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mopar346 09-10-2011 06:56 PM

Well I had a productive day!
Started putting the T4 back in AGAIN, all works well maybe it will last with OE stuff long enough to get the other one done. Fixed and oil leak in my Dad's truck, o-ring on the remote oil filter lines at the adaptor on the block very limited access but done. Picked up my free tranny, it was a 435 so I scored big, very tight shifts cleanly and rolls well, I'll do the tear down tomorrow and order the adaptor, a small parts kit and what ever else I don't like the looks of. Bought a Toyota with straight axles for $200 complete roller, 4.33s although something is going on in the rear. plan is to pull the axles and take it to the boneyard, should recoop most if not all of my money.

All in all I'm pretty pleased with myself right now.:2thumbsup:

Now if I can just find a T176 bellhousing I'll be set.

Hurricane4 09-10-2011 11:41 PM

Man - I got tired just reading about all the work you did! :D

Is this the bellhousing your are looking for?

mopar346 09-11-2011 07:43 AM

Yes, except for one small issue, I would like mine to be in $50 range.:D

Thanks for the effort anyway.

Fixin to go look at another Toyota in few minutes, come home tear down the T176 for inspection/parts order and then drive to Atlanta so I can fly to Philly at 10pm.

So goes my life.

jeepwhore 09-11-2011 09:34 AM

Nice to see someone else trying Toyota axles. I started tearing mine down last week. Mine are geared with 4.30's as well and I'm currently looking for cross over arms that will let me stay SUA (OTT has undrilled arms for full hydro that will work but they ain't cheap). Also getting ready to send the birfields out to be "smurfed" since I can't justify dropping $600 on longfields. The smurfs will be plenty strong fo my wheeling style.

Not sure if I am going to outboard the springs the required 3/4" on each side or try and get the springs to work in their stock location. The drivers side is no problem and it looks like there might be just enough room to make the pass. side work too. We'll see I guess. looking forward to following your progress on the axle install. Judging by what you got done in a day you'll have them mounted way before I do! :D

abnkevin 09-11-2011 12:42 PM

I've got Yotas front and rear in my CJ-7 as well. If you need pics let me know. Good luck.


jeepwhore 09-11-2011 12:48 PM


Originally Posted by abnkevin (Post 12155776)
I've got Yotas front and rear in my CJ-7 as well. If you need pics let me know. Good luck.


If Mopar doesn't mind the hijack I'd definitely be interested in more details and pics. Your SOA I see but I'm still interested in how you chose to mount them (outboard vs. mod the perches)

mopar346 09-12-2011 11:11 AM

Hi jacj he!!, I would love to see and hear about it. Might as well gain from someone else's mistakes.........uhh, experiences.:)

The second Toyota had 4.10s and he wnated more than I wanted to put in a spare set, so I will let him sit on them a few weeks and then I'll make another pass. When I start the axles maybe I will do a thread and we can talk about it together, seems you have done more research about the steering than I have. I will typically bolt it up and then figure out what I forgot.

jeepwhore 09-12-2011 02:57 PM

Yeah a thread dedicated to this swap would be great. There really isn't much out there on it.

Here's a little info to mull over in the meantime. The biggest thing to consider for the steering is if you're going SOA or SUA. Toyota pickups used push-pull steering (pitman arm moves front to back instead of side to side, front of vehicle is to the left in the picture).

The J-shaped steering arm on the left is attached to the drivers side knuckle and wraps around the back side of the shock, connecting to the drag link attached to the pitman arm in the first picture:

If you go SOA a set of hi steer arms will convert it to cross over steering. If you go SUA hi steer arms won't work because there isn't enough clearance between the frame and tie rod when the suspension compresses (unless you're running 5+ inches of lift). There are two solutions I've found for SUA.

One is to cut off the j-arm flush with the backside of the knuckle (arm on the left) and weld two pass. side arms together (one upside down) for the pass. side (arm on the right):

The tie rod attaches to the cut off drivers arm and the lowest hole on the welded pass. arm. The drag link goes to the upper hole on the pass. arm.

The other option is to use a pair of flat arms typically used for full hydro steering set ups:

Personally I don't want to booty fab my steering arms so I'm opting for the hydro arms.

mopar346 09-12-2011 03:22 PM

Interesting, got a link to the arms since I'm lazy.

jeepwhore 09-12-2011 04:28 PM and are two canadian companies I have sourced them from to avoid shipping and brokerage fees at the border. But neither have them pictured on their websites, go figure. I would think and would make something as well but I haven't really looked.

Basically any arm without a rise off the top of the knuckle should work.

Anything resembling the picture below, if used SUA, may cause you headaches if you don't have enough lift:

mopar346 09-12-2011 07:59 PM

Trailgear site didn't work but that Marlin site has a lot of info. Thanks, you have given me something to study for the week.

jeepwhore 09-12-2011 11:26 PM

Oops, fixed the trail gear link.......and don't thank me until you've put your visa away! :D

I wasn't sure I would go through with the swap because my whole reason for using the toyota axles was because it would be you said.

It cost me $200 for the set of axles and I was saving money not having to regear (easily $1000 for parts and labour to regear front and rear). But the savings get eaten up quickly with lockers ($250 per axle) and upgraded birfield joints ($450 for just the chromoly birfs or $600 including moly inner shafts). Plus the arms at $250 and a little more for small stuff like knuckle ball gussets, new spring perches etc.

So cost wise it looked to be a wash.......until I got a hold of a guy in BC that takes the stock birfield joints and "smurfs" them. Essentially a reinforcement is welded to the bell of the birf and it is heat treated to make it stronger. They may or may not be as strong as longfield axles (many have had no issues while others have busted them) but considering my wheeling style is pretty tame and the cost is 1/6 of the longfields it is a no brainer for me.

I figure even if the cost did end up being the same I'd be ahead of the game with a front axle that has a stronger gear set, stronger axle shafts, a removable third and much stronger locking hubs (when compared to building my current D30)

But enough blabbing. Keep in touch as you start looking into it more. It'd be good to have someone else doing the same thing to bounce ideas and questions off of.


mopar346 09-13-2011 04:12 AM

You got it, funny that it's not talk about more on here, it appears to be a great swap.

The time now is 03:07 AM.

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