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Unread 11-24-2011, 08:58 AM   #1
7179CJ5
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wedges or shims

has any one installed wedges or shims in the leaf springs? if so how hard is it and do you have to take the whole leaf spring assembly apart? does it go in the front of the axle or to the back of the axle? thanks in advanced.

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Unread 11-24-2011, 09:37 AM   #2
gojeepin
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Hmmm... I'm starting to think I need to put a section in my article about shims/wedges...

Quote:
Originally Posted by 7179CJ5 View Post
has any one installed wedges or shims in the leaf springs? if so how hard is it and do you have to take the whole leaf spring assembly apart? ...
Yes, many of us have installed shims. It's not hard and you shouldn't have to take the spring pack completely apart (although it would be a good time to do any maintenance between leaves).

I prefer remounting the perches but here's a good way to mount your wedges.
1) buy steel shims (not cast iron or aluminum)
2) buy new spring centering pins
3) take the spring pack off the vehicle
4) take the spring pack apart be removing the centering pin (clamp the leaves together)
5) put the new centering pin through the wedge then though the spring pack
6) tighten the nut on the centering pin (do not use the pin to draw the leaves together... that's what the clamps are for)
7) remount the spring

Quote:
Originally Posted by 7179CJ5 View Post
... does it go in the front of the axle or to the back of the axle? thanks in advanced.
The wide end of the wedge goes to the front (on the front axle) and front or back on the rear axle depending on what you're trying to do... raise pinion = wide side front and lower pinion = wide side back


Now, having said all that, I prefer remounting/welding the perches in the correct location at the desired angle.
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Unread 11-24-2011, 09:45 AM   #3
7179CJ5
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thanks for the info, i'm trying to fix the castor angle. just had some specs done to it and right now my passenger side is a .9 degrees and drivers side at .4 degrees.
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Unread 11-24-2011, 09:53 AM   #4
gojeepin
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Did you have the caster angle checked at an alignment shop? I'm assuming you have .9 * and .4* positive caster.

Do you have extended shackles installed? They will reduce your positive caster as well.
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Unread 11-24-2011, 10:50 AM   #5
nicknoty
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i have shims on mine the rear i have 4 deg aliminium shims i like them and the came with new leaf spring pack bolts. my front i have cast shims the cracked and i had to weld them they also came with bolts. i want to get a larger shim set for the front as my wheel doesn't return all the way back out of a turn. it used to not return at all till i adjusted with the shims.
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Unread 11-25-2011, 07:15 AM   #6
7179CJ5
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yes, had it done at a shop. gave me a print out on my specs camber, castor, and toe. castor .9 and .4* positive. the artical in your link said that they should be 4.0 to 6.0 positive, so i'm way off. I do not have longer shackles, the originals were used with the lift, they should've been changed out as well. if i decide to keep the lift, i think the longer shackles and the shims should do the trick. still deciding on what to do.
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Unread 11-25-2011, 07:34 AM   #7
Area.3.Fiftyone
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 7179CJ5 View Post
i think the longer shackles and the shims should do the trick. still deciding on what to do.
Longer shackles will make your problem worse not better.

Positive caster means the axle is turned more towards the rear of the vehicle. If you think about it, you would be rotating the axle more towards the front of the vehicle if you install longer shackles. That is unless you have installed an SRS (shackle reversal system and have the fixed mounts up front and the shackles in the rear).

As said, cutting and welding new perches is on is the preferred method but steel (not aluminum or cast) will suffice in a pinch.
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Unread 11-25-2011, 05:53 PM   #8
7179CJ5
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Yes you are right IronMaiden, i read the article by gojeepin, really great article, i was confused with the longer shackles helping the flex of the bigger springs with it helping the castor. the article mentioned a few ways to correct it. one was of course your suggestion of cutting and rewelding the perches, but i can't weld nor do i have the means to one. if i did, i would weld them closer to the front axle? the other suggestion was to rotate the C's, what does that mean, and how is it done?
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Unread 11-25-2011, 06:41 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 7179CJ5 View Post
Yes you are right IronMaiden, i read the article by gojeepin, really great article, i was confused with the longer shackles helping the flex of the bigger springs with it helping the castor. the article mentioned a few ways to correct it. one was of course your suggestion of cutting and rewelding the perches, but i can't weld nor do i have the means to one. if i did, i would weld them closer to the front axle? the other suggestion was to rotate the C's, what does that mean, and how is it done?
Rotating the C's is way out of your ability if you do not have a welder. The C's are the part of the axle where your balljoints bolt into, they are the C shaped pieces at both ends of your axle tubes. That requires a lot of grinding, measuring, aligning and rewelding.
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Unread 11-25-2011, 06:45 PM   #10
addicted2dunes
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Also, there is no reason you have to remove the spring pack to install shims. What I do is:

Jack one side of the axle up
Remove that tire
Remove u-bolts
Lower the jack until the axle seperates from the spring. If this cannot be done easily or safely then lower the jack slightly and use another jack on the spring to jack the spring away from the axle.
Then you'll clamp both sides of the spring, near center bolt with vice-grips
Remove center pin
Install shim and new center pin
Remove vice-grips
Align center pin with hole in perch
Reinstall u-bolts
Reinstall tire
Lower jack
Repeat on other side
Recheck torque on all u-bolts
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Unread 11-25-2011, 07:08 PM   #11
lucdog
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A "C" clamp can be used in place of vise-grips, you will only need one.

Bill
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Unread 11-25-2011, 08:58 PM   #12
gojeepin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by addicted2dunes View Post
Also, there is no reason you have to remove the spring pack to install shims...
True. I take them off because I like to inspect everything.
__________________
Vibration? Bump steer? Wandering? Read: Steering, suspension, and driveline basics. An article on how it works and where to look for problems.

83 CJ7, 4.1L 6cyl (4.0L bored .030" over), 35" tires, T-5 transmission, Dana 300 TC, Trussed AMC 20.
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Unread 11-26-2011, 10:46 AM   #13
7179CJ5
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thanks for the info guys, after considering some options on how to correct my steering issues, i'll have to see whats the best way to go. thanks again.
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Unread 11-26-2011, 11:12 AM   #14
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If you want to see pictures of the install process, click here and keep scrolling down.
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Unread 11-26-2011, 11:39 AM   #15
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I will add that it is advisable to replace u-bolts, not reuse them. I have run shims in the rear for many years without problems. Recently I noticed a noise in the rear axle, one of the heads from the centering pin had sheared. I was a good time to go up one size. I think they were 3/8" and are now 7/16" pins. Just a reminder to have a look under there once in a while.
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