WEBER 34 DGEC Carb TOO RICH??, Jets & Tune for Jeep 4.2 / 258 - Page 4 - JeepForum.com

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post #46 of 56 Old 04-24-2009, 03:20 PM
SuB8HaVeN
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1986 CJ7 
 
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Location: Tampa, FL
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Well if it wasn't cool enough that Weber shipped me free jets, I just got them in today so it only took them 2 days to arrive... for free!

My question is... they sent me one of each of the 35 and 40 jet. I'm guessing I should try the 40 primary and 35 as the secondary idle jet. Any thoughts Fred? I'm going to putz around with this tomorrow and see if I can't get her screaming more than she already is.

Edit: I put the new jets in, 40 primary and 35 secondary, and adjusted it as best as I could. It runs pretty good with the adjustment screw out a lot more than it was, but when you get heavy on it, it bogs down and then takes off. I'm guessing it needs to be timed a bit more advanced, so I'll fool with that tomorrow too.

I did have 65 primary/47.5 secondary idle jets.


1986 Jeep CJ7 4.2L I6 T176 (restoration in progress)
1961 Willys 4x4 Wagon L-226 I6 T90 (restoration also in progress)

Last edited by SuB8HaVeN; 04-24-2009 at 04:57 PM.
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post #47 of 56 Old 04-27-2009, 03:42 PM Thread Starter
Fjguercio
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1978 CJ7 
 
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Dear Subhaven, yep to your #48, I was lazy and did not go look.... ops

You did not mention your Run Jets installed. I would guess you need another 147 run jet. I think most of the 258's are going to be in the 147 Run Jet and 35 or 40 Idle Jet range. So.... I would have asked for a 147 run Jet when you were getting jets, you should already have one 147 run jet.

The Write up shows smaller jets for the Idel Circuit and the Run Circuit both. The Idel Circuit supplies about 15% of the run circuit so it does have a affect. I would expect you would need smaller run jets too. I would always start buy looking at the plugs so you can read what the engine is doing at Idel, run town, and run hwy. If you do not look and read the plugs you are guessing. I think my jet selection will be spot on for many of us.

The Idel Mix Screw is a flow control it does not change the Air/Fuel ratio, A/F ratio, of that circuit. There is still a range of operation for this screw setting and is covered in the tune documents. Just like the idel screw there is a range for that also, in not in the range it tells us stuff.

Let us know what range of setting your Idel Screw and Idel Mix Screw and your jet mix along with how your plugs look. Then maybe we can guide you or suggest.

Also anytime we make changes to the carb and jets, need to go back and adjust the time too and then tweek the carb again. If the plugs are fouled they need to be cleaned or replaced, the carbon is conductive and can "foul" you up by allowing your spark to jump to ground and not the spark gap.

Let us know what you found??
When we get this settled, I will lock this thread.

Regards,
Fred

Last edited by Fjguercio; 04-27-2009 at 08:41 PM.
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post #48 of 56 Old 04-27-2009, 07:34 PM
SuB8HaVeN
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You mean a 147 run jet, correct?

I haven't taken the carburetor apart yet to look at the run jets, but I should have some time to finish this all this weekend so I will let you know. Thanks again for the help and information.

1986 Jeep CJ7 4.2L I6 T176 (restoration in progress)
1961 Willys 4x4 Wagon L-226 I6 T90 (restoration also in progress)
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post #49 of 56 Old 04-27-2009, 08:42 PM Thread Starter
Fjguercio
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Dear Subhaven,

yep to your #48, I was lazy and did not go look.... ops
your are welcome,
Fred
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post #50 of 56 Old 05-11-2009, 04:41 PM
SuB8HaVeN
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Just to update, I got everything tuned as best as I could and also went ahead and adjusted the timing as well. It took me a long while to get the timing just right, but boy it runs good now. It definitely pulls a lot harder on acceleration. I didn't notice any gas fumes before but the A/F adjustment screw is backed out a lot more than with the factory jets. I haven't driven it enough to see the difference in fuel economy, but if I had to guess it should improve. It runs incredible now, but I'm still trying to get the electric choke dialed in just right.

1986 Jeep CJ7 4.2L I6 T176 (restoration in progress)
1961 Willys 4x4 Wagon L-226 I6 T90 (restoration also in progress)
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post #51 of 56 Old 05-12-2009, 05:53 AM
dwaynetm1
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I've read your write up on the weber 34 and I think it might be the solution to my problem. I have a question for you. I have a stock 88 YJ with a weber 34 on it. I have no power in 5th and little in 4th. It idles fine the idle primary is 55 the secondary is what looks like 47.5. The run jet primary is 150 and the secondary is 147. Do you think this why I have no power maybe to much gas? Do you have any suggestions? I've checked all the vac lines so I'm down to this. Thanks Dwayne
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post #52 of 56 Old 05-12-2009, 07:47 AM
SuB8HaVeN
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Do you still have the ECU plugged in? Undoubtedly smaller, proper idle jets will help but I'm not convinced that's your whole problem.

1986 Jeep CJ7 4.2L I6 T176 (restoration in progress)
1961 Willys 4x4 Wagon L-226 I6 T90 (restoration also in progress)
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post #53 of 56 Old 05-12-2009, 12:09 PM
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Yes the ECU is still plugged in. I tried to nutter itlast weekend but I cld not get it to start at all.
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post #54 of 56 Old 05-12-2009, 12:31 PM
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Ok just got off the phone with Jose at weber (nice guy) he thinks that I'm not getting enough fuel to the carb and whants me to restirict the return line and see how it goes. He is also going to send me out 35 idle jets no charge. So in the AM when I return from work I'm going to pt it back together I've give it a try and update this tread incase if anyone else is having a problem.
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post #55 of 56 Old 05-13-2009, 08:24 AM
SuB8HaVeN
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When you use the ECU with any aftermarket carburetor, it screws everything up. You will need to do the nutter mod to run the Weber. If it didn't start after you did the nutter mod, it sounds like you didn't get the wiring from the distributor to the ignition module correct. If the ignition module can't communicate with the distributor then it's not going to get any spark.

1986 Jeep CJ7 4.2L I6 T176 (restoration in progress)
1961 Willys 4x4 Wagon L-226 I6 T90 (restoration also in progress)
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post #56 of 56 Old 05-13-2009, 02:14 PM Thread Starter
Fjguercio
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SuB8HaVeN View Post
Just to update, I got everything tuned as best as I could and also went ahead and adjusted the timing as well. It took me a long while to get the timing just right, but boy it runs good now. It definitely pulls a lot harder on acceleration. I didn't notice any gas fumes before but the A/F adjustment screw is backed out a lot more than with the factory jets. I haven't driven it enough to see the difference in fuel economy, but if I had to guess it should improve. It runs incredible now, but I'm still trying to get the electric choke dialed in just right.
Thats great news.


Quote:
Originally Posted by dwaynetm1 View Post
Ok just got off the phone with Jose at weber (nice guy) he thinks that I'm not getting enough fuel to the carb and whants me to restirict the return line and see how it goes. He is also going to send me out 35 idle jets no charge. So in the AM when I return from work I'm going to pt it back together I've give it a try and update this tread incase if anyone else is having a problem.
Dwayne,
Great new you are getting better jets. You also need to pull your spark plugs and look... If they are black and sooty you are too rich. I agree with SubHaven you have other work to do before you can run the weber carb correctly. There are several links, nutter, grounds, Teamrush, and all of them need to be done to run well. I feel you need to go back and read the thread and links again, you missed a few things. With out most of these things your Vintage 1988 cannot run well with a Weber and has to be SUPER Rich.

You will need to complete the Nutter, do the other upgrades mentioned, changed the jets, change the plugs, and then start reading properly the plugs and your engine operation.

All future work should be done on your own thread. I and other can help you there.

Fred
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