Weber Set-Up and Tune Discussion - Page 37 - JeepForum.com

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post #541 of 1100 Old 06-18-2013, 07:57 AM
disposablehero
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Ok. I will pull the idle jets today to double check them. Just got this jeep so lord knows what I will continue to find. As for the choke I will keep playing with it. Your jeep stated better than mine. Lol. Sometimes it is an instant crank and start. Others it takes a bit. Trying to find the sweet spot it likes. This am was an instant start and good idle. Who knows.


89yj- just getting started.
07.5 ram 2500 6.7 cummins. 13.6@98.6 1/4 on 35" nittos. Sold and sad about it
07 triumph speed triple 1050cc. Roulette Green monster
12 Sonata hybrid hippie car, MPG all day.
06 sierra 2500hd 6.6. On the way to running 11's.
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post #542 of 1100 Old 06-19-2013, 09:49 AM
johnsonk1
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Just had the same problem with my knock off 38 and 4.2. Check out the screw that hold the high idle lever to the BACK of the electric choke. Mine was loose and the high idle cam would not engage the throttle linkage. Choke butterflies worked perfect, but would not stick to high idle. Once warmed up it ran fine. I was able to get to the screw with a small flat head through the throttle linkage above the sector gears.

Just a thought, it worked for me.
Ken
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post #543 of 1100 Old 07-28-2013, 06:59 PM
disposablehero
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All my issues are resolved. Ordered a replacement 38. Put it in. Fired it up after setting minimum idle. She fired right up. Adjusted the idle mix screws and it starts within 1 revolution. Much better than 5-10 seconds to start.

89yj- just getting started.
07.5 ram 2500 6.7 cummins. 13.6@98.6 1/4 on 35" nittos. Sold and sad about it
07 triumph speed triple 1050cc. Roulette Green monster
12 Sonata hybrid hippie car, MPG all day.
06 sierra 2500hd 6.6. On the way to running 11's.
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post #544 of 1100 Old 08-21-2013, 12:42 AM
packdog
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Which hole?

In the first post the photos show a Weber 38. The instructions for setting the throttle plate refer to the holes to be used in a 32/36, which is what I have. Which hole(s) are the instructions referring to?

Thanks!
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post #545 of 1100 Old 08-21-2013, 12:40 PM
uptillnow
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Quote:
Originally Posted by packdog View Post
In the first post the photos show a Weber 38. The instructions for setting the throttle plate refer to the holes to be used in a 32/36, which is what I have. Which hole(s) are the instructions referring to?

Thanks!
I went to the first post, Shawn is showing the enriching holes and the throttle plate relationship.

The leading edge of the throttle plate needs to be below any and all of those holes.

A way to measure this is to back the Idle Speed Screw out, not touching the throttle lever, bring the screw in until it touches the lever and count the number of turns it takes to expose those enriching holes.

The Weber 38-DGES is 1/2 turn in.
The Weber 32/36 DGEV is 1 1/2 turns in.

Another way to tell if you are exposing enriching holes is with a vacuum gauge on the "S" ported vacuum source for the distributor vacuum advance.
With the engine running, you would have ZERO needle movement at curb idle.

I hope this helps splain this...

UPTILLNOW
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post #546 of 1100 Old 08-21-2013, 06:42 PM
packdog
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Thank you

Thank you for your reply, it is very helpful. Unfortunately, it does not make me happy about my situation, but the information is helping me figure out my problems!

I have had the carb off a bunch of times trying to get it tuned. I have had as many as 2 holes completely uncovered and had zero vacuum at the port. I guess it's time for a carb rebuild and thorough cleaning.

Any chance you know of a thread on setting up the fast idle cam? I swear I saw one a while back, but I can't find it now. I know mine is out of adjustment since the screw is backed out completely and doesn't ever touch the cam.

**EDIT** Nevermind, I found the fast idle adjustment instructions in the Installation Instructions at Quadratec.

Thanks,

-Ron

Last edited by packdog; 08-22-2013 at 10:40 AM. Reason: Found the answer at Quadratec
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post #547 of 1100 Old 08-22-2013, 01:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by packdog View Post
Thank you for your reply, it is very helpful. Unfortunately, it does not make me happy about my situation, but the information is helping me figure out my problems!

I have had the carb off a bunch of times trying to get it tuned. I have had as many as 2 holes completely uncovered and had zero vacuum at the port. I guess it's time for a carb rebuild and thorough cleaning.

Any chance you know of a thread on setting up the fast idle cam? I swear I saw one a while back, but I can't find it now. I know mine is out of adjustment since the screw is backed out completely and doesn't ever touch the cam.

**EDIT** Nevermind, I found the fast idle adjustment instructions in the Installation Instructions at Quadratec.

Thanks,

-Ron
Packdog,
Just checking here....
Does your carburetor have a sticker on it with a big RED W?
or
Does your carburetor have Weber cast into the body of the carburetor, No stickers?

I think you can see where I'm going here.
One is copied in China and the other is a Real Weber "Made in Spain".

This information might help while we figure out what going on with your carburetor.

UPTILLNOW
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post #548 of 1100 Old 09-20-2013, 05:44 PM
D-BO
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Hey Gents-
Great write up. So I pulled the top off of my Weber 38 to adjust the float and found a bunch of black specs. I am thinking I am going to get some new hoses, but the ones I had are newer so I feel like this will happen again. The hoses I used were "fuel line" so I am not sure why they would be degrading so quickly. My Jeep was running like crap so that is why I decided to install the viton tip and needle and adjust the float, but could this have something to do with it? Is there anyone else who has seen this before?
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post #549 of 1100 Old 09-20-2013, 07:26 PM
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Maybe cheap hoses? Any RTV on gaskets? Either way cheap t replace both and give the carb a rebuild.

Earning an engineering degree one CJ7 hiccup at a time
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post #550 of 1100 Old 09-20-2013, 08:07 PM
D-BO
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vinnyabs View Post
Maybe cheap hoses? Any RTV on gaskets? Either way cheap t replace both and give the carb a rebuild.
I don't have any RTV anywhere but I am going to replace all the hoses. I guess it could be coming from the line itself from the tank which would suck.

Whenever something breaks on my Cj... I learn something new by fixing it.
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post #551 of 1100 Old 09-20-2013, 08:28 PM
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So here are some more pics for clarification:
First Pic: I am missing the screw that goes into the hole for the choke adjustment. Which means I need parts 58 and 59 on the exploded diagram of the 38. Will this affect my tuning once I am warmed up? It seems like it is just why my choke doesn't work right. If it does affect tuning when warm I guess I am dead in the water until those come (if I can even order them).

The next two pics show how the throttle plates sit right now on my WEBER 38. The pic where the first progression hole is barely showing through (small crescent) is the plate on the drivers side or the plate opposite the choke side (sorry if there is better terminology). The other pic is the throttle plate on the choke side and it's hole is not showing at all. Is this correct/normal? Aren't both plates supposed to be EXACTLY the same? Or is one supposed to be closing off more?

My problems are that my jeep won't idle past 500 rpm in the idle circuit unless I put more than a 1/2 turn on the fast idle screw. I have tried the .45, .50, .55, .60 idle screws. I have set the float to 18mm per the previous instructions and I don't seem to have any vacuum leaks. I can get it idling at 500 rpm with the .45 as the best idle screw but there is a bad studder and 500 rpm is just too low.
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post #552 of 1100 Old 09-25-2013, 01:36 PM
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Sorry to bump... I am just hoping to make so progress. Can anyone answer the question about the throttle plates. I know on the Weber 38 they are Synchronous, as in they open at the same time at the same rate, but is one plate fixed lower than the other as in the pics above or are they supposed to be exactly aligned as well as synchronous?

Whenever something breaks on my Cj... I learn something new by fixing it.
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post #553 of 1100 Old 09-25-2013, 03:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D-BO View Post
Sorry to bump... I am just hoping to make so progress. Can anyone answer the question about the throttle plates. I know on the Weber 38 they are Synchronous, as in they open at the same time at the same rate, but is one plate fixed lower than the other as in the pics above or are they supposed to be exactly aligned as well as synchronous?
D-Bo,
I see in your pictures above that the exposed enriching hole is "washing" fuel down the throat of the carb and into the engine.

There is a flat head screw on the front/choke side/primary 1/4 round gear.
Loosen that screw and force with your fingers both gears and throttle plates closed. Re-tighten the screw and both throttle plates will open at the same time.

I think you know by now that this is a copied in China carb. (?)

UPTILLNOW
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post #554 of 1100 Old 09-25-2013, 03:46 PM
D-BO
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uptillnow View Post
D-Bo,
I see in your pictures above that the exposed enriching hole is "washing" fuel down the throat of the carb and into the engine.

There is a flat head screw on the front/choke side/primary 1/4 round gear.
Loosen that screw and force with your fingers both gears and throttle plates closed. Re-tighten the screw and both throttle plates will open at the same time.

I think you know by now that this is a copied in China carb. (?)

UPTILLNOW
Ok Cool. Thanks for the help. I will try and adjust the throttle plate tonight or tommorow.

And yes I am pretty pissed that I got suckered into buying a "Genuine Weber" carb made in freaking china. It is rediculous.

So far the cap on the back of the choke vacuum diaphragm fell out and the screw is missing (per the pic above), the throttle plates are missaligned, and the adapter plates were jacked up (I had to sand them smooth forever).

I am pretty close to buying a new actual WEBER made in spain, but money is tight right now for me. I am also trying to pass emmisions, and all of this has made me fail once already.

I emplore anyone looking to buy a WEBER to ensure it is the real deal. I am beyond pissed about all of these things. I just hope they are fixable.

Whenever something breaks on my Cj... I learn something new by fixing it.
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post #555 of 1100 Old 09-25-2013, 05:47 PM Thread Starter
swatson454
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D-Bo,

Hopefully the sector gear adjustment that UPTILLNOW mentioned does the trick. When I was struggling to get mine balanced, it ended up being the little linkage rod that connects the throttle plate to the choke. It took some real careful inspection but I was able to see that the inner radius of the linkage rod was dragging a little and kept the plate from closing all the way. Two pairs of pliars and some careful bending a bada-bing, lol.

Yours appears to be on the other side of the carb, independent of the choke linkage so hopefully a little sector gear adjustment does the trick. To start, just loosen the nut, hold the plates fully closed with your fingers and re-tighten it. If they want to relax into another position that's unbalanced, start looking at linkage issues.

Good luck!


Shawn

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