Weber Set-Up and Tune Discussion - Page 38 - JeepForum.com

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post #556 of 1099 Old 09-26-2013, 09:39 PM
D-BO
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Thanks guys for the help.

Yeah I was able to adjust the sector gears and get the throttle plates pretty close. Not perfect, probably because it is not a real Weber, but I was able to close of the enriching holes and tune it properly.

I know it has been covered, but for anyone who hasn't been listening: The fast idle screw on the Weber 38 can't be more than a 1/2 turn in!!!

Well through this thread and Swatson454, Uptillnow and Matt1981CJ7 I was able to pass CO emissions testing and the Jeep is running better than it ever has. The Weber 38 is awesome.

My one regret is that I didn't get a real genuine Weber, as my carb is the solex Chinese one from "webercarbsdirect.com". Don't buy it from them.


Whenever something breaks on my Cj... I learn something new by fixing it.
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post #557 of 1099 Old 09-27-2013, 12:34 PM
DoubleDown
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How did you know that it was a "knock-off" ?
Of course it says on the web site, that they are a genuine dealer of weber carbs.

I'm looking to get a K-551 38 and they have the best price by far.
Quadratec is $130 more

Anyone know where I could get a 'real' weber 38 for around $300 or less ? Preferably NOT eBay.
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post #558 of 1099 Old 09-27-2013, 12:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DoubleDown View Post
How did you know that it was a "knock-off" ?
Of course it says on the web site, that they are a genuine dealer of weber carbs.
The "European Weber" has Weber cast into the top and bowl of the carburetor.
This seems to be the only way to tell, so far.

The made in other countries do not have this casting. They have a "sticker" to sell you on the idea that they can copy this carburetor and "legally" sell it as a Weber but yet it hasn't anything but a sticker to imply it is a Weber clone.

Triangle A/S in Yakima WA. 800-572-3681
Carburetors Unlimited in Auburn WA. 800-994-2272
Ask for the K551-38 with "Weber" that is cast into the body of the carburetor. NO STICKERS!!

UPTILLNOW
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post #559 of 1099 Old 09-27-2013, 02:18 PM
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Mine definately had the red sticker on it.

I am not 100% but I think the electric choke element should be white. This is where the choke hooks up to the 12V connection on the Weber 38 DGES. Mine is black.

I think Pierce Manifolds has real genuine ones as well.

But Uptillnow has the right idea. CALL them and specifically ask them if it has name "Weber" casted into the body and there isn't a red sticker ANYWHERE.

I know they are slightly more expensive but the generic ones are practically useless. This has been insanely difficult to set up, just because of the poor attention to detail that the generic manufacturer has demonstrated. I will buy a real one as soon as I can... it's that bad. I am out the $270, because I picked the wrong one.

Whenever something breaks on my Cj... I learn something new by fixing it.
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post #560 of 1099 Old 09-27-2013, 02:37 PM
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D-Bo,

Congrats on passing emissions!!

And don't forget to contact Tom at Redline when you get around to buying the real deal 38.

Matt
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post #561 of 1099 Old 09-27-2013, 09:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Matt1981CJ7 View Post
D-Bo,

Congrats on passing emissions!!

And don't forget to contact Tom at Redline when you get around to buying the real deal 38.

Matt
I will. He was helping me tune, so I need to call him and thank him for that. Thanks for hooking me up with that contact. I also need to order an F7 through him.

My choke is still messed up so I want to buy a real deal one eventually. I am willing to bet that almost everyone who complains about a weber has a fake one. The throttle plates not being aligned was making it impossible to tune. At a 1/2 turn out on the fast idle screw, one of the enrichening holes was being exposed and one wasn't. I am pretty sure this wouldn't have happened on a real one.

Thanks again for all the help Matt.

Whenever something breaks on my Cj... I learn something new by fixing it.
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post #562 of 1099 Old 09-28-2013, 12:53 AM
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Glad to hear you are up and running, sorry to hear about the bamboozling of carbs. I have a real one and these guys helped me initially too. I don't miss those days!!!

Earning an engineering degree one CJ7 hiccup at a time
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post #563 of 1099 Old 10-16-2013, 06:22 AM
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Gentlemen,

I have a situation with my 32/36 I feel you could help with. First off 87 wrangler 258 nuttered, stock dis. new weber 32/36 dgev from redline via carbs unlimited as of now no vacuum leak pulling 20 from manifold. i have a fpr installed and verified correct pressure is being sent to the carb. egr blocked off. My problem is a dead spot in heavy acceleration, basically when stomping the pedal in any gear except for first. the engine idles slow at one and 1/2 turns on the stop screw. but very smooth. I have been all over with the timing and nothing seems to help this dead spot. I left it at 8*BTDC.
I guess my question is should i get the jet pack for it and once i have it where should i start?

Should i order the f7 emulsion tubes?

Do you think changing the primary idle jet with solve the problem as suggested by redline?

Do you think it could be my Float?


Thanks for any answers you could give me.
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post #564 of 1099 Old 10-16-2013, 07:26 AM
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Hack,

If you are using the original computer-controlled dizzy, your dead spot under load may be caused by too little centrifugal advance. Those dizzys only had about 8 degrees of centrifugal.

A pre-computer Motorcraft dizzy (1981 or older) will give you the option of running up to 18 degrees of centrifugal, and will wake your old engine right up.

Good luck,

Matt
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post #565 of 1099 Old 10-16-2013, 10:13 AM
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Matt,

First, you would suggest this route before rejetting? Second, Are the stock computer controlled dizzy's able to be modified or do i need to go to the junk yard or pehaps you think im better off buying new. Any thoughts.

Thanks

Hack
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post #566 of 1099 Old 10-16-2013, 10:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hacken View Post
Matt,

First, you would suggest this route before rejetting? Second, Are the stock computer controlled dizzy's able to be modified or do i need to go to the junk yard or pehaps you think im better off buying new. Any thoughts.

Thanks

Hack
Hack,
I agree with Matt...

Although, checking your set-up, is much easier for the first thing to do.

"Ad Nausem" = Speed Screw no more than 1 1/2 turns in after contact = ZERO vacuum at the "S" ported source for the distributer.

Find the "Lean Best Idle" somewhere around 2 turns out (mixture screw).

Set the initial timing around 10 - 14 degrees.

What size primary idle jet, .75mm ?

Then, what is it doing, still stumble on hard acceleration? That would be when we check the advance on the dizzy.

Let us know.
UPTILLNOW
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post #567 of 1099 Old 10-16-2013, 11:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hacken View Post
Matt,

Second, Are the stock computer controlled dizzy's able to be modified or do i need to go to the junk yard or pehaps you think im better off buying new. Any thoughts.

Thanks

Hack
I just bought a REDLINE "clone" Multi-Spark Capacitive Discharge Ignition box with a Coil.

MSD's patent is up and many many company's are making them now.

I paid $199.95 for box and coil, and am very impressed with the performance.

UPTILLNOW
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post #568 of 1099 Old 10-16-2013, 11:56 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uptillnow View Post
I just bought a REDLINE "clone" Multi-Spark Capacitive Discharge Ignition box with a Coil.

MSD's patent is up and many many company's are making them now.

I paid $199.95 for box and coil, and am very impressed with the performance.

UPTILLNOW
What did you replace, a stock Duraspark?


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post #569 of 1099 Old 10-16-2013, 12:07 PM
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Originally Posted by swatson454 View Post
What did you replace, a stock Duraspark?

Yes, kind of, I had a Duraspark box with the "Stealth" GM module.

That worked pretty good, better than the Duracrap.

This Multi-Spark Digital 6 box throws an inch bright white arc.

The plug wire fell off and I had to turn off the engine. Afraid to grab the rattle snake!


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post #570 of 1099 Old 10-16-2013, 12:14 PM Thread Starter
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So you had good results over the stealth HEI? Cool! Can't argue with real results.

The test I'm waiting for is a CDI vs a stealth HEI with an aftermarket module. I find that pretty interesting.

I was just razzin' you a little


Shawn

Edit: Were you still running 8 volts to the stock coil?

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