Welding spring perchs to front diff to correct spring placement - JeepForum.com
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Unread 11-10-2011, 07:08 AM   #1
Ironhorse6
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1983 CJ7 
 
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Welding spring perchs to front diff to correct spring placement

PO put a spring over lift on the jeep. the rear diff is fine, they added perchs to the top but left the bottom on so i just put it back with the proper 4" springs

now to the front....they took the original perchs off

im putting on 4" lift springs and new shocks but i have to weld new perchs for it to work

im worried about getting them in the right location to have proper drive line angle. currently the pinon is angled upward giving it a neutral caster. i still have to put the tranny and transfer back in first so make sure i have good drive line angle

any lessons learned is appreciated

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Unread 11-10-2011, 07:46 AM   #2
CSP
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The front one on the passenger side is cast as part of the differential if it's the stock axle. It would be very difficult to remove, so check again. If it's there that's the basis for the angle for the drivers side perch. If it's gone, make the SUA perches parallel to the SOA perches.
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Unread 11-10-2011, 07:56 AM   #3
Ironhorse6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CSP View Post
The front one on the passenger side is cast as part of the differential if it's the stock axle. It would be very difficult to remove, so check again. If it's there that's the basis for the angle for the drivers side perch. If it's gone, make the SUA perches parallel to the SOA perches.
no perch on either side

i need to check caster angle i believe because the pinon is angled upward and it looks like i have neutral or negative caster. parallel wont work if thats the case....guess in need to measure angle....thanks
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Unread 11-10-2011, 08:04 AM   #4
CSP
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Measuring is the best bet if you don't trust the existing perches. Make sure that weight is on the axle when you do it. Put a perch in the approximate location and bolt everything together before welding. Get weight on it, set the angle and tack the perches in place before removing anything.
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Unread 11-10-2011, 08:19 AM   #5
Ironhorse6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CSP View Post
Measuring is the best bet if you don't trust the existing perches. Make sure that weight is on the axle when you do it. Put a perch in the approximate location and bolt everything together before welding. Get weight on it, set the angle and tack the perches in place before removing anything.
Thanks, thats what i was thinking but needing some confirmation here

in order to get weight on it i will have to bolt the everything together..the axel to the springs with the "loose" perch underneath and check angle from there. unless there is another way to get weight on it, thats the direction i plan on going. i also have 2 and 2.5 degree shims but since im welding the perchs i think i can avoid that by getting it right the first time with perch
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Unread 11-10-2011, 08:21 AM   #6
CSP
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So what happened to the cast in perch (I'm assuming that this is a stock Dana 30 axle)? Did they grind it off?
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Unread 11-10-2011, 08:24 AM   #7
nshefbuch
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ironhorse6

Thanks, thats what i was thinking but needing some confirmation here

in order to get weight on it i will have to bolt the everything together..the axel to the springs with the "loose" perch underneath and check angle from there. unless there is another way to get weight on it, thats the direction i plan on going. i also have 2 and 2.5 degree shims but since im welding the perchs i think i can avoid that by getting it right the first time with perch
Rotating the front axle will change your caster so be careful. It sucks to muscle everything in place before tacking welds but it ensures proper alignment.
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Unread 11-10-2011, 09:00 AM   #8
Ironhorse6
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Originally Posted by CSP View Post
So what happened to the cast in perch (I'm assuming that this is a stock Dana 30 axle)? Did they grind it off?
yes....i assume so. only thing left is rust marks
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Unread 11-10-2011, 10:33 AM   #9
CSP
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Watch your perch height so that the passenger and drivers side perches are the same height from the centerline of the axle tube. You'll have to raise the drivers side one higher from the tube to make up for the height of the cast diff.
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