i have a rebuilt motor (258), and new ignition parts, but the carb will not idle properly. Once I am going, the carb seems to run fine through all the gears, but every time i slow to a stop, the carb just sputters out and dies. I did a search, and found things about different jets, and vacuum leaks. Are one of these my problem? When I first start the jeep, it seems to run ok for a little, then the idle kinda bounces around a little, the engine struggles and then stalls. Every time I start it up after this, it just sputters out. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Do you have the idle mixture set appropriately? That's the first thing i'd check. The instructions should have come with your carb. If the mixture is way off, that would be a possibility. It's an easy adjustment. I'd start there first.
mine does that too, it works about half the time and the other half it sputters out and dies at traffic lights. I look like i cant drive stick. It has been working lately, and all i have done is try to adjust the mixture better.
85 CJ-7: 2 inch body lift, Weber Carb, 33 inch tires
not one mention of a fpr..fuel pressure regulator..One needs to be installed and adjusted down to about 3lbs. to get the most out of the carb..
1980 cj7 258 weber,5'' of lift,33'' boggers,lincoln locked,lockright and a snorkle...Khaki Jeep Club member No. 1
1984 cj8 350 on 35's..the wifes
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I've got this same carb and have had nothing but trouble out of it. I finally got it running smoothly, but it just runs WAY too rich and the exhaust fumes kill me. As soon as I can afford it, i think I'm going with fuel injection....but to get mine running even as well as it is a guy had to clip some of the springs out of the idle mixture screw to get more adjustability out of it and we sized the jets down to 45 in the primary and 47.5 in the secondary. I think that it would be better with a 40 in the primary and the 45 in the secondary myself, but that's just a theory....
When I first start the jeep, it seems to run ok for a little, then the idle kinda bounces around a little, the engine struggles and then stalls. Every time I start it up after this, it just sputters out. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I just installed this same carb in my '88 YJ a couple of days ago; one thing that got me started was to crank the choke screw all the way in, so you might want to try that.
Now it's running smoothly, but way too rich, so I'm planning on backing off the choke until it sputters, then trying to re-adjust the idle mixture according to the carburation.com link posted above (thanks!)... the setup instructions (and blurry pictures) included with the carb weren't the best.
I did the K551 conversion too, and it runs fine after I did the setup by the guide mentioned in some earlier post, and cranked the choke release screw way in. I also had to jet down to 45 pri 47.5 secondary to lean it out. My remaining problem is a tendency to flood while it sits in a parking lot after a 30 mi drive. Takes way too much cranking to clear the manifold, but it does finally start. I don't have a FPR in now, but I do have one of those fuel filters with a tank return at the Weber inlet. Stock fuel pump. I tried a Specter $25 regulator (Chinese junk!), but it just arbitrarily cut the fuel off completely at idle, so I put the tank-return filter back in. Weber says to use a regulator but doesn't recommend a reliable choice. Any suggestions? Is there any Web info on checking/setting the float level for a 34 DGEC?
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG AT's, 'glass nose to tail in '00, 'New' frame,wires and plumbing in '09. Carter BBD Carbed 4.0 HO in '10.
89 YJ Renegade. BBD Carbed 4.0 HO. Locked front and rear with 33x9.5 BFG AT's
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Yeah, I actually had my BBD running quite well after a season of rough idling. I took it apart and found a bunch of naptha crystals adrift in the floatbowl. After cleaning them out it idled and ran fine during the summer. I just did the Weber conversion for smoother acceleration and better cold-weather starting. My BBD's choke was cantankerous in winter.
I'm wondering if the Specter-type inline regulators are supposed to tee off the inlet line and go to the tank-return, instead of being in the line to the carb?
It shows how the Carter 4070 rotary electric pump is the one simple answer to this reoccuring question. It is a high volume low pressure rotory pump (constant flow, not a pulse like other crappy elec. pumps or like the stock mechanical pump.) Regulators only decrease the life of a pump. So why not find a pump that operates at your needs? The 4070 pumps at around 4psi but flow around 60-70 gph. Perfect for what any weber needs! It costs around $80- $100 and comes with everything you'll need except a little extra hose and wires. When I found this I was sold, I bought my Weber, did the Nutter bypass and only a little adjustment. Make sure the remainder of your vacuum lines that you use are routed properly and reset your timing on your distributer 14 degrees BTDC @1600 rpm.