[thewolff]

Can someone please help me with my Weber problem?

I see this is a very popular topic. Before you say it, I have searched this site and the WWW. I have read so much about Weber problems, my brain hurts.

History;
Had standard issues with Carter BBD.
Purchased and installed Weber 38.
Stock mechanical fuel pump.
Installed regulator and pressure guage. 3.5 PSI.
Idles good, cold and warm.
Stomp on the pedal and carb seems to run out of fuel.
Bowl vent is clear to canister.
Canister vent tube is clear to tank.
Tried with gas cap off, same results.
Fuel filter is level and return to tank line is on top and clear to tank.

Larger jet? Adjust air fuel mixture? Hoping for the simple dumb thing.

Thank you
Wolff

[thewolff]

Update;

Removed the Mr. Gasket FPR as someone suggested in another thread. Same reults.

Trying to remove carb top now to check bowl float.

Planning on ordering a Carter 4070 electric fuel pump as another suggested and ditch the FPR.

[GlennLever]

I have no solution for you.

I'm not happy with my Webber.

They seem touchy, very temperamental, and there are a heck of a lot of threads on how to tune (fix) your Webber.

Just my two cents.

[gmakra]

Gents you may or may not know not all Webers are created equal. There are Chinese and some other knock offs out on the market so if you think you got a really good deal on your Weber you didnt.

[mcmud]

Welcome to JF.

You may very well be running low on fuel and there are several reasons why, a few that come to mind.

Low fuel level in the bowl. Idle would be fine while the enrichment system would grow progressively weaker and tip in at the axillary being delayed.

Possible causes would include a float that is set too low or too much fuel restriction by means of the FPR. Most all of us have found that while using the OEM filter and return line there is no need of the FPR.

Inadequately sized idle jets and/or reliance on having the speed screw set to deep in order to supplement a weak mix at idle and progression will certainly suffer. Any more than 1/2 turn in on that screw will certainly mislead, in fact 1/2 turn allows a flow from the first progression hole.

It isn't at all uncommon that a new install would be subject to having a clog in the idle (low speed) jets causing a weak hesitation, this symptom would occur at the onset of attempts to accelerate while the previous mentioned would be more likely to occur a tad later in the progression, seemingly like a bog or hunting.

I find a speed screw setting shy of 1/2 turn inward while the mixture screws are set to one turn out most accommodating.

A look to and inside the idle jets to verify their size and condition would be the first place I'd look, then the float
and mains.... after bypassing or opening up the restriction at the FPR or eliminating it entirely.

[thewolff]

Thanks for the push in the right direction. Is it safe to say that you could run a stock mechanical fuel pump with the 1 in 2 out filter on a Weber? If so I will focus on the float adjustment and the jetting. I was heading down the road of a Carter 4070 electric fuel pump.

I really appreciate the feed back!

[thewolff]

Also,

FYI; I will miss my BBD for one reason. I hooked up the "idle up" solinoid to a switch in the dash. I used it on hill climbs as well as street driving at stops on hills. I will figure out a way to integrate to the Weber once I get it running right. Very frickin handy!!!

[wellmax]

something does not look right about that fuel filter being in such a low position,
the (one in two out fuel filter) on my engine i located at the top of the valve cover, more on a level field with the carb, do not know if that makes a difference or not but it runs pretty good.

also i change out my fuel filter often, but i may have lots of bad stuff in my old jeep tank.
each time i have ever had carb problems: engine dying at stops or not wanting to idle, that is the first thing i do, change fuel filter

i am no expert by any means: but on each side of the carb there is a cap screw, take it off and i guess the jet is located under it, one on each side,

I take them out and blow carb cleaner in each hole,

with new fuel filter and jet cleaning, carb runs better

just what i have done over the years,

also the old jeep likes high test gas, use only non ethonal fuel, give it a little high test from time to time and seafoam fuel conditioner, if it has to set for long periods.

keep that little air filter clean and well oiled, if its an oil type, I replaced it with one that is non oil.
too much work for me, keeping it clean.

[mcmud]

Originally Posted by thewolff

.......Is it safe to say that you could run a stock mechanical fuel pump with the 1 in 2 out filter on a Weber?

Entirely safe, much preferred.

I've never relied on an aftermarket FPR in sixteen years of running Webers. Always with the OEM filter/return and all but one with use of the Viton needle, that one is my 38DGMS on the daily driver. It still has the original brass needle set, as a test.

The OEM filter is a FPR and the return line is the relief for vapor, pulses and excess fuel. While the in-service spec of the OEM pump is 4-5 psi when used on the 4.2. It wouldn't take much of a bleed off to satisfy the need of the Weber.

All manner of plugging, clamping even inserts have been used as a means of restriction at the return line tube in order that they may build enough pressure to utilize the gizmo.

[thewolff]

mcmud
Weber should kick you back some perks or something. I have read so many of your posts regarding Weber carbs.

I will check the float. I stopped mid way struggling with the choke linkage. I will hit it again tomorrow. It makes sense to me if it was set too low from the fac, the bowl would run out when stomping the pedal. I wish somethings like this could be bolt on...turn key. That would be boring, i guess.

Thanks again.

[GlennLever]

Originally Posted by gmakra

Gents you may or may not know not all Webers are created equal. There are Chinese and some other knock offs out on the market so if you think you got a really good deal on your Weber you didnt.

Purchased mine from Carbs unlimited and is not a knock off. It is their kit K551-S and cost $312.94.

Your right it was not a good deal, but not because it was a knock off.

Sorry to buck the trend of Weber love afairs but I hate this carb.

[JrTjK]

Those of you experiencing problems, have you tried calling and speaking to any techs? http://www.redlineweber.com/ I know a few guys locally that had issues with their Webers until they called and all are currently running well.

[thewolff]

I like that idea. I will call today or maybe tomorrow with the holiday. I purchased mine from 4 wheel parts, $339 + Tx. Hope it's legit.

I agree that there is a lot of love for the Weber but at the same time a lot of threads.

I am obsessed and will make it run right.

Thanks

[swatson454]

Originally Posted by GlennLever

Your right it was not a good deal, but not because it was a knock off.

Sorry to buck the trend of Weber love afairs but I hate this carb.

Originally Posted by JrTjK

...I know a few guys locally that had issues with their Webers until they called and all are currently running well.

GlennLever, et al, I sure hope we can help you get it straightened out.

The 38 on a 4.2 is a really sweet unit. The carb is picky as hell about the throttle plate position though, and it sometimes only takes the smallest of vacuum leaks to exceed the maximum throttle opening at idle.

Running manifold vacuum to the distributor and/or no more than a 600 rpm idle can often help on stubborn set-ups. It's not like an American carb with a long and forgiving transition slot where you just set whatever idle speed you want, adjust the mixture screws a little and you're done.

Like mcmud said, fuel-pressure regulators are not your friend. The adaptor plates and linkage can be a PITA but it's a great carb.

They remind me of the really hot chic that TRIES to be a b1tch on the first date. Just smile and get her another glass of wine. You'll have her bedded in no time


Shawn

[swatson454]

Wolff,

Are you just matting the throttle while in the driveway? Does it stall right out of the gate and then try to pick back up as it revs higher?