Weber Set-Up and Tune Discussion - Page 12 - JeepForum.com

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post #166 of 1100 Old 04-27-2011, 06:27 PM
yunit
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I just installed a brand new 38 on my buddies rig today, swapped the stock idle jets out from the 45's that were in their to the 55's and this thing will not idle with the mixture screws 1.5 turns out and the idle set screw at least 1.5 turns in after contact. The fuel pressure is at a steady 3lbs., timing is at 10*, and their are no vacuum leaks. Any suggestions?

Thanks,
Pete.

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post #167 of 1100 Old 04-27-2011, 06:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yunit
I just installed a brand new 38 on my buddies rig today, swapped the stock idle jets out from the 45's that were in their to the 55's and this thing will not idle with the mixture screws 1.5 turns out and the idle set screw at least 1.5 turns in after contact. The fuel pressure is at a steady 3lbs., timing is at 10*, and their are no vacuum leaks. Any suggestions?

Thanks,
Pete.
Are you sure there are no vacuum leaks? Maybe internal to the EGR valve? I had to remove the EGR and sand and resand the carb plates to get rid of all of mine.

Thread Link: "My 85 CJ Project"

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...I have tentatively decided I actually enjoy this Cooper-person. Deal with it.
Quote:
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post #168 of 1100 Old 04-27-2011, 06:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CACooper View Post
Are you sure there are no vacuum leaks? Maybe internal to the EGR valve? I had to remove the EGR and sand and resand the carb plates to get rid of all of mine.
x2, had to remove EGR and sanded the adapter plates a ton

Currently Jeepless, if you get too frustrated with yours I'll take it off your hands.
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post #169 of 1100 Old 04-27-2011, 06:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigOrange90YJ

x2, had to remove EGR and sanded the adapter plates a ton
It's truly a labor of love.

To the OP (of this question): once you are positive beyond a shadow of a doubt about the vacuum leak, you may want to go through SWatson's extremely detailed step-by-step instructions on dialing in the Outlaw. It takes time, but once you do it, the Heep will purr. Good Luck!

Thread Link: "My 85 CJ Project"

Quote:
Originally Posted by Nuthin
...I have tentatively decided I actually enjoy this Cooper-person. Deal with it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by -Zona-
For some reason I keep underestimating you.
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post #170 of 1100 Old 04-29-2011, 02:19 PM
yunit
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The EGR has a block off plate on it. uptillnow is going to sending me some tuning info. I'll triple check it for leaks, then run through the info. The vacuum at idle is around 19, so I am at a little bit of a loss.
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post #171 of 1100 Old 04-29-2011, 03:49 PM
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Yunit,
I sent you REDLINE's tuning document (couple of pages).
I think before you put another quarter in the washing machine spin cycle of advice....
First be sure you have ZERO vacuum at the distributor ported source on the carburetor.
This also meens that the idle speed screw can not be turned in more than 1/2 turn MAXIMUM.
Second find the "Lean Best Idle" with the mixture screws.
Third re-time your engine to at least 10 BTDC.
From these settings can you / we determine what needs to be adjusted.
UPTILLNOW

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post #172 of 1100 Old 04-29-2011, 07:36 PM
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The experts are weighing in now. You're in the best of hands.

Thread Link: "My 85 CJ Project"

Quote:
Originally Posted by Nuthin
...I have tentatively decided I actually enjoy this Cooper-person. Deal with it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by -Zona-
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post #173 of 1100 Old 05-04-2011, 11:58 AM Thread Starter
swatson454
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Flame suit on.... Shawn get the fire extinguishers
I'm ready, man. Let's do this


Shawn

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post #174 of 1100 Old 05-07-2011, 07:08 AM
yunit
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Ok, she's running really good now.

The carb was new, so I already had the redline instructions, but appreciate sending me a copy.

I went over the entire intake again and could not find a vacuum leak. I let it fully warm up, set the timing at 10* @ 1600rpm, checked manifold vacuum (19-20 at idle), and started lowering the idle and adjusting the mixture screws. There is definitely something wrong with the idle adjustment on this carb. Right now the screw is in about 1.25 turns, idle is at 600rpm and smooth, and I can put it in gear and idle only drops about 100rpm. I can still starve the engine if I screw in the mixture screws.

The owner is happy with the way it is running and performing, we'll see how she does on mileage over the next few weeks.
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post #175 of 1100 Old 05-07-2011, 08:31 AM
mcmud
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uptillnow View Post
Yunit,
I sent you REDLINE's tuning document (couple of pages).
I think before you put another quarter in the washing machine spin cycle of advice....
First be sure you have ZERO vacuum at the distributor ported source on the carburetor.
This also meens that the idle speed screw can not be turned in more than 1/2 turn MAXIMUM.
Second find the "Lean Best Idle" with the mixture screws.
Third re-time your engine to at least 10 BTDC.
From these settings can you / we determine what needs to be adjusted.
UPTILLNOW

Flame suit on.... Shawn get the fire extinguishers
Regarding reseting the initial timing, I feel certain that UTN was referencing while the engine was at a reasonable curb idle speed, while the vacuum advance tube was disconnected and plugged, no matter which source you are depending on for vacuum advance.

Depending on the distributor, 10* @ 1600rpm would have drawn in a certain amount of centrifugal advance and is likely to result in 1-3* BTDC while at curb idle speed.

This should help with readjusting the speed screw within the recommended maximum of 1/2 turn in.
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post #176 of 1100 Old 05-07-2011, 12:02 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcmud View Post
Regarding reseting the initial timing, I feel certain that UTN was referencing while the engine was at a reasonable curb idle speed, while the vacuum advance tube was disconnected and plugged, no matter which source you are depending on for vacuum advance.

Depending on the distributor, 10* @ 1600rpm would have drawn in a certain amount of centrifugal advance and is likely to result in 1-3* BTDC while at curb idle speed.

This should help with readjusting the speed screw within the recommended maximum of 1/2 turn in.
Try to get 10* BTDC at no more than 700 rpm with the vacuum advance disconnected and plugged.


Shawn

Edit: You say it's your buddy's rig. If it was a feedback BBD that you replaced, have you performed the nutter bypass to pull the computer completely out of the loop?


S

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post #177 of 1100 Old 05-25-2011, 09:21 PM
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I'm now confused. I've been working on a mid-stroke lean condition, which has hopefully been narrowed down (thanks to mcmud, shawn, and a few others) to a too low float setting. In pulling the carb, I checked the adapter plate. I was going to run the dizzy off the manifold directly under the carb (instead of on the #6 runner port), however, I noticed that both the PCV port AND the brake boost port only have vacuum if the secondary is open on the 32/36 DGEV.


Several things came to mind. 1) that explains my blow by, 2) that explains my less than stellar braking since I'm getting no vacuum to the brakes unless I'm braking at WOT (who does that??). So, question - Is this normal?? I can run the dizzy off the E port of the carb, as that's basically manifold vacuum, so I'm not as concerned about that, but I'm curious about the PCV. Surely, blow-by would be eliminated if there was vacuum at that port in the primary, right? What about the brake booster??

This is kinda making me contemplate a 38 (or a MC2100, but I'll keep that on the DL in the weber thread...)
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post #178 of 1100 Old 05-25-2011, 09:46 PM
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Both the adapter plate and P/Brake nipples are/should be providing an exact to manifold depression signal all the while that the engine is running, irregardless of, but being dependent on the throttle position.

The "E" ported nipple (nearest to the mix screw) is not similar to manifold vacuum, until the pedal is to the metal. Its signal strength is throttle position dependent. That signal should mimic even the slightest accel pedal movement or position.

I suggest that you leave the PCV at the adapter plate nipple.
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post #179 of 1100 Old 05-25-2011, 09:56 PM
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Thanks mcmud. I was confusing "vacuum" with "signal." Appreciate the correction, as always, my friend.
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post #180 of 1100 Old 05-25-2011, 11:08 PM
mcmud
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You're most welcome.

Just in case you would want to reposition the PCV nipple to the primary bore side there is a spacer available which allows you to rotate that adapter plate 180* locating the nipple on the linkage side of the carb still allowing free movement of the primary throttle and primary throttle control levers.

I have one in front of me and can't read the number but a guess is #99005.120

I'd have a look into the P/B diaphragms ability to hold vacuum, a leak there would cause weak braking and lead to a leaner mix.
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