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Unread 11-11-2010, 09:11 AM   #91
ChaseB
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When turning in the idle speed screws, how far do I turn in? It says until it "stops". So vague. Should the spring on the screw be compressed all the way?

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Unread 11-11-2010, 09:19 AM   #92
swatson454
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The end of the mixture screws are tapered and will seat when screwed in (lightly so the taper isn't damaged). Count your way out from there. When discussing the setting of the idle speed screw, with the choke disengaged, the count in begins the moment the speed screw contacts the linkage.

Shawn
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Unread 11-27-2010, 10:21 AM   #93
ChaseB
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Still learning as I try to tune this Weber properly......Printed out so many posts in this thread to study before I attempt again on Monday. Before I begin tuning again on Monday I'd like to get a few things straight.

Does the idle speed screw need to be set before adjusting the mixture screws?

Can I start turning mixture screws without the idle speed screw touching the plate?

My distributor is running off of manifold vacuum, is that okay when setting up the weber?

Should the air cleaner assembly be on while tuning the carb?
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Unread 11-27-2010, 12:33 PM   #94
BigOrange90YJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChaseB View Post
Still learning as I try to tune this Weber properly......Printed out so many posts in this thread to study before I attempt again on Monday. Before I begin tuning again on Monday I'd like to get a few things straight.

Does the idle speed screw need to be set before adjusting the mixture screws?
First make sure vac adv is disconnected. You want the idle speed screw to be at a point where you get no vacuum out of the S port. but to start off you should set the idle speed screw less then what the instructions say is the max (Ex. 2 or 2.5 turns in)
Can I start turning mixture screws without the idle speed screw touching the plate?
No, wait for the engine to warm up and wait for the choke to be fully open. Once the choke opens and the engine is warm you should be able to correctly set the idle speed screw and it should be making some sort of contact.
My distributor is running off of manifold vacuum, is that okay when setting up the weber?
I say disconnect and plug it. You don't want anything to come into play with your timing while tuning
Should the air cleaner assembly be on while tuning the carb?
I just put the filter on but not the clips; so if I need to check and make sure the choke is open or anything else i need to peak at is easier. It needs to be on because it will be on when you are driving and does slightly restrict air flow.
Hope that helps clear somethings up.
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Unread 11-27-2010, 12:38 PM   #95
swatson454
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He's tuning a 38 so his maximum speed screw setting should be no more than a half turn in. Also, since he's also running a D.U.I., which is set up to run on manifold vacuum, he needs to make all carb adjustments with the distributor connected to manifold vacuum.

Chase, since it's been fussy, I'd recommend pulling it off and having a look-see at where the throttle plate is in relation to the progression hole. Also check to see if both plates are the same. I have a feeling that the primary is open more than the secondary.

Edit: What's up Big O


.
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Unread 11-27-2010, 12:44 PM   #96
ChaseB
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swatson454 View Post
He's tuning a 38 so his maximum speed screw setting should be no more than a half turn in. Also, since he's also running a D.U.I., which is set up to run on manifold vacuum, he needs to make all carb adjustments with the distributor connected to manifold vacuum.

Chase, since it's been fussy, I'd recommend pulling it off and having a look-see at where the throttle plate is in relation to the progression hole. Also check to see if both plates are the same. I have a feeling that the primary is open more than the secondary.

.
At a half turn in, my idle is too low for my liking.....maybe I didn't have my mixture screws set right but I'll double check again. If the primary is open more than the secondary how do I go about correcting the issue?

Thanks Shawn for your patience lol. I hear complaints about webers all the time....I want to say that I've been really impressed with my carb so far. It runs amazingly well off-road, idles great.....just when mashing the gas hard I get a hesitation....gradual acceleration isn't a problem. I'm confident that I'll eventually get the issue sorted!

Thanks for the responses BigOrange and Shawn!
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Unread 11-27-2010, 07:13 PM   #97
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swatson454 View Post
He's tuning a 38 so his maximum speed screw setting should be no more than a half turn in. Also, since he's also running a D.U.I., which is set up to run on manifold vacuum, he needs to make all carb adjustments with the distributor connected to manifold vacuum.

Chase, since it's been fussy, I'd recommend pulling it off and having a look-see at where the throttle plate is in relation to the progression hole. Also check to see if both plates are the same. I have a feeling that the primary is open more than the secondary.

Edit: What's up Big O
.
That's what I get for not reading the whole thread. Didn't know he was running DUI.

Not much Shawn, I've just been lurking around some of these weber threads. Good info you're givin' these guys.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ChaseB View Post
At a half turn in, my idle is too low for my liking.....maybe I didn't have my mixture screws set right but I'll double check again.
Don'y worry about your idle speed being too low. As long as the engine is running you can tune it. After it is correctly tuned you can get picky with the idle speed.
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Unread 11-27-2010, 07:24 PM   #98
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigOrange90YJ View Post
That's what I get for not reading the whole thread. Didn't know he was running DUI.

Not much Shawn, I've just been lurking around some of these weber threads. Good info you're givin' these guys.



Don'y worry about your idle speed being too low. As long as the engine is running you can tune it. After it is correctly tuned you can get picky with the idle speed.
what he said, idle speed is set it and forget it, the mix screws take care of your idle.
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Unread 12-01-2010, 07:21 PM   #99
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Hey all -

Brand new to the forum and to Jeep'ing in general. Bought a barn find about a month ago from Craigslist... 85 CJ7, 40K original miles, Army Green with Tan hard top and full doors, 4.2L, 5Spd, stock suspension with brand new 30" Wrangler Durawalls... Unbelievable condition inside and no body damage or rust (aside from a slight dent in the hood where they flipped it back on the windshield. Aside from the usual trim items that needed updating (window kits, hood kit, etc.) the jeep is beautiful. Plan on refreshing the paint, fixing a crack around the back window on the roof and lifting it modestly (3-4" w/ 33's). The Air Pump System and Cat was ripped out very crudely and the Jeep came with one hell of an exhaust leak.

Since the purchase, I have rebuilt the entire steering system, exhaust system (maintaing the stock intake and manifold, however changing the gaskets), brakes, replaced the water and fuel pump and performed a thorough tune-up. She still had a hell of a miss and took forever to warm up, so we moved on to clean the carb. Apparently whatever was clogging up the Carter was also holding the damn thing together as after we cleaned it out really good, it fell apart and started pouring gas from the throttle.

After reading this thread in its entirety as well as the EMPI VS 32/36 thread, I made the decision to go with the Weber 34. Several PM's later with SWatson, I felt absolutely affirmed in my decision. (A BIG "Thank You" goes out to Shawn for his immediate responses and invaluable advice.) We installed the 38 today (Nuttering as we went - allowing for a total removal of the remaining air pump crap and the useless vaccum lines), following Shawn's step by step guide to the letter... By the way, although it took us 3/4 turns to get to the same visual as in picture #1, Shawn, we decided after the carb was mounted that we would call 1/2 a turn as our max throttle adjustment, regardless. We got everything installed, dialed the timing back to 8deg BTDC and started to tune.

We came to find out that regardless of how far out we turned the mixtures, there was absolutely no effect. After lots of head scratching we grabbed the can of carb cleaner and started checking for vacuum leaks. Sure enough, there are two signifigant leaks around the plates (This despite having spent over 2 hours sanding the crap out of them with fine grit sand paper and oil).

The studs were really lose going into the top plate when we put it on the intake yesterday. We assumed that the loc-tite would firm them up and that they wouldn't leak so we set them in last night and let them firm up overnight. Apparently, it wasn't good enough. The Front-Passenger side stud is leaking tremendously and there seems to be a small leak right around the PCV tube on the front side (although I cannot say definitively that this is not coming from the throttle shaft above that.)

Tomorrow, we plan on taking it all apart, switching to a coarser grit of sand paper, re-sanding and replacing the studs that shipped with oversized ones (My father-in-law has an amazing tap and die set). We also ordered the bad boy Viton needle and seat and 55's as it shipped with 45's - Once these are in and the leaks are gone, I will update further.

Thanks, again, Shawn for all that you have helped us with so far. I know I thanked you privately, but you are due public accolades.
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Unread 12-01-2010, 07:31 PM   #100
ChaseB
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Nice post! Something I'll look into checking out......so you just spray the carb cleaner around the intake where the carb mounts correct?
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Unread 12-01-2010, 07:42 PM   #101
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChaseB View Post
Nice post! Something I'll look into checking out......so you just spray the carb cleaner around the intake where the carb mounts correct?
Yep. Put the straw on it and let it stream. If there's a leak, the jeep will shudder as if it is going to die.

The straw lets you narrow down where the leak is relatively precisely.

Thanks for all of your back and forth with Shawn. The dialogue has been very helpful for me.

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Unread 12-01-2010, 07:44 PM   #102
ChaseB
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Originally Posted by CACooper View Post
Yep. Put the straw on it and let it stream. If there's a leak, the jeep will shudder as if it is going to die.

The straw lets you narrow down where the leak is relatively precisely.

Thanks for all of your back and forth with Shawn. The dialogue has been very helpful for me.

Glad it was of some help! Shawn got me set up perfectly! Hopefully the threads will help those considering a Weber in the future!
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Unread 12-01-2010, 10:10 PM   #103
swatson454
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You guys are way too kind.
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Unread 12-01-2010, 10:55 PM   #104
BigOrange90YJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CACooper View Post
Hey all -

Brand new to the forum and to Jeep'ing in general. Bought a barn find about a month ago from Craigslist... 85 CJ7, 40K original miles, Army Green with Tan hard top and full doors, 4.2L, 5Spd, stock suspension with brand new 30" Wrangler Durawalls... Unbelievable condition inside and no body damage or rust (aside from a slight dent in the hood where they flipped it back on the windshield. Aside from the usual trim items that needed updating (window kits, hood kit, etc.) the jeep is beautiful. Plan on refreshing the paint, fixing a crack around the back window on the roof and lifting it modestly (3-4" w/ 33's). The Air Pump System and Cat was ripped out very crudely and the Jeep came with one hell of an exhaust leak.

Since the purchase, I have rebuilt the entire steering system, exhaust system (maintaing the stock intake and manifold, however changing the gaskets), brakes, replaced the water and fuel pump and performed a thorough tune-up. She still had a hell of a miss and took forever to warm up, so we moved on to clean the carb. Apparently whatever was clogging up the Carter was also holding the damn thing together as after we cleaned it out really good, it fell apart and started pouring gas from the throttle.

After reading this thread in its entirety as well as the EMPI VS 32/36 thread, I made the decision to go with the Weber 34. Several PM's later with SWatson, I felt absolutely affirmed in my decision. (A BIG "Thank You" goes out to Shawn for his immediate responses and invaluable advice.) We installed the 38 today (Nuttering as we went - allowing for a total removal of the remaining air pump crap and the useless vaccum lines), following Shawn's step by step guide to the letter... By the way, although it took us 3/4 turns to get to the same visual as in picture #1, Shawn, we decided after the carb was mounted that we would call 1/2 a turn as our max throttle adjustment, regardless. We got everything installed, dialed the timing back to 8deg BTDC and started to tune.

We came to find out that regardless of how far out we turned the mixtures, there was absolutely no effect. After lots of head scratching we grabbed the can of carb cleaner and started checking for vacuum leaks. Sure enough, there are two signifigant leaks around the plates (This despite having spent over 2 hours sanding the crap out of them with fine grit sand paper and oil).

The studs were really lose going into the top plate when we put it on the intake yesterday. We assumed that the loc-tite would firm them up and that they wouldn't leak so we set them in last night and let them firm up overnight. Apparently, it wasn't good enough. The Front-Passenger side stud is leaking tremendously and there seems to be a small leak right around the PCV tube on the front side (although I cannot say definitively that this is not coming from the throttle shaft above that.)

Tomorrow, we plan on taking it all apart, switching to a coarser grit of sand paper, re-sanding and replacing the studs that shipped with oversized ones (My father-in-law has an amazing tap and die set). We also ordered the bad boy Viton needle and seat and 55's as it shipped with 45's - Once these are in and the leaks are gone, I will update further.

Thanks, again, Shawn for all that you have helped us with so far. I know I thanked you privately, but you are due public accolades.
When I first installed my weber, I went through two sets of plates, the second set i sanded down a ton till they work perfectly level. I also had to use bigger studs to get it to mount properly.

Make certain the EGR is not bleeding air also, mine seemed to work, i cleaned it, but in the end.. I Just removed it and made a plate to cover the EGR hole

Quote:
Originally Posted by ChaseB View Post
Nice post! Something I'll look into checking out......so you just spray the carb cleaner around the intake where the carb mounts correct?
yeah, or brake cleaner, or a lubricant. If you use a lubricant it may temporarily fix an air leak.
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Unread 12-01-2010, 11:13 PM   #105
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigOrange90YJ View Post
When I first installed my weber, I went through two sets of plates, the second set i sanded down a ton till they work perfectly level. I also had to use bigger studs to get it to mount properly.

Make certain the EGR is not bleeding air also, mine seemed to work, i cleaned it, but in the end.. I Just removed it and made a plate to cover the EGR hole


yeah, or brake cleaner, or a lubricant. If you use a lubricant it may temporarily fix an air leak.
Looks like I am in for the same... especially if I can't get all of the loc-tite out.

For making such an amazing carb, they sure don't do the hardware items well, do they?

The EGR seems not to be affecting it at all (negatively or positively). Will post pics with the configuration we have setup tomorrow.

Thanks for the input!
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