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Unread 10-02-2002, 07:33 PM   #1
KG4PAM
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Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Lenoir City, TN
Posts: 186
weird oil leak

is it possible to "blow" out the rear main seal? could this be caused by a clogged breather? the reason i ask is my jeep started leaking yesterday. i changed the air cleaner on my mc2100 swap to a kind that does not have a fitting for a breather. originally, for a couple days, i left the breather hole open. this, of course, sprayed a light coat of oil on the underside of my hood. i "rigged" a temporary breather out of a piece of rubber hose stuffed with cotton. i popped the hood later to find that the pcv valve at th e rear of the valve cover had popped out. i figured out that my rigged breather was packed too tightly with cotton. i pulled out the cotton and put a poece of cloth over the hose instead. i am thinking that by this being clogged, crankcase pressure got too high and forced oil out the seal. any how, when i got home i had a large leak where i had parked. i replaced my rear oil seal earlier this year, and the underside of the cj looked like it did before i fixed the seal. in other words, coated from the rear of the engine to the transfer case. the concentration of the leak seems to be where the tranny meets the bellhousing. something was slinging the oil, bcuz there is oil coming into the floor around the screws holding down the tranny cover on the floor between the floorboards. also there is oil on the top of the catalytic converter and the exhaust pipe. i have not noticed any clutch slippage to indicate that oil has reached the disc. sorry for being so long winded, but hopefully some of yall can help. thanks in advance! jairus

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'81 CJ-7 Got it when I was 16!
'06 Hummer H3, boulder gray, Adventure Package(electric rear locker and 70:1 crawl ratio BONE STOCK)
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Unread 10-03-2002, 06:03 PM   #2
jadams68
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1984 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Downingtown, PA
Posts: 2,898
All of the symptoms do indeed point to the rear main seal.
After I replaced my RMS, I had so much crankcase pressure from a blown ring in #4, that oil came out of everywhere...dipstick tube, distributor gasket...bad scene.

I rebuilt the engine and my leaks were gone.

I'd redo the main seal.
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Unread 10-04-2002, 01:59 PM   #3
KG4PAM
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Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Lenoir City, TN
Posts: 186
thanks for the reply! that is what it looks like to me as well, althought i was hoping for a a possible other solution. arghhhhhh!!!!!!! sometimes i want to push that jeep off a cliff... thanks for the suggestion, anyhow...
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'81 CJ-7 Got it when I was 16!
'06 Hummer H3, boulder gray, Adventure Package(electric rear locker and 70:1 crawl ratio BONE STOCK)
'71 Kaiser-Jeep M35A2 Deuce and a Half cargo truck, with winch. <for sale>
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Unread 10-04-2002, 02:03 PM   #4
jadams68
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1984 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Downingtown, PA
Posts: 2,898
My '85 leaked from every possible place known to an AMC engineer.

I tried EVERYTHING to keep up with them and finally bit the bullet and pulled the engine and had it professionally rebuilt.

Never had an issue since...it's like a brand new CJ.
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Unread 10-04-2002, 10:24 PM   #5
werewolf7111
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Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: nc
Posts: 46
I feel for you- chasing leaks can be demoralizing at best

anyhoo- heres my recommendation on what you may want to try

and if some of this sounds strange, its because I generally remove SAE and OEM parts and use industrial components to upgrade and failures are rare.
FIRST- lets do root cause ( according to both CR( chicago rawhide) and National- the seals should not be "blown"( due to normal pressure in an engine)out so since you said you replaced it earlier- lets find the cause
a) steam area and use UV dye to confirm the rear main is leaking
b) examine shaft for seal cutting( if you can feel it with a fingernail- it will cause premature seal failure
c) check PTO with a dial indicator- if you have more than .005 radial deflection- then the shaft itself is going to cause premature seal failure

possible remedies

assuming the shaft isnt seal worn or exceeding deflection

a GARLOC "closure" seal is 100 times the effectiveness of a standard OEM seal

also a bearing isolator seal( a mechanical labrinth seal used in industry)will also end the problem since this seal locks to the housing and the shaft and turns with it ( but you must have .375-.500 clearance before the flywheel to use it)

also, IF you ever decide to rebuild the engine- send the crank out and have plated with the ARMOLOY process and you can pretty much forget seal cutting and bearing scoring forever

hope this helps

joe MSME, PE.
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