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Unread 10-16-2013, 12:26 PM   #571
Hacken
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Uptilnow,

I have zero vac at s with the speed screw at one and a quarter any more than that it starts to move the needle on my vac guage. Mix screw is 1 7/8 out from close. As far as timing goes i have been around the world trying to get rid of the dead spot. Currently im at 8 with vac plugged. Ive been up to 16 and all the way down to zero. Also i dont hear much mention about redlines instructions that say set at 12* btdc and leave advance unhooked. Any reason for that?

As far as my primary idle im not sure i have not changed any and its a k551-ge through carbs unlimited. Is 75 stock so to speak?

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Unread 10-16-2013, 12:34 PM   #572
uptillnow
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swatson454 View Post
The test I'm waiting for is a CDI vs a stealth HEI with an aftermarket module. I find that pretty interesting.
Shawn
Shawn,
Not sure what you mean.

A massive haza gauza Multi Spark with a 135mJ coil compared to "an aftermarket module" (?).

I must need some more coffee... This is what I had and was better than the Duracrap.

Let me know where I went dumb here..

UPTILLNOW
gm2durasparkconverter.jpg

heiwire01.gif

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Unread 10-16-2013, 12:48 PM   #573
uptillnow
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hacken View Post
Uptilnow,

I have zero vac at s with the speed screw at one and a quarter any more than that it starts to move the needle on my vac guage. Mix screw is 1 7/8 out from close. As far as timing goes i have been around the world trying to get rid of the dead spot. Currently im at 8 with vac plugged. Ive been up to 16 and all the way down to zero. Also i dont hear much mention about redlines instructions that say set at 12* btdc and leave advance unhooked. Any reason for that?

As far as my primary idle im not sure i have not changed any and its a k551-ge through carbs unlimited. Is 75 stock so to speak?
Hey Hack,
Yes, my experience has been slightly less than one and a half turns in before the needle moves on the vacuum gauge.

A check would be to loosen the nut on the primary throttle shaft one turn out, tap tap tap on that throttle shaft and tighten that nut FINGER tight, as tight as you can with your fingers, then one or two flats on that nut tighter.

Re check your turns in, with ZERO vacuum and I would guess that it should be closer to the 1 1/2 turns in on that speed screw. (whew)

Then find your "Lean Best Idle" where ever you wind up, but looking for 2 turns out with the mixture screw.

The initial timing with stock type ignition is 12* (ish). "S" ported vacuum.

The initial timing with manifold vacuum would be around 8*

Try this out and we will see if there is any improvement.

UPTILLNOW
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Unread 10-16-2013, 02:45 PM   #574
Hacken
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Thanks for all the info thus far. I appreciate everyone replying so quickly. Ill check that throttle nut as soon as i get a chance and get back to you.
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Unread 10-16-2013, 03:27 PM   #575
DoubleDown
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Does anyone have a part number for a pre-computer controlled distributor ?
I Nuttered my '83 and would like to use said distributor, but at autozone the part number is the same no matter which year CJ7 you type in.
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Unread 10-16-2013, 03:39 PM   #576
uptillnow
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DoubleDown View Post
Does anyone have a part number for a pre-computer controlled distributor ?
I Nuttered my '83 and would like to use said distributor, but at autozone the part number is the same no matter which year CJ7 you type in.
1981 and older 258 4.2
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/we...93/index2.html
post #16

Matt say's
NAPA sells them. Be sure you can see the correct advance slot labels thru the little peep hole in the top of the dizzy.
My NAPA had to pull 3 of them before we found one with the correct. head.
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Unread 10-17-2013, 06:55 PM   #577
Hacken
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Quote:
Hack,

If you are using the original computer-controlled dizzy, your dead spot under load may be caused by too little centrifugal advance. Those dizzys only had about 8 degrees of centrifugal.

A pre-computer Motorcraft dizzy (1981 or older) will give you the option of running up to 18 degrees of centrifugal, and will wake your old engine right up.
My dizzy has a number two through the window. Does that mean i only have 2 degrees of centrifugal advance? I ask because i would hate to spend $60 for a jet kit if the Dizzy is the problem. the jeep idles very smooth, a little slow, but smooth. Which leads me to the question, after the lean best idle is determined, and everything is running great, is it ok to bump your idle up with the speed screw? Meaning that i would be pulling a little vacuum at the "S" port.
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Unread 10-17-2013, 07:25 PM   #578
swatson454
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Hacken,

I think I'd cool my jets on the kit (get it?... ok, lame) It sounds like you have a good tune on the carb. I'd jump on the ignition curve at this point. Those factory curves are so terrible, it's worth doing anyways because there's no downside.

If you still have the flat spot and you're sporting a 75 idle jet, the float is no more than 18mm and you're not running a cheap regulator, I'll send you my F-6 emulsion tubes to try.


Shawn
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Unread 10-17-2013, 10:12 PM   #579
Hacken
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Shawn,

Sounds good ill try to pick up a dizzy this weekend and see what happens.

Quote:
Which leads me to the question, after the lean best idle is determined, and everything is running great, is it ok to bump your idle up with the speed screw? Meaning that i would be pulling a little vacuum at the "S" port.

Last edited by Hacken; 10-23-2013 at 05:51 AM..
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Unread 10-18-2013, 05:25 AM   #580
Matt1981CJ7
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Here's the advance head you are looking for. Notice it has a 13* slot and a 18* slot. I ran my 258 on the 18* side.

Good luck,

Matt
dizzyrework4.jpg  
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Unread 10-18-2013, 11:49 AM   #581
uptillnow
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hacken View Post
Which leads me to the question, after the lean best idle is determined, and everything is running great, is it ok to bump your idle up with the speed screw? Meaning that i would be pulling a little vacuum at the "S" port.
Hey Hacken,
You have allot of information coming your way right now.

My suggestion was to just check out your carb set-up. 1/2 turns in, ZERO vacuum at idle, mixture screws "lean best idle" around 2 turns out and enough initial timing for it to set-up the carb.

Then you will probably need a dizzy as Matt has diagramed.

If you bump up the idle by turning in the speed screw more than 1 1/2 turns in, and you pull vacuum at idle from the "S" port, the enriching holes will be exposed and the throttle plate will not come down enough to stop the fuel from siphoning into the engine. This can not be good. Wash cylinders, dilute the oil with fuel, plus you will develop a stumble on acceleration.

I do not recommend anyone with "any Weber" real or a clone, to have the throttle plates opened into the enriching holes. This can not be good.

UPTILLNOW
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Unread 10-18-2013, 10:24 PM   #582
Hacken
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update,

I found a new dizzy and installed it. set timing re did lean best idle rechecked timing and after that i still have the dead spot. it feels to me like when the second barrel is opening. so i guess im going to order the jet kit unless someone has a better idea.

quick word on the old distributor the markings on the advance plate were 10r and 15r where do you think that came from?

Last edited by Hacken; 10-20-2013 at 08:48 PM..
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Unread 10-23-2013, 03:09 PM   #583
Nebulas
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32/36 on a 4cyl 151

Pierce Manifolds offers a complete Weber 'how to' tune up DVD for $12.oo and are a GREAT help!! My parts are on the way!!

Last edited by Nebulas; 10-28-2013 at 01:01 PM..
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Unread 10-24-2013, 06:06 PM   #584
Nebulas
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see above

Last edited by Nebulas; 10-28-2013 at 12:59 PM..
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Unread 10-25-2013, 11:03 PM   #585
Hacken
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Gentlemen,

Here is where im at. i have gone over everything and i cant figure out my dead spot. so i got the jet kit in and now i need to know where to go from here.

some info on my current set up. which should be stock.

primary idle - 75
secondary idle - 60
primary main - 145
secondary main - 145
primary A/C - 170
secondary A/C - 160
single pump - 50

I tried the 80 primary idle jet so far and it seemed to get my idle speed up to 750. however im only 1 5/8 turns out on the mixture screw so that tells me i should go back down to the 75 jet correct?

i also tried the 65 secondary jet and the dead spot got worse. I have checked the float and i think its good it measured 17 to 18 mm at the top of the float on the end closest to the air horns. 2mm of needle travel. so where should i go from here do you think my problem is the main jets or the A/C jets? At this point im not sure if the dead spot is because its too rich or too lean. any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you
Hacken
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