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11-05-2011, 09:27 PM
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#1
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Foresthill, CA
Posts: 694
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I have my grill off trying to fix it up and paint it. It has some cracks at the bottom where the radiator mounts. I went to weld it and it just will not weld. I am using 6013 rod and it all looks like it is going every time I end up with a bead on each side and slag in the middle. It is very frustrating. Any ideas?
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11-05-2011, 10:11 PM
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#2
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Jefferson, Tx
Posts: 164
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Not sure whats going on there. Maybe I could help more with pictures?
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11-05-2011, 10:16 PM
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#3
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Foresthill, CA
Posts: 694
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Quote:
Originally Posted by notforsale
Not sure whats going on there. Maybe I could help more with pictures?
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I will try to get some tomorrow. Not sure I want evidence of my horrific welding on the web though. This whole repair is making me wonder what the next owner of the Jeep will be saying about me when they find it.
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11-05-2011, 10:20 PM
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#4
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Chattanooga Tn
Posts: 410
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sounds like your got your welder turned up a little to hot, and are burning thru the sheet metel? just guessing  with out picutres im not sure
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11-05-2011, 10:49 PM
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#5
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Kamloops, BC
Posts: 2,235
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Trying to weld sheet metal in a continuous bead, especially with a stick welder, is fighting an uphill battle. Try using short bursts to tack the crack in several spots and as mentioned, turn the machine down.
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11-05-2011, 10:58 PM
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#6
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Fairfield, CA
Posts: 814
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Dude stick welding sheet metal? You need very low voltage, amps, .023 wire or tig... With sheet metal you're not concerned about penetration...
As was said above, stick welding sheet metal is an uphill battle!
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11-06-2011, 12:33 AM
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#7
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Foresthill, CA
Posts: 694
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I welded the body on the drivers side mount just fine for some reason the steel in the grill is giving me problems. I am not trying long beads, just short tacks, same result. I don't have a MIG and I tried doing it TIG and could not get the two to flow together but I am no good at TIG. I was down at 22A and have gone up to 38A no difference. I was running AC, I will try DC tomorrow and take pics.
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11-06-2011, 01:00 AM
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#8
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Chattanooga Tn
Posts: 410
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stick still isn't the ideal but it can work. im just wondering did you clean the crack up at all, get any and all rust out?
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11-06-2011, 02:42 AM
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#9
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: chandler, az
Posts: 210
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my question is are u trying to weld aluminium? just curious
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11-06-2011, 03:31 AM
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#10
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Chattanooga Tn
Posts: 410
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thats a good question, but wouldn't aluminium break first instead of cracking?
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11-06-2011, 04:25 AM
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#11
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: chandler, az
Posts: 210
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well the reason i ask cause some those brackets are aluminum and it wont mend it would just get hot and melt lol
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11-06-2011, 05:04 AM
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#12
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Web Wheeler
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Central Texas
Posts: 5,070
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Maybe the OP only has a stick welder at his shop.
I have limited skills stick welding but many principles of welding apply whenever you weld with any machine.
1. Turn the machine down low.
2. Fit-up must be *tight* and no gap is best.
3. If you can back up the joint, a piece of 1/4" or thicker copper or aluminum clamped to the back of the joint minimizes burn-thru.
4. Short tacks.
Good luck!
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11-06-2011, 05:05 AM
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#13
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Chicago area
Posts: 2,084
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Welding sheet metal with stick is a real PIA but you could try flattening a small section of copper pipe and using that as a backing behind the weld. Copper has a high rate of thermal conductivity and will not stick to the metal.
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11-06-2011, 06:18 AM
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#14
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Kingston, Pa. 18704, Pennsylvania
Posts: 3,465
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A couple of things:
Stick welding is not a good choice for sheet metal. Use a MIG setup.
Clean it up so that everything is shiny.
There must be no gaps between the two pieces of metal.
Use DC current - not AC
If you don't have a MIG, take it to someone that does and throw them a couple of bucks to lay a bead for you. I would not waste my time burning it all up with a stick welder.
If you are trying to fill in a crack with a gap, take a piece of copper pipe, cut it long ways and flatten it out. Lay the copper underneath between the gap and clamp it on both sides and use it as a backer. The new weld will not stick to the copper and will help prevent burn through.
It's hard to see what you are trying to do without pictures.
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11-06-2011, 06:29 AM
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#15
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: chandler, az
Posts: 210
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x2 on that
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