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post #1 of 19 Old 09-19-2004, 07:55 PM Thread Starter
All 4 Go
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Weber carb

Hey I have a Weber carb k551 it has a fuel regulator in the line...what do you think it should be set at? It goes up to five.


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post #2 of 19 Old 09-20-2004, 04:26 PM
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I have mine set to about 3 or 3.5, and it flows enough to run 70 mph down the road, but yet still not have any problems with the fuel pressure overwhelming the bowl float and dripping. I wound up buying a 4 or 5" vacuum gauge that doubles as a fuel pressure gauge from Advance Autoparts and it makes setting the pressure easy. Make sure you have the gauge hooked up inline with the fuel line to the carb, not disconnected from the carb and connected to the gauge (hope that makes sense).

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post #3 of 19 Old 03-19-2013, 08:25 PM
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Hey guys, I just bought a Weber 551-38 Conversion Kit. I have it installed, and am finishing up the nutter bypass. I have been reading these posts and am curious about the complaint of it running rich. It was my understanding that these kits come ready for a stock 258 with the ability to upgrade to higher performance if the need is there, example: header, cam, etc. Am I wrong?
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post #4 of 19 Old 03-20-2013, 05:41 AM
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Yes and no.

They come with a standard set of jets and tubes that should maybe run fine, but it depends on where you are, what elevation you are at, temperature etc. Plenty of threads on here about tuning said carb, they are quite starightforward because Weber placed the bits you need to cahnge mostly on the outside where you can get at them.

If you increased the flow the extra venturi size is there. As it is a synchronous operation instead of progressive you can develop more torque low down and have that larger venturi available low down. Downside is that the larger venturis trade off some responsiveness and hence economy.

i have one and like it.

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post #5 of 19 Old 03-20-2013, 07:51 AM
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Glad to here you like it BagusJeep. I was getting mixed messages on those I have read about on this site who have done the conversion. I wanted to go fuel injection but the cost for me was the deciding point. Is it a good idea to do the HEI distributor, too? If I do that then can I do away with my Ignition Module under my washer reservoir? Not sure if i'll need it or not. Basically my intent is to clean under the hood as much as possible.
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post #6 of 19 Old 03-20-2013, 09:13 AM
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I have the k551 waiting to be put on. Now I've read that sometimes you need the regulator, sometimes not. What usually makes one need it and which regulator are you using?

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post #7 of 19 Old 03-20-2013, 11:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Speedbump1 View Post
Glad to here you like it BagusJeep. I was getting mixed messages on those I have read about on this site who have done the conversion. I wanted to go fuel injection but the cost for me was the deciding point. Is it a good idea to do the HEI distributor, too? If I do that then can I do away with my Ignition Module under my washer reservoir? Not sure if i'll need it or not. Basically my intent is to clean under the hood as much as possible.

Yes, do the HEI conversion or the Team Rush. Won't do you any good to put gas in the engine if it doesn't burn...
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post #8 of 19 Old 03-21-2013, 08:37 AM
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Weber says their carb needs NO MORE than 3.5 PSI fuel pressure. If you have a stock pump, you need a regulator. Some guys say you don't, but I'm gonna go out on a limb and assume that Weber knows what they are talking about. BTW: get a HOLLEY regulator, everything else is just junk and MR. Gaskett is the bottom of the pile!

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post #9 of 19 Old 03-21-2013, 08:48 AM
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So it's the Holley 12-804 model? The only low pressure one Summit carries. 1-4psi

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post #10 of 19 Old 03-21-2013, 08:56 AM
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Please don't open the pandora's box that comes with cheap regulators. Simply use the OEM bypass fuel filter and you'll be good to go.




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post #11 of 19 Old 03-21-2013, 09:11 AM
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This ^^^. The bypass filter acts as a regulator. It should provide about 3.5 psi with a stock mechanical pump.

I ran my 38 with only the bypass filter, and with a regulator. There was absolutely no difference. I liked having the regulator just to have a quick visual check of pressure.

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post #12 of 19 Old 03-21-2013, 09:34 AM
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Okay, makes sense. So the Weber will only "except" the pressure it needs and any excess will be pushed out the bypass and back to the tank. Correct? Good, that saves me $48 for a reg. and gauge, and I already have the stock bypass filter. Thanks guys.

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post #13 of 19 Old 03-21-2013, 12:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swatson454 View Post
Please don't open the pandora's box that comes with cheap regulators. Simply use the OEM bypass fuel filter and you'll be good to go.

Shawn
There's your answer right thar!

No need for a FPR if using OEM type fuel filter with a return line. I bought the Weber recommended FPR but never used it and it cost me around $70.00.

I bought a Viton needle and seat for the Weber as they can take the constant hammering that the factory fuel pump pressure has a tendency to do. Cost, about $12.00.

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post #14 of 19 Old 03-22-2013, 03:21 AM
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Ditto, ditto, ditto.

The factory fuel filter works fine on mine, will eventually get around to the Viton seal.

if you have an electric pump, find out if supplies more than 7 psi. If so then you may need a regulator even with the factory filter.

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1981 CJ7 258ci - Bagusjeep
1984 CJ7 258ci - Puthijeep
1981 J20 258ci - Gladys
1951 Willys CJ3A/MB/M38 - Little Willy
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post #15 of 19 Old 05-18-2013, 12:53 PM
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What should I set my timing at on my 1985 CJ-7 Laredo with 258 and auto trans.

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