Weber Set-Up and Tune Discussion - Page 31 - JeepForum.com
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post #451 of 1085 Old 07-05-2012, 01:21 PM
uptillnow
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Quote:
Originally Posted by razor2264 View Post
I'm using the whole Clifford setup also (intake,cam,headers,bigger valves, 4.0 head) along with a DUI. After about 6 months of screwing around with the 38, I found that .60mm idle jets are what works best too. My engine is slightly sluggish in the beginning, but around 2500 rpms it really has some power especially for a 258. Probably should have went v8 for all the money spent, but I ALWAYS look forward to driving my CJ5 to work everyday.
I have heard of swapping out the 4.2 for a 4.0 using the 258 (4.2) crank with 6 fuel injectors and a 6 post waste spark coil that will break loose the tires in 2 cnd gear by just rolling into the throttle. "Way TOO much torque" for a CJ.

Whoo Yaw

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post #452 of 1085 Old 07-05-2012, 04:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uptillnow

I have heard of swapping out the 4.2 for a 4.0 using the 258 (4.2) crank with 6 fuel injectors and a 6 post waste spark coil that will break loose the tires in 2 cnd gear by just rolling into the throttle. "Way TOO much torque" for a CJ.

Whoo Yaw
Yeah I want to build a stroker when I get back from japan in 3 years.
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post #453 of 1085 Old 07-12-2012, 02:08 PM
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so parts came in and here's my set-up as of now. 150 mains, 165 air correctors, 60 idles, 2.5 viton, f-7 e tubes. i had to dial down my fpr to around 1.5 due to the fact that fuel was overflowing the float bowl. only wants to idle at 1.5 on speed screw, poorly i may add. mixture screw is at 1.5, and when the truck shuts itself off, fuel dumps into the primary throat and pools on the butterfly plate. ugh. any more recs for me?
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post #454 of 1085 Old 07-12-2012, 02:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by svenster View Post
so parts came in and here's my set-up as of now. 150 mains, 165 air correctors, 60 idles, 2.5 viton, f-7 e tubes. i had to dial down my fpr to around 1.5 due to the fact that fuel was overflowing the float bowl. only wants to idle at 1.5 on speed screw, poorly i may add. mixture screw is at 1.5, and when the truck shuts itself off, fuel dumps into the primary throat and pools on the butterfly plate. ugh. any more recs for me?
Yes... Fuel running over the bowl has more to do with the incorrect Float Height. The Viton needle and seat should handle considerably more pressure than the "Weber" brass needle and seat.
Also.... The idle speed screw CAN NOT be in more than 1/2 turn in... With ZERO vacuum at the "S" ported vacuum source.
Slow the engine down as slow as you can get it... Then reset the timing.. Slow the engine down as slow as you can get it and reset the timing untill you can be at or below 1/2 turn in.

Float Height: 18mm from the gasket on the top of the carb to the top of the fplastic float. Do not let the weight of the float depress the ball and spring in the needle valve.
Then the float drop should be 2mm of "needle" travel. This will limit the float travel.
The Weber needs more volume rather than pressure. 2 PSI maximum should be fine, especially with a 2.5mm seat diameter.
Good work.
UPTILLNOW
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post #455 of 1085 Old 07-12-2012, 02:41 PM
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so as i let off the speed screw and the idle get chunky, then adjust timing till it smooths out and then do this again until i am at or below the 1/2 turn...?

and not too sure i am exactly clear on how you are telling me to adjust float level...
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post #456 of 1085 Old 07-12-2012, 02:47 PM
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I just sent you a request for your e-mail address, to send you a doc with pics.
UPTILLNOW
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post #457 of 1085 Old 07-12-2012, 02:56 PM
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These pictures are of a Weber DCOE, the proceedure of measuring the float is the same.
The float height is 18mm from gasket to the top of the float.
The bottom picture "NEEDLE" measurement is 2.0mm of needle travel from fully open to closed, without depressing the needle and seat.
UPTILLNOW
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DCOE Float Height 14mm 0364.jpg   IMG_0366.jpg  
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post #458 of 1085 Old 07-12-2012, 03:14 PM
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Again, this is a DCOE the proceedures for measureing are the same...
"DG" Series Webers are 18mm gasket to top of float.
Float drop is 2.0mm of "NEEDLE" travel, fully opened to closed, not depressing the ball and spring in the needle valve.
Uptillnow
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post #459 of 1085 Old 07-12-2012, 06:30 PM
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for some reason i was struggling with understanding this but i believe my float is now set properly.
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post #460 of 1085 Old 07-15-2012, 06:21 PM
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things are looking up. finally idles and no dieseling when shut off. idles right around 620-ish rpm +/- 200 rpm fluctuation. timing at 12*, but fluctuating b/w 14-11*. mixture screws at 1 turn out. speed screw in about 1/8 turn. found a vacuum leak under the linkage plate i bolted into the intake. fixing that ASAP. still no s port hooked to dizz and not sure how to tackle the 0 vacuum at s port at idle issue. would love some more help. thanks to everyone for helping me get to where i am now. haven't driven it yet but keeping fingers crossed that i will be pleasantly surprised.
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post #461 of 1085 Old 07-17-2012, 10:41 AM
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Stephen,
I am glad to see you have made so much progress... Good Work!
The dieseling is always a result of the throttle plates being open too far into and exposing the enrichening holes. You closed up the throttle plates and virtually eliminated the dieseling... Again, Good Work!
I am a little puzzled by your great idle RPM 620-ish with the speed screw in only 1/8 turn. My experience has been you get 620-ish idle RPM at 1/2 turn in, and that is the place where you find some vacuum to ZERO vacuum at the "S" port.
This certainly appears to be the place where I would start DOUBLE checking things like, is the choke coming completely closed and not hanging up on the fast idle linkage of the choke.
Another thing to DOUBLE check is the rod/cable linkage allowing the throttle lever to come to a complete closed position.
I think something isn't allowing your throttle plate to come to a complete close and that is why you are getting a reading of 1/8 turn in on the speed screw.
This may seem like an obsesive compulsive tweeker trying to tune stuff, but the Weber is a sequentially timed device, where it starts on the idle circuit and ever so slight throttle opening gets enrichening holes, then starts tipping in the main circuit and then additional enrichening from the accelerator pump nozzel.
This is why I continue to acheive the consistant maximum of 1/2 turn in on the speed screw, finding some vacuum at the "S" port and then backing off enough to get ZERO vacuum. Then we can continue to tune or diagnose the objections in performance.
UPTILLNOW
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post #462 of 1085 Old 07-20-2012, 08:23 PM
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Just wanted to drop a line for those of us with Weber and working the issue of high-altitude tuning. I am currently running F50 emulsion tubes, 170 air correctors, 45 idles and 145 mains. I am at 7,000' elevation, and when I used my one-wire O2 sensor to get a hack at the a/f ratio, I was hitting .95 volts (goes from 0 - 1 volt) idling around, and .85 volts on the highway. THe rest of the motor is in good shape, only about 1200 miels on the rebuild, a DUI dizzy and no vacumn leaks. I called Redline, got the recomendation from Ron to open up the air correctors to about 210 and see what that does for the a/f ratio (should be about .6 volts for a correct ratio). I then contacted Triangle Auto supply, which is one of Redlines distributors, and ordered the High-Altitude jet pack, which comes with 3 sets of air correctors, mains, and idles. I'll let you know how it goes, they arrive on monday. I'm going to start with the air correctors, and then if the a/f drops down into the .4 or .5 range I will go back and open up the idles to the 50's.
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post #463 of 1085 Old 07-21-2012, 07:04 AM Thread Starter
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Did you not read any of what Matt went through with his altitude jetting and where he ended up?


Shawn

Live in a way that those who know you but don't know God will come to know God because they know you.
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post #464 of 1085 Old 07-21-2012, 09:30 PM
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I am interested in adding the Viton needle and seat to my carb and doing away with my pressure regulator. My 38x38 is more than 15 years old. Will I have any issues? It is made in Spain and I am including a picture. Where can I buy it?
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photo7.JPG  

CJ7 79 258 Clifford Stage II, intake, headers, cam, and head. Weber 38x38 w Cagle, Rancho 2 1/2 body Mallory dist and MSD, dual batteries Ramsey winch T18 Dana 20 with Teraflex gears AMC 20 ARB disc Dana 30 Lockright Aero 26 gal tank Tomken Machine bumpers and swing out spare tire. 33" procomp Xterrain tires.
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post #465 of 1085 Old 07-22-2012, 01:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mulliflier View Post
Just wanted to drop a line for those of us with Weber and working the issue of high-altitude tuning. I am currently running F50 emulsion tubes, 170 air correctors, 45 idles and 145 mains. I am at 7,000' elevation, and when I used my one-wire O2 sensor to get a hack at the a/f ratio, I was hitting .95 volts (goes from 0 - 1 volt) idling around, and .85 volts on the highway. THe rest of the motor is in good shape, only about 1200 miels on the rebuild, a DUI dizzy and no vacumn leaks. I called Redline, got the recomendation from Ron to open up the air correctors to about 210 and see what that does for the a/f ratio (should be about .6 volts for a correct ratio). I then contacted Triangle Auto supply, which is one of Redlines distributors, and ordered the High-Altitude jet pack, which comes with 3 sets of air correctors, mains, and idles. I'll let you know how it goes, they arrive on monday. I'm going to start with the air correctors, and then if the a/f drops down into the .4 or .5 range I will go back and open up the idles to the 50's.
In my experience, adding air to the fuel mixture to compensate for altitude isn't the answer, but it seems to be what most guys always try, first.

Reducing fuel by one jet size, both idles and mains, for every 3000 feet of elevation is what worked for me.....

Matt
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