colour?

Gary (gazzo)

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/gazzos-cj10-truck-2185617/
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post #9912 of 22975 Old 09-21-2012, 04:55 PM
BradWilson101
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Thanks. Was gonna just clear coat it an call it urban camo but my wife won't have it. It's a glass body so after fixing all the cracks I'm gonna sand up to 400 grit. It's been recommended that I use a primer/sealer so I checked around and it looks like I'm gonna use one from Napa ( not sure which one yet) and then a "one shot" gloss black from Napa as well. I get a sweet discount from Napa so it helps. It's also been suggested that I use a high build primer but WTH, it's a Jeep.

75 CJ-5 with 76 glass tub. 350 sbc with Edelbrock 600cfm, SM465, D20, D44 w/ 3:73, D30 w/ 3:73, Novak Hydro Clutch Convo. Turned into a frame off resto so it's still in progress.
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post #9913 of 22975 Old 09-21-2012, 05:03 PM
jumbojeepman
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Location: Greenville
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Started putting in my 4 degree shims to take care of my vibration issues. Got one side in, but when I tightened the center clamp the shim cracked in half. Note, Tough Country shims may crack in half if your springs have much arch! So I fugured what the heck, I'll flip the 5 degree aluminum shims that came with the Superlift springs, and flip them around and try those. So I install the side I'm working on, and then as I am sliding under my Jeep I decided to grab the front driveshaft and see if there is any play in the u-joint. Now I did the same thing a week ago and there wasn't any play, but my back tires were on the ground. So I check again and the front front u-joint is shot. I mean the needles are gone on one cap and the rest are rusty. Now I'm at a quandary. When I pulled the shims out of the spring packs there was a definite reduction in vibration, but it wasn't eliminated. But I clearly have a bad u-joint. Do I continue with the shims in the back and then do the u-joint, or do I remove the shim I just stuck in and see if just repairing the u-joint fixes the problem.

Well, I decided to pull the shim back out, and just fix the u-joint. I did so and the vibration is gone. So it was a combination of too much angle in the back and a bad u-joint up front.
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post #9914 of 22975 Old 09-21-2012, 05:03 PM
Dadamsnv
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 8pitcher View Post
I have no money don't tell me that.
Ah but you are an excellent fabricator I hear... You'll probably come up with something clever. And maybe marketable

I'm looking for a Scout II Dana 300. Drop me a line if you have any leads. Thanks
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post #9915 of 22975 Old 09-21-2012, 05:11 PM
8pitcher
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dadamsnv

Ah but you are an excellent fabricator I hear... You'll probably come up with something clever. And maybe marketable
Ya I know I was kidding.


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1976ish cj5 304 t18 d20 2.5" lift

some year YJ custom frame HP D60 14 bolt 4 linked front rear FI 350 700r4 NP231c

2009 JK 4 door 2.5" lift 35" tires custom bumpers mile marker 9500# winch
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