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Unread 12-13-2013, 03:50 PM   #601
uptillnow
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[QUOTE=supersport126;18514137]Ok someone please help me just a sec, I'm adjusting the choke today and noticed this unplugged hole!! Now, I've messed with this carb quite a bit over the last year, and never noticed the empty hole just below the "s" port. That leaves me to believe it prolly had a brass plug in there. swatson454"s pic above looks like it may be plugged? Please chime in and tell me if this hole should have a plug... Funny cause just noticed it and it's all the sudden running like ****



Supersport
Your hose is connected to the "S" ported vacuum source.

I have never seen a hole below that "S" port.

On some of the older "O.E." castings had a stud that went into that hole.

Does this hole suck, vacuum? All the time? Only on acceleration?

If not don't worry. If so, plug it with a lead shot gun pellet and a little gasket sealer?

Let us know what this might be.

UPTILLNOW


Post Script: Swanson has a 38-DGES and yours appears to be a 32/36 DGEV
If you have a 38-DGES this would be your mixture screw missing.

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Unread 12-13-2013, 04:41 PM   #602
supersport126
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What!, no it's a 38 I swear I've never seen it before either! And I put this carb on, jetted it, tuned it, with some of your help I believe. The pic two posts earlier shows same hole I just recall seeing it before.
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Unread 12-14-2013, 03:02 AM   #603
John Strenk
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[quote=uptillnow;18514633]
Quote:
Originally Posted by supersport126 View Post
.....

Post Script: Swanson has a 38-DGES and yours appears to be a 32/36 DGEV
If you have a 38-DGES this would be your mixture screw missing.
Quote:
Originally Posted by supersport126 View Post
What!, no it's a 38 I swear I've never seen it before either! And I put this carb on, jetted it, tuned it, with some of your help I believe. The pic two posts earlier shows same hole I just recall seeing it before.
I think he means the hole next to the idle mixture.
weberwronghole.jpg  
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Unread 12-14-2013, 04:32 AM   #604
Matt1981CJ7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by supersport126 View Post
Ok someone please help me just a sec, I'm adjusting the choke today and noticed this unplugged hole!! Now, I've messed with this carb quite a bit over the last year, and never noticed the empty hole just below the "s" port. That leaves me to believe it prolly had a brass plug in there. swatson454"s pic above looks like it may be plugged? Please chime in and tell me if this hole should have a plug... Funny cause just noticed it and it's all the sudden running like ****

If there's vacuum at the hole, either at idle or at higher RPMs, then plug it. If not, then don't worry about it.

Matt
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Unread 12-14-2013, 12:14 PM   #605
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You can always drive a piece of lead shot into the hole if you've determined that it's leaking. I'm thinking the tackle box might be a good place to look.
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Unread 12-22-2013, 05:33 AM   #606
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ok.. what the heck is a "79 Dizzy"?
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Unread 12-22-2013, 05:51 AM   #607
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Originally Posted by frhrwa View Post
ok.. what the heck is a "79 Dizzy"?
It's the non-computer distributer used in a 1979 CJ.

These models had over twice the centrifugal advance as the computerized versions had. They give a Nuttered engine a nice little performance boost over the original distributer (aka: "dizzy").

Hope this helps

Matt
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Unread 01-17-2014, 01:39 PM   #608
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Question for you wise gentlemen. I was checking the choke on my 32/36 yesterday because the ol' girl has been hard to start. I don't think it is closing at all. I found a thread where mcmud lays out how to adjust the choke and am planning to do that. Before I do that though, I need to check to see if the electric choke is getting a signal at all. I rewired everything with a painless harness when I replaced my tub and am not sure I ever checked the choke. Well in the process of looking things over I noticed my carb (which the PO installed) is stamped DGAV33B1. I say to my self "Self, DGAV should be a water carb, but you have an electric carb. That is odd" So now my question is have you heard of converting a water choke to an electric choke? Any issues of which I should be aware? I've seen the manual choke conversion kits and have considered switching to manual just so I have more control. Any thoughts? Thanks in advance.
20131027_143736_zpsf495b353.jpg

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Unread 01-17-2014, 02:58 PM   #609
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bdatkins View Post
Well in the process of looking things over I noticed my carb (which the PO installed) is stamped DGAV33B1. I say to my self "Self, DGAV should be a water carb, but you have an electric carb. That is odd" So now my question is have you heard of converting a water choke to an electric choke? Any issues of which I should be aware? I've seen the manual choke conversion kits and have considered switching to manual just so I have more control. Any thoughts? Thanks in advance.
Bdatkins,
I have found many many 32/36 DGAV's with electric chokes.

I understand that they COST LESS to bring into this country as water chokes and when assembing all the parts to make a conversion they install the electric choke element.

Here is what I got typed out for choke adjustments.

Electric Choke Adjustment:
The choking devise reduces the air flow into the carburetor and the linkage steps up the idle speed 3-400 RPM. When the engine is cold, this “choking” action will enrichen an already properly tuned engine. This automatic choke consists of an electrically-heated bimetallic coil that will heat and straighten when voltage is applied. Note: This electric choke does not sense engine heat but rather “time” voltage has been applied to it. The average time it takes to straighten the bimetallic strip is 3.5-4.5 minutes. The job of adjusting the choke is to find the time and amount of choking and match that to the time and temperatures it takes to bring the engine to its full operating temperature.
The amount of choking is determined from your already properly tuned hot engine, but in a cold condition.

#1
The engine and carburetor should be properly “tuned” or adjusted prior to adjusting the choke for a cold engine operation.

#2
The engine must be cold, typically the temperature when starting the engine in the morning after sitting all night.

#3
Loosen (about 1 ½ turns out each) the 3 screws holding the bezel or metal ring supporting the plastic choke element.

#4
With the choke butterfly closed, open the throttle lever and then release. This will activate the high idle linkage. The gap between the idle speed screw and the throttle lever should be approx ¼ inch.

#5
With the throttle lever opened or stepped up ¼” from the choke linkage, rotate the plastic choke housing so the choke butterfly plates open, then rotate the same until the plates almost completely close. This adjustment is made from the engine cold, the choke plates held closed and the throttle linkage opened and on the high idle choke linkage, opening the choke butterfly and closing to a slightly closed position.

#6
Retighten the bezel ring just tight enough so the choke won’t turn. Bottoming out the screws only bends the ring and then comes loose.

#7
Your job is to now determine the timing of the choke operation with the time the engine comes to operating temperature. Adjust the choke rotation closed or open in 1/8 turn increments. Closed (ccw) for a longer duration of choking and open (cw) for lesser duration of choking.

UPTILLNOW
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Unread 01-17-2014, 03:09 PM   #610
Matt1981CJ7
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I'm pretty sure a DGAV can be converted to a DGEV. (edit: UTN beat me to this one)

The electric choke should be connected to an oil pressure switch. If so, the engine will need to be running in order to check for power at the choke.

Personally, I like the convenience of an electric choke. Others prefer the control of a manual.

Good luck,

Matt
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Unread 01-17-2014, 03:55 PM   #611
bdatkins
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Thanks guys! Ill try to get into it this weekend and let you know how it works out.
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Unread 03-18-2014, 03:43 PM   #612
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Ordered a set of micro drill bits from Amazon for 6 bucks; the price of 1 idle jet minus shipping, tax, etc. Pretty sure the 38 I've got has .45mm jets and I live at 10 feet above sea level so... The smallest bit is .61 mm so that's the starting point for my experiment. I've read 20 or so pages of the posts here and it's all amazing stuff. Yes, I read the quote about the drill bits too! I've taken lots of notes. I just thought I'd post this now to stir it up a bit since it's been a while since anyone weighed in. Cheers, Dan
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Unread 03-19-2014, 02:41 PM   #613
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Success!!!! Well, for starters the bits on Amazon were mis-labeled... they are numbered drills 61 thru 80 (20 pcs.) which is perfect for idle jets since they are .40mm - .95mm. A #74 is a .60mm bit and that's what I used. The stock jets were indeed .45's. It idles perfect now at about 600 rpm. Vacuum gauge steady at 20" hg and mixtures screws at 3/4 turn. Starts instantly, pulls very strong and most importantly it idles great. Thanks everyone for all the great information here. Next step is the 4.0 head swap.
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Unread 03-22-2014, 07:17 PM   #614
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Drove it around all afternoon. Starts better than ever; fires right up. Idles smoothly when cold from the first start up (used to die and took a few tries to get it to stay running). Pulls smooth & strong. I can't get over the difference; it's like a new Jeep.

IMHO no Weber 38 with .45 idle jets should ever be shipped for use with a 6 cylinder Jeep anywhere near sea level; at least not without a warning label! This has taken a long time to diagnose and probably never would have been without the great guys and information on this forum. Thanks again!!
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Unread 03-22-2014, 07:37 PM   #615
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Great news, captkhaos!!

Another success story compliments of Shawn, McMud, and UTN, among others. I lift my glass.....

Matt
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