Finished putting on the new Rock hard 4x4 rear bumper and tire carrier...and took the doors of since it was like 75 today
2006 Dodge CTD
2001 Jeep Grand
1984 Jeep CJ-7
1974 Ford Bronco
"Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. "
- Albert Einstein (1879-1955)
Put a new drivers seat in, Put new chrome hood latches on, took my three girls on rides around the neighborhood since it was about 90 today and they are on spring break, realized how floaty the thing is going down the road, came home climbed underneath and started looking around until one of my 7 yo twins decided to jump in and started playing with the clutch and almost rolled over me, she then preceded to tell me she could probably drive better than me and not to tell her what to do in HER jeep!
Replaced my orignal front bumper,which sorta resembled the letter S, (or a Twizzler) with the TJ front bumper that I picked up for FREE at the swap meet this past Sunday, and replaced the 'air' dash indicator light that went-out from vibration ( I think) when I installed the stereo.
"I'm a simple man. I like pretty, dark-haired women, and breakfast food."
Such a tease, 65 on Monday and Nor'easter today. Gotta love good ole New England. Moved the Jeep out of plowing range. Grabbed the old AMC 20 housing with springs out back into the shop, that was heavy. Phase 2 underway, shootin for a April release. Now just need to ordered R&P and install kits for the rear, but my neighbor wants the Dana 44/Dana 30 I have for his and he has 4:10 all set up, might need to cut a deal and do a even trade.
85' CJ7 Laredo, 383 GM, Turbo 350, NP 203. SOA, 2" frame lift, 34" TSL swampers, Dana 30 open, AMC 20 w/ detroit locker, 4:10's, 1 Piece Mosers, 35" boggers to abuse when needed.
85 CJ-7 AMC 20 Aussie Locker and Superior One Piece Axle Shafts Complete
Whew...finally! Bled the breaks, buttoned up the diff and added 4.8 pints of oil. Put the wheels back on and took her for a spin in 35 degree weather with the top off. Yee haw! Aussie locker and superior one axles are installed in my AMC 20!!!!!!
While turning - click,click,click,click,click,click,click, BANG!, (What the hell - sounded AND felt like a half stick of dynamite went off in my differential. Drove it around for about an hour throughout the neighborhood. Over the course of an hour there were about 8-10 loud BANGs! Loud enough for the neighbors to turn and look...Manual says - if you installed your locker per these instructions, there is no need to be concerned about these additional sounds (I'm concerned although I was very meticolous throughout). I'll keep you posted.
Not trying to make this into a full article on the install so I'll hit the highlights. Just wanted to show some of the issues I faced and suggest some better ways to tackle this project.
Starting at the beginning with the 2 piece axle replacement:
1. Top diff cover bolts gave me trouble. Recommend ratchet style wrench or crows foot.
2. Left axle nut would not budge. Soaked it overnight with PB blaser, heated up with propane torch, and fianally got it loose with a 4ft piece of steel pipe over the top of my wrench!
3. Step 2 was a waste of time since I later opted to pull the hub and axle out all at once. Used the Advance Auto parts axle and seal puller. Came in handy, especially for the seal removal.
4. Tore apart the drum brakes and fought with the emergency brake cable. Next time, I'd leave the brakes intact and just remove remove the 4 flange bolts with an offset wrench to remove the axle. (It's all about having the right tools) Take the time to clean all of your parts.
5. Decided to leave the hub intact since one was 21 years old. Had to get the backing plate off so I cut the bearing up with my cutoff tool then removed the backing plate.
6. Had to order two protective guards, think they were $5.95 a piece
6.1 Made a rookie mistake with the inner seals trying to figure which side faces towards the diff. Recommend the $8.00 seal installation tool at Harbor Freight to make sure the seals go in correctly - metal side of the seal facing the diff.
7. Also ordered new shims since the old ones were toast. Definately take your time here to measure how far the bearing extends from the housing. Measure twice...and plan accordingly. Cheap feeler gauge worked fine.
8. Assembly went pretty smooth. Went to an on base autoshop and used a bearing press for the first time - pretty cool. An absolute must to press the bearings and the retainer on the shaft.
9. 3rd trip to Hardware store, this time for new nuts, bolts, and RTV.
1. I went way overboard on the teardown. Marked all of the bearing races and ring location anticipating pulling out the diff. Only later to realize I should of left left the diff in. Struggled with the retaining pin and the center shaft. Pin finally came out with a tiny screwdriver and hammer. I then pounded the center pin way back into the pinion housing. Could't pull it the rest of the way out or push it back in. Stress level was high - time to pull out the diff.
2. Dropped the retaining bearings by removing the two bolts on each side...Removed the diff, even though I didn't need too. Rubber mallet helped to encourage it out! Pounded out the center pin and the spiders and side gears easily came out.
3. Directions ask to identify a thick ring gear or thin. Hellifino...Searched JF...no luck. Went to the shop, fastened the diff in a vice and remove the 8 bolts. Ring gear wouldn't budge. Marked the location and pounded with a rubber mallet, finally got the ring gear off.
4. Greased up the new aussie gears and installed them in the carrier and put the ring gear back on being carefull to use a "star" pattern while tightening the eight bolts. Never did see any thrust washers so I kept going only to find out the were sticking to the old side gears.
5. Other than fussing with the 4 small pins and and springs, putting the aussie in the carrier is very simple. Important step is to pull out the feeler gauge and measure the gaps. Aussie wants them written down in case of a warranty claim later.
6. Time to get the heavy diff back were it belongs. This was painfull since it was a very tight squeeze and the shims on each side didn't want to cooperate. Wish I had some sort ot brass shim installation tool to ease everyting back in. Tightened everything up using threadlocker then went to back to the axle shafts.
Finishing the axle install:
RTVd the axle flange area then tightened the four flange bolts again using thread locker. Building drum brakes is always fun the first couple of times- NOT!. If you are new at it save yourself some grief and take some pictures before you dissasemble. This will give you a good reference while your scratching your head re-installing. Definately recommend a brake tool or some curved pliers to pull the springs in place. The bottom spring is a PITA with the ebrake and adjuster nob all set in place at the same time. More importantly, just leave them all assembled like I mentioned earlier. Lastly, don't try to bleed your brakes with the drums off!!!
EDIT: Took it wheelin and it did great. Without the locker I would of had to tow strap out a half a dozen times. Didn't pull the strap out once! Big improvement!!!!!!!
Last edited by wheelinjames; 04-30-2007 at 04:18 PM..
yesterday,welded up the rear diff..Its Lincolned Locked now,and stiched the housing to the tubes..
finished welding up the rear frame rails,put on new 3/4'' shackles,fitted up new 4'' springs,placed axle on springs and got shut down by the wrong size U-bolts......Dam rough country...Gotta call them tommorow..
1980 cj7 258 weber,5'' of lift,33'' boggers,lincoln locked,lockright and a snorkle...Khaki Jeep Club member No. 1
1984 cj8 350 on 35's..the wifes
"offroad it, and wave then you might understand"[/QUOTE]
BLS Home Chapter... Where it all Started
My low Buck Rock Crawler project Project..Stop by and check it out..[URL="http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=497896"][B][COLOR="DarkOrange"]The lizzard Queen[/COLOR][/B][/URL]