[FLynes]

Originally Posted by 243

Maybe the OP only has a stick welder at his shop.

I have limited skills stick welding but many principles of welding apply whenever you weld with any machine.

1. Turn the machine down low.

2. Fit-up must be *tight* and no gap is best.

3. If you can back up the joint, a piece of 1/4" or thicker copper or aluminum clamped to the back of the joint minimizes burn-thru.

4. Short tacks.

Good luck!

x2 and make sure the pieces you're welding are clean and free of rust. If you're not burning through, I'd bet your metal has contamination on it.

Love the new avatar Dave!

[brownbagg]

get smaller rods

[Shiftace]

Welding sheetmetal with stick is actually pretty easy. First, as touched on before, make sure you are dealing with steel. a magnet will answer that question for you.
As also mentioned, cleanliness and fit are important. Dirt and rust will cause you to blow through immediatly. Good fit up(tight in the case of sheetmetal) will simplify the entire process a hundred fold.
Next, take that 6013 farm rod out back and throw it in the manure lagoon.
Pick yourself up some 3/32" 6010 (or 6011 if your machine is AC) This is a fast-freeze rod and gives you a great deal more control and ease or arc striking.
Here's the trick, strike your arc then move it to where you want the tack. Only hold it there for maybe half a second with a short arc. By short arc, I mean about half a hair width from touching. Then pull out. Repeat this as many times as you need, moving around the piece to not concentrated too much heat in one place.
If you're already welding it with 6013 than this process should be fairly easy for you to catch on to.
Remember to keep your heat set so low that it will barely run yet hot enough to be able to strike off fairly easily. I'm guessing 35-45 amps but since EVERY machine is different and EVERY weldor is different this is nothing more than a wild suggestion.

[RenoF250]

Here is a pic of what I am getting. It is melting both pieces but nothing in the middle. This is with 1/16" 6013 rod at 30A. I have some 3/32" 7018 rod and it did the same thing. If I have any 6011 rod it is way too big. I may try to get some smaller stuff today. The 6013 worked well on the body mount area though and it was nearly the same thickness. I did have some problem with this but not nearly as bad.

[Shiftace]

You can make the jump with 6013 here if you do several drag throughs. The problem here is that you are running too cold to make it flow across and connect. Don't run any hotter in this situation! Just drag the rod through the weld zone and deposit a little at a time until it connects. Then you can turn it up a little to make it flow together. Be patient, heat is your enemy with here.
Try to clamp it together, it looks like you have a bit of a gap that would weld much easier if closer.

[RenoF250]

Originally Posted by Shiftace

You can make the jump with 6013 here if you do several drag throughs. The problem here is that you are running too cold to make it flow across and connect. Don't run any hotter in this situation! Just drag the rod through the weld zone and deposit a little at a time until it connects. Then you can turn it up a little to make it flow together. Be patient, heat is your enemy with here.

I was just out trying that. Did a second and third pass at 40A but now I have 2 blobs on each side. Cleaned the slag out as much as possible but that crap likes to jump right in the middle. It is very annoying as it looks great when welding. I don't mind multiple passes but slag cleaning is no fun.

No small 6011 rod around in the regular stores, will have to buy that from a welding shop I guess.

[RenoF250]

HF has 1/16 7014. Might give that a try.

[RenoF250]

I am starting to think it is the rod. I got the one in the picture gobbed together with the 3/32" 7018 rod at 50A. Then I made another weld in one pass with the same setup. The rod is too big and the current too high though so it is WAY to easy to burn through. The only reason I got away with it at all is the piece I am welding in is thick enough to take it so I spend most of the time on it and jump over real quick to the sheet.

[Sgt_Utz]

It looks to me like you're too far away from the metal with your rods. I'd turn the welder down and try to get really close to the metal (without sticking to the metal of course). Because rods are so thick they will arc "sideways" more than MIG. Anyone who has welded stick will know what I'm talking about.

As everyone knows, the arc will take the path of least resistance, which happens to be on either top or borrom, but not in the middle since there's a gap. Try to close the gap if you can (should never weld gaps). If not you may just need to keep building it up until it bridges.

[ejeeperguy]

Invest in a mig welder.I say this only as a fellow jeeper who has spent alot of time welding repairs like that one.You will find more uses than a torch.A grinder and mig welder can do more in less time.

[RenoF250]

I am looking for a MIG. The poor old stick gets no respect around here I see.

I think the rod was the problem. I used some #8 screws to put in a couple more piece of angle and welded them with the 7018 with no real problem. All done now just a little clean-up and paint.

[CrankyD]

dry 7018's on 45 amps 110 volts dc Electrode pos. Clean the snot out of it, and close that gap up. Touch and go, If you thought that weld looked good when it was going down, you need to get your mask darker. You have to be able to tell between the slag pool and the actual bead. good luck.

[Skerr]

Originally Posted by Sgt_Utz

thick they will arc "sideways"

I agree... your arc is blowing out the side. Hold your stick more perpendicular to the area you want to weld. Don't tilt the rod (if you can help it). Also, you might try moving your ground a little closer.