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Unread 01-12-2013, 02:35 AM   #526
John Strenk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D-BO View Post
Thanks for the great write up. I have a question about the idle jets. I have the Weber 38 dges and I have the jet kit on the way due to it not tuning right. I believe I need larger idle jets than the 45's based off of this threads advice and tuning.

Anyways I pulled my old jets out and noticed that the jet is free to rotate inside the screw head. Does this matter?

Do the idle jet holes need to be oriented in some fixed position?

I have a feeling they do because when they are installed if I rotate the screw it greatly affects the idle with the Jeep running.

It shouldn't matter but you always can orient it different ways by marking the holder and trying the jet in different positions.

Just rotating the jet holder allows more air into the circuit and that will effect the idle mixture.

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Unread 01-17-2013, 09:00 PM   #527
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Thanks for the help. I ended up using the 60 jet... probably because of higher altitude. Great write up!
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Unread 01-18-2013, 12:10 PM   #528
I6CJ7
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D-BO, that doesn't make sense, if you're at a high altitude you shouldn't need 60 idle jets, 50's or 45's should be fine. What altitude are you at? I'm almost near sea level here in Virginia, and I had 60's in, then went to 55's, and I still run a tad rich at idle.
And when you say you used a 60 (jet) you did use both 60's and not just one 60 and one 45 right? You need the same jet size in each side.
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Unread 01-18-2013, 12:40 PM   #529
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Quote:
Originally Posted by I6CJ7 View Post
D-BO, that doesn't make sense, if you're at a high altitude you shouldn't need 60 idle jets, 50's or 45's should be fine. What altitude are you at? I'm almost near sea level here in Virginia, and I had 60's in, then went to 55's, and I still run a tad rich at idle.
And when you say you used a 60 (jet) you did use both 60's and not just one 60 and one 45 right? You need the same jet size in each side.
REDLINE, installs .55mm with their 38-DGES. In high heat or above 4000’(altitude), you would increase the air or like they do here reduce the fuel.
I would guess at 5,200’ you would use a .50mm idle jet. (Maybe even a .45mm)
Just sayin….
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Unread 01-18-2013, 08:37 PM   #530
D-BO
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Thanks for responding guys. I went back and started over. I am at about 5000 ft which I realize isn't super high but I routinely camp and ski driving to 8 to 9 thousand feet. Which makes this tuning stuff suck.

Anyways I put the 45's back in (both sides together) and with the fast idle at .5 turns in my passenger side mixture screw was 3 turns out and the drivers about 3.25 turns out.

So I put the 50's in and got both mixture screws to be right about 1.5 turns out ( the passenger side a little under). I may micro adjust a little more but I think it is as good as it's gonna get. I may try the 55 but I think I want the better gas mileage.

I still have a flutter every 30 seconds or so but I can deal with that. I still need to install the viton seat and needle so hopefully that helps.

Thanks again for the advice.
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Unread 01-19-2013, 10:35 AM   #531
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That flutter bugs the crap out of me so I tune it out. If you're at 1.5 turns out on the screws, you've got the room to do so: probably another quarter-turn at the most would do it.

Make sure you've got at least 10* of initial advance and these respond really well to manifold vacuum to the distributor. It sounds like you've done a pretty good job getting it sorted out.


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Unread 06-13-2013, 12:59 AM   #532
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I got my jeep running very smooth with my knock off 38 and the mix screws are about 1.5 out. Just a hair higher. But I'm still having g trouble getting the dang thing started quickly. Stroke the throttle and the butterflies close but it takes forever for it to start. Sometimes I have to hold 1/3 throttle to get it to start. I'm getting annoyed. Might just try to find a good tuner around here. I just got the jeep a week ago and it runs much better but my fuel mileage sucks. First tank was 5mpg. Deleted the leaking egr and the mileage is better but 50miles and I'm at 3/4 tank. Something still isn't right.

Where am I going wrong?
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Unread 06-13-2013, 01:45 PM   #533
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Hi.

Thanks for the excellent writeup and info. Ive been coasting this forum for quite some time during my rebuild but have finally joined. As you can see I'm quite far away from the proper action and spares that you guys across the big ocean have.

I just acquired a 38 Weber DGAS carb that i want to install on my CJ with the 4.2 motor. Currently i still have the 1 BBl carter on. There is plenty off info on the DGES carb but nothing on the DGAS. Will this work? From the other info i could gather is that the carb will add plenty low down torque but will start to splutter on high revs due to running to rich from the small throats. What i need to know is, if its true? Should i do the swop and if so what advantage will i have.

If i need to change anything on the carb its fine but il have quite a long waiting time for spares. The Jeep is mostly used for playing in the mud and we do not have any emission controls in this country so anything goes.

If this one will not work for better performance what would be the ideal carb considering that the fuel efficiency does not really matter but budget does as everything is 10x the price here than by you guys.
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Unread 06-13-2013, 07:52 PM   #534
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I press my pedal once and hit the key, hot or cold it starts right up.
The DGES and DGAS are the same carb only difference is what type of choke they have, manual, electric, or water.
Great carb, there's no problem with high revs, and the 4.2 doesn't rev high enough to outflow that carb anyway.

Wish i Still had the pics of when i blocked my Weber adapter plates flat, enlarged and roughed up the plate bores to keep the flow up and fuel atomized and from sticking to the walls. I believe i used 120 or 140 grit? Then i gasket matched the adapter plates as well, since the supplied gaskets stick out millimeters into the bore, especially after i enlarged them. I also used an 800 grit dremel flap wheel to smooth out the area around the butterflies and throat of the carb, got rid of lots of casting irregularities.

Swatson454 may know the thread name where i rebuilt and improved my weber. Really made it idle nice and have amazing throttle response.
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Unread 06-14-2013, 02:42 AM   #535
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Thanks.

Il then install it over the weekend and see what happens. Good thing to go through all the info on this threat as it helps eliminate the initial frustration of not having a carcb setup to initial defaults.
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Unread 06-14-2013, 11:01 AM   #536
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When I first fire mine up now with the 38 dges I get a bunch of sputtering. Once it warms up a bit everything smoothes out. Where am I going wrong now? It's run nong great besides that.
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12 Sonata hybrid hippie car, MPG all day.
06 sierra 2500hd 6.6. On the way to running 11's.
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Unread 06-14-2013, 11:43 AM   #537
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WillysCJ View Post
Hi.

I just acquired a 38 Weber DGAS carb that i want to install on my CJ with the 4.2 motor. Currently i still have the 1 BBl carter on. There is plenty off info on the DGES carb but nothing on the DGAS. Will this work? From the other info i could gather is that the carb will add plenty low down torque but will start to splutter on high revs due to running to rich from the small throats. What i need to know is, if its true? Should i do the swop and if so what advantage will i have.

If this one will not work for better performance what would be the ideal carb considering that the fuel efficiency does not really matter but budget does as everything is 10x the price here than by you guys.
The 38 DGAS, A= Aqua or water choke... 38 DGES, E = Electric choke.
I believe they are all marked DGAS. whether they are water or electric.

You can get the 38-DGAS to work very well on your engine,

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Unread 06-17-2013, 08:44 PM   #538
disposablehero
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Ok. Here is where I stand with my 38dges . Cold start I get a really rough idle and it pops shakes and hesitates when I try to drive. I also have to hold the pedal to keep it running. The butterflies close when I stroke the pedal prior to start up. It starts pretty easy. Just takes a while to actually become driveable. After that it runs great. Could the egr block off I did be causing this rough start? I only did it to stop the egr leak. . Oh and the exhaust is really rich smelling during this warm up period. My garage is filled with the stink still. I wasn't even in the garage with the jeep running.

I also noticed that the idle mix screw on the driver's side doesn't seem to do anything when I tighten it down all the way. The passenger side does as it should. I am sitting at about 1.5 turns out on both.
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07.5 ram 2500 6.7 cummins. 13.6@98.6 1/4 on 35" nittos. Sold and sad about it
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Unread 06-18-2013, 02:34 AM   #539
John Strenk
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I would think if the EGR block off plate was leaking it would cause a lean mixture. Could lead to lean misfire causing the rich smell because the fuel is mot burning in a miss-fire.

The fact that one idle mixture screw is not working concerns me though.
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Unread 06-18-2013, 04:04 AM   #540
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Hero,

You might want to pull those idle jets out, separate them from the holders and make sure they're clear. They can be sneaky little things so make sure you can blow through them both ways and even swab the hole on the end with a q-tip.



I tried to get a close-up of how far I had my choke plate pull away on a cold start. I'm not much of a by-the-book measurements kind of guy so I just set it where I liked it and called it good. If it's closed off much more than this, however, it could definitely choke and puke on a cold start.

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