Very interested in reading how it performs once you get that bad boy dialed in.
I have very often wanted to try one but with having several 32/36 DGV carbs on hand I find it difficult to reason why layout the cash.
Tom is a super good guy...all of them at Redline WorldPac are, skilled and available to give spot on tech support.
It was my pleasure in helping you to gain understanding of the set up instruction given you, especially so without the unnecessary and irrelevant clatter in opposition which will most always accompany such an attempt on the open forum.
If at anytime you or anyone for that matter has such a need feel free to make contact.
Our discussion primarily had to do with the float setting, a most critical adjustment that all who run a Weber must master.
Set it by bending the tabs, one is found on either side of the fulcrum pin in the float arm. The rear most which stops against the needle valve seat sets the amount of drop, while the inner one nearest the float sets the needle into the closed position. The needle will contain a ball on a spring, the damping of that spring is not to be considered in the closed position adjustment. Only the amount of travel of the needle prior to the damping.
On the 38DGS with the newer plastic float found on the Weber today.
While holding the cover plumb with the fuel horn up and the gasket in place measure the distance from the gasket's surface to what would be the top/end corner of the float when it is installed but in this setting is the nearest to the floor. That dimension should be 18mm. Carefully bend the rear most tab to that limit.
Gently move the float so that the inner most tab is in contact with the ball and the needle travels to the closed position. Again watch for the springs damping and stop immediately prior to it. Carefully bend the tab so that the amount of needle travel would be limited to 2mm.
For readers that may have the brass floats use the very same procedure but measure the full drop to the farthest point of the bottom of the float. For the offroader use 48mm from the gasket surface to the convex bottom. I find that this dimension along with 42mm in the closed position to be most satisfying on a DGV and DFV series. The drop setting on these when equipped with the plastic floats are the same as listed above, however I notice in the instruction for them that the amount of needle travel on these are to allow 1.5mm rather than 2mm of the 38 DGS.
I've installed mine about two months ago and it works great. My set-up was 1.75 turns on the mixture screws and about half turn on the idle speed screw. With that setting I achieved 21.5" Hg of vacuum @ 12deg BTDC, quick start-up's, awesome idle, more power, and so far no problems on inclines. And yes, it burns my eyes after a while at idle but I don't have a cat converter on it.
Currently I'm not using a fuel pressure regulator (even though I bought it for just in case need it) and have the dual outlet fuel filter without adjustments to the float level (stock settings). Keep in mind that my set-up is for a 90 degrees and 70+%RH weather @ <2000ft el.
TropicalNusselt- 1986 CJ7 w/ 258, T5, D300, D30/D44(3.31:1), Weber 38DGES, DUI, 2.5" Lift, 33" X 12.5" X 16", DC1
I too am running an Outlaw 38. I have been impressed with its performance. I've been running it for about 6 months now.
What I have noticed is that it does seem to run a bit rich at idle, but at part and full throttle it pulls VERY well. It might just be the nature of the beast, or maybe I could fiddle with it a bit more.
I have a clifford 264 cam, so I did need to play with the carb a bit to get it to work properly for my application. I have not set the float height.
There are times (read: weather conditions) when it is spot on. I have come to the conclusion that it is a carb..... It will not give the best mileage or performance all across the board. .....isnt that why cars have been switched over to fuel injection.
I have found a happy medium, and will be sticking to it until the weather warms up a bit more here.
There was a time when I would tune the carb on a weekly basis, trying to find the sweet spot. I was driving myself crazy. I could get it perfect one week, and then the next week, it would want another jet or another turn of the mixture screw... Thats when I figured I'd find a happy medium and stick with it.
If there is anything I can help with, drop me a line. I have the weber book, so if there is anything you want to know from there just let me know.
Remember. In its simplest form, the carb is a metered leak. To burn the gas perfectly, we need to adjust the leak to the conditions we are working with. Once the leak is set, it doesnt adapt to the weather or to altitude.
Thanks for the encouragment. I've been super impressed with this carb though. A quick change up in idle jet size to a 60 has the engine idling smooth and clean at 600 rpm with exactly 1 turn out on the mixture screws. The throttle response is extremely snappy and the transition from idle to progression is as smooth as I've ever seen from any carburator. Where did you end up for idle jet size?
I'm running the upgraded needle/seat without a regulator and am having no problems with excessive fuel either. I haven't had it long enough to see how it responds to weather changes so I can't comment as of yet.
Thanks for posting up, it doesn't seem like too many Outlaw guys are on here. Cheers
I thought I'd post up a quick update on the Outlaw. It's been installed for a bit now and I've got quite a few miles on it. I'm super picky, to a fault sometimes, but it has served me quite well and I'm continually impressed with this carb.
Idle is at 650 rpm. I ended up with a pair of 65 idle jets. I'm less than a 1/2 turn in on the speed screw, 1 1/8 out on the mixture screws and there is no vacuum at the spark port at idle. In fact, not even the slightest hint of vacuum can be felt with the tongue when using a length of vacuum hose. The idle is smooth and clean. The exhaust is warm and moist without burning my eyes at all. The low-speed performance and the way it responds just off idle is extremely impressive. It starts in the morning with one pump to set the choke and fires up with less than a full revolution of the engine.
I shot a couple of videos, as amateur as they are, and hopefully I can link the d*mn things on here correctly. As picky as I am, I'm sure I'll do something better with the second one, lol. Point being, if anyone is contemplating a 38 DGES, I highly recommend it and am able and more than willing to help out with the calibration.
Forgive me for the second video, my phone has chosen to battle me today.
"Idle is at 650 rpm. I ended up with a pair of 65 idle jets. I'm less than a 1/2 turn in on the speed screw, 1 1/8 out on the mixture screws and there is no vacuum at the spark port at idle. In fact, not even the slightest hint of vacuum can be felt with the tongue when using a length of vacuum hose. The idle is smooth and clean. The exhaust is warm and moist without burning my eyes at all. The low-speed performance and the way it responds just off idle is extremely impressive. It starts in the morning with one pump to set the choke and fires up with less than a full revolution of the engine."
WOW, I love my 38-DGES, wound up with 60 idle jets and agree 100% with you that this conversion is beyond all of my expectations. I had to change out the 34 DGEC to the 38-DGES. Unbelievable performance I HIGHLY recommend the K551-38 = 38-DGES.
I just looked out in the garage and can't for the life of me find the full part number in that mess. The most important numbers are the last three, .200. Carbsunlimited.com will know what you're talking about.
As far as any problems shutting off, or anything else for that matter; no. What's going on with yours?