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Unread 09-21-2008, 03:30 PM   #16
SlikRic
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Romain View Post
Man, I sure like my BBD......
X10 now that I've learned to adjust it, thanks again Mike

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Unread 09-21-2008, 04:12 PM   #17
CJhollic
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Adjusting a Weber is just as easy if not easier than a BBD and no need to rebuild it once a year. To each his own, but if you can tune a BBD you can make a Weber purr. Putting the proper jet in at the initial set up is key as well as a FPR. Both are clearly stated in the instructions. I wouldnt run any other carbuerator.
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Unread 09-21-2008, 04:53 PM   #18
SlikRic
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CJhollic View Post
Adjusting a Weber is just as easy if not easier than a BBD and no need to rebuild it once a year. To each his own, but if you can tune a BBD you can make a Weber purr. Putting the proper jet in at the initial set up is key as well as a FPR. Both are clearly stated in the instructions. I wouldnt run any other carbuerator.
My BBD PUURRRRRRSSSS at first turn of the key, then can bark all 4 tires on dry pavement in 4hi, in 2 hi I can lay rubber for 25 to 30 feet. Also run 85 down I75 for 37 miles to work My Jeep is mostly used around town except for the times I'm working on my DD. Around town after getting my vacuum hoses hooked up properly I'm getting between 21 to 22 MPG running between 30 and 55 MPH

Can you touch those statements???????
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Unread 09-21-2008, 07:17 PM   #19
CJhollic
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SlikRic View Post
My BBD PUURRRRRRSSSS at first turn of the key, then can bark all 4 tires on dry pavement in 4hi, in 2 hi I can lay rubber for 25 to 30 feet. Also run 85 down I75 for 37 miles to work My Jeep is mostly used around town except for the times I'm working on my DD. Around town after getting my vacuum hoses hooked up properly I'm getting between 21 to 22 MPG running between 30 and 55 MPH

Can you touch those statements???????
yep! think you have something special the rest of us dont have? Just because you learned to hook up a vacuum hose and tune a carb doesnt mean your Jeep is any different from ours. I can sit in the same spot and smoke the tread off the tires if I want too. Doesnt mean &%^#.
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Weber 32/36 DGEV,
4" Suspension Lift , 1 " body lift
8000 lb Winch,
ViAir Onboard Air
TeamRush ignition upgrade with MSD 6a CDI
Dual Batteries
KC Daylighters
Cold Air Intake
Lock-Right Lockers
Yukon 1 piece axles
Custom Bumper& Swing Out Tire Carrier
Mile Marker Hubs
Chevy Blower Upgrade
1500 lb airbag suspension
Floor mounted gun rack (2 guns)

Last edited by CJhollic; 09-21-2008 at 08:22 PM..
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Unread 09-22-2008, 09:05 AM   #20
Mike Romain
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CJhollic View Post
Adjusting a Weber is just as easy if not easier than a BBD and no need to rebuild it once a year. To each his own, but if you can tune a BBD you can make a Weber purr. Putting the proper jet in at the initial set up is key as well as a FPR. Both are clearly stated in the instructions. I wouldnt run any other carbuerator.
Too bad the OP doesn't 'have' a "Weber" carb then isn't it...... The 34/34 is a French Solex with a clone sticker on it.

I think if I was the OP I would be disconnecting the EGR valve to see what happens...
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86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG AT's, 'glass nose to tail in '00, 'New' frame,wires and plumbing in '09. Carter BBD Carbed 4.0 HO in '10.
89 YJ Renegade. BBD Carbed 4.0 HO. Locked front and rear with 33x9.5 BFG AT's
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Unread 09-22-2008, 03:13 PM   #21
CJhollic
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Romain View Post
Too bad the OP doesn't 'have' a "Weber" carb then isn't it...... The 34/34 is a French Solex with a clone sticker on it.

I think if I was the OP I would be disconnecting the EGR valve to see what happens...
He does own a Weber. Unless I am badly mistaken they are manufactured for Weber by Solex who also builds carbs for Renault and other high end automobiles. I am not going to do too much research to back that up, so if I am wrong so be it...

I stand by my original statement, it is a good carb and can be easily tuned .


Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Romain View Post
I think if I was the OP I would be disconnecting the EGR valve to see what happens...
Ditto... As well as checking for vacuum leaks.
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8000 lb Winch,
ViAir Onboard Air
TeamRush ignition upgrade with MSD 6a CDI
Dual Batteries
KC Daylighters
Cold Air Intake
Lock-Right Lockers
Yukon 1 piece axles
Custom Bumper& Swing Out Tire Carrier
Mile Marker Hubs
Chevy Blower Upgrade
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Unread 09-22-2008, 04:40 PM   #22
Mike Romain
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CJhollic View Post
He does own a Weber. Unless I am badly mistaken they are manufactured for Weber by Solex who also builds carbs for Renault and other high end automobiles.
Well, Renault sure isn't what I consider a 'high end' car. LOL! French econobox is more like it.

Solex are a French Moped company as far as I know that branched out into making carb 'clones' that are impossible to tune.

All I have ever read, either here or on Usenet says no one can make them run right. Folks are crying for folks that can tune Solex carbs and no one is responding....

'Weber' for 'sure' will not back those clone carbs up or give any tuning info which says quite a bit about their quality.....
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86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG AT's, 'glass nose to tail in '00, 'New' frame,wires and plumbing in '09. Carter BBD Carbed 4.0 HO in '10.
89 YJ Renegade. BBD Carbed 4.0 HO. Locked front and rear with 33x9.5 BFG AT's
Some Canadian Bush Jeep Runs and Build Photos: http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com (10 new albums added Sept 16/10)
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Unread 09-22-2008, 08:34 PM   #23
CJhollic
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Any way you slice it, it beats a BBD.
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Weber 32/36 DGEV,
4" Suspension Lift , 1 " body lift
8000 lb Winch,
ViAir Onboard Air
TeamRush ignition upgrade with MSD 6a CDI
Dual Batteries
KC Daylighters
Cold Air Intake
Lock-Right Lockers
Yukon 1 piece axles
Custom Bumper& Swing Out Tire Carrier
Mile Marker Hubs
Chevy Blower Upgrade
1500 lb airbag suspension
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Unread 09-22-2008, 10:43 PM   #24
rj_ton
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Dude my 34 runs great out of the box, and its supposedly a solex with the weber name on it. look on page 1 about the proper fuel pump to use. This is where a lot of peoples problems stem from they just don't know it.
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Unread 09-23-2008, 10:48 AM   #25
Mike Romain
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CJhollic View Post
Any way you slice it, it beats a BBD.
I don't know why you would say that. I have tuned 'lots' of Carter BBD's and the newer Carter-Weber BBD's (later CJ7's and YJ's) and they run extremely well.

The BBD, 'like any other carb' requires a tune up kit every time you need new sparkplugs or every major tune. 'Most' folks either don't know this or they ignore their carb until it is running so poorly a spray bottle with gas in it would work better.

We all get close to or over 20 mpg and more important, we all pass emissions. The later 4.0 FI's that come wheeling and camping with us are always crying at the pumps as we put in around $15.00 worth 'less' gas at the fill ups that they do for the same runs. We go out to play in the sand pits and ravines and climb the walls, none ever stall and will chug up over a ravine lip at 400 rpm without missing a beat. They also will purr along at 120 kph (70+ mph) all day.

I think they are great carbs that are extremely easy to 'kit' with the kits only running $15.00 to $20.00 depending on where yo buy them.
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86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG AT's, 'glass nose to tail in '00, 'New' frame,wires and plumbing in '09. Carter BBD Carbed 4.0 HO in '10.
89 YJ Renegade. BBD Carbed 4.0 HO. Locked front and rear with 33x9.5 BFG AT's
Some Canadian Bush Jeep Runs and Build Photos: http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com (10 new albums added Sept 16/10)
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Unread 09-23-2008, 08:58 PM   #26
CJhollic
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I'll leave it at that and hope we can agree to disagree.
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Weber 32/36 DGEV,
4" Suspension Lift , 1 " body lift
8000 lb Winch,
ViAir Onboard Air
TeamRush ignition upgrade with MSD 6a CDI
Dual Batteries
KC Daylighters
Cold Air Intake
Lock-Right Lockers
Yukon 1 piece axles
Custom Bumper& Swing Out Tire Carrier
Mile Marker Hubs
Chevy Blower Upgrade
1500 lb airbag suspension
Floor mounted gun rack (2 guns)
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Unread 12-16-2008, 05:15 PM   #27
thegrizz51
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Carter Fuel Pump

Quote:
Originally Posted by rj_ton View Post
There is always one debate when installing a Weber. Check this page out.....
www.racetep.com/webfuelspark.html#webfuel

It shows how the Carter 4070 rotary electric pump is the one simple answer to this reoccuring question. It is a high volume low pressure rotory pump (constant flow, not a pulse like other crappy elec. pumps or like the stock mechanical pump.) Regulators only decrease the life of a pump. So why not find a pump that operates at your needs? The 4070 pumps at around 4psi but flow around 60-70 gph. Perfect for what any weber needs! It costs around $80- $100 and comes with everything you'll need except a little extra hose and wires. When I found this I was sold, I bought my Weber, did the Nutter bypass and only a little adjustment. Make sure the remainder of your vacuum lines that you use are routed properly and reset your timing on your distributer 14 degrees BTDC @1600 rpm.

Cheers
When I search the interweb, all I can find is the Carter P4070, which says it is a positive displacement pump. Not sure if it's the same pump, but that's the only one I can find. Any ideas?
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Unread 12-16-2008, 06:13 PM   #28
Fjguercio
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Sorry I missed this post.

I have a Weber 34 and like CJ Holic I have gotten it to run pretty well and have posted so. I am getting 24/25 mpg Hwy and pulls from 700 rpm to 4000 rpms with no issues and I can cruse at 70 mph at 2500rpms.

I have worked at it and done a lot of research, there are a few good artilces on the WEB to make this run better but you realy have to look. I have them posted on a thread and some good pics. Please see below

The rotary pump by Carter is a great idea. Thanks for the post above this is the first time I have seen this. I printed that and will be changing to electric pump this spring maybe this winter. This does not pulse but is turning all the time. Thus can be lower pressure and constant. Better for the Weber and I would recommend from what I have seen also. Will also help with the vapor lock or cranking in my case after the front or thunder storm comes thru I need to crank for 5 seconds or so to start it on those few occasions.

As for the poster above that needed to clip the idle spring to turn down further, I had to do this too.... But not the correct action, this is typical for the idle jets being too big and too much fuel this opens the progression ports and the throttle plate slightly to let more AIR in and lean out the mixture out some. Sorry to say your plugs will be sooty black and your oil will be black from fuel and need an OIL CHANGE ASAP. Follow my post with smaller idle jets and you will turn the screw out quite a bit and idle ok.

If you use the JEEP Mechanical Pump you need the Holley low pressure fuel regulator no ifs or buts.

A GOOD SPARK IS ALSO NEEDED TO BURN ALL THE EXTRA FUEL AND WEBER CAN DELIVER. TEAMRUSH to upgrade the cap/brass/larger diameter, better plug wires, change to the used Ford E Coil $4 from u pull junk yard with bracket or a better coil. The stock DuraSpark Distributor from a 1978 or 1979 will have the max mechanical advance and will work well with the WEBER. If you have a computer controled ignition you have to change or open up the mechanical limiting slot because the computer will no longer be increasing the "mechanical" advance with rpms and some situations. JeepHammer had some very good articles on this with pictures. JeepHammer is the teamrush guy and his suggestions work....PERIOD. Best yet change to a Summit or MSD multispark ignitions so you can burn the extra fuel and use that will the 1978 Rebuilt Ford DuraSpark Stock Type Distributor it will cost you $60 and the Summit Mutispark Digital will cost you $130 you cannot go wrong.

In the end most of the WEBER 34 will need smaller Idle and Run Jets to run in the Jeep 258. If you have a healthy engine with good vaccum its going to pull a lot of fuel like me. I can run my CJ easy and run thru the gears or I can get on it from take off and on 3 speed with granny 2nd will take me to 50 mph or so. It roars pretty good. I will make a few short videos sometime in 09 to post here also.

HERE IS THE POST and there is info on part #'s, good tune links, and pictures.
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/weber-34-dgec-carb-too-rich-jets-tune-jeep-4-2-258-a-631105/




If anyone finds a dwg of the Weber 34, please post if up

Last edited by Fjguercio; 12-16-2008 at 06:26 PM..
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Unread 01-21-2009, 12:43 PM   #29
TripEph
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thanks for the help
i got a fuel pressure regulator, and installed it, but my problem now, when trying to check for leaks, or adjust anything, is that the jeep will not even idle. if i rev it up to about 1200-1500 it sounds fine and will stay on, but as soon as it drops down to a normal idle it just dies...
any ideas

i did not get the jets yet because i want the thing to run first, even if it is rich
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Unread 01-21-2009, 02:57 PM   #30
Fjguercio
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TripEph View Post
thanks for the help
i got a fuel pressure regulator, and installed it, but my problem now, when trying to check for leaks, or adjust anything, is that the jeep will not even idle. if i rev it up to about 1200-1500 it sounds fine and will stay on, but as soon as it drops down to a normal idle it just dies...
any ideas

i did not get the jets yet because i want the thing to run first, even if it is rich
You need to change the jets and upgrade the ignition with TeamRush and Aux Grounds at min. The TOO BIG of run & idle jets will not allow you to set the idle.

Take the idle spring off and you will be able to get the idle screw in far enough to make it idle, but the progession ports will now be open.

Spend the $30 and get the smaller jet suggested. Then post back and confirm that it worked out well.

Follow the post you will not be disapointed.

Fred

Last edited by Fjguercio; 01-26-2009 at 09:05 PM..
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