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Weber 34 conv, nutter, Vacuum lines / Fuel lines
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#1 | |
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Registered User
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Weber 34 conv, nutter, Vacuum lines / Fuel lines
In in the process of installing a Weber 34/34 conversion kit on a 85 cj7 258. I nuttered the emissions and removed the old carter tonight. There are a TON of vacuum hose left. Note the tree on top of the valve cover and the other hoses everywhere. What all vacuum hoses can i safely remove and when i remove them should i plug the all the holes they lead from?
Second question is, i'm redoing my fuel line in the process. My old setup was pump -> fuel filter (which has 2 lines coming out of it, 1 to the carb 1 return line). I've bought a holley pressure regulator and fuel pressure gauge that mounts on it. I was planning to run pump->filter->reg-> carb. Where should the return line come into play? I was planning to screw in the gauge to the second port. Is there some way i can use the main port to the carb, return line, and gauge with this regulator? The part says its a "non-return" regulator, but then it mentions the return port size. I'm confused. http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=HLY%2D12%2D804&N= 700+115&autoview=sku Sorry for loaded thread, but i could use some help here! You guys have come through in the past!
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#2 | |||
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Quote:
Quote:
. Quote:
QUOTE]
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1980 cj7 258 weber,5'' of lift,33'' boggers,lincoln locked,lockright and a snorkle...Khaki Jeep Club member No. 1 1984 cj8 350 on 35's..the wifes [QUOTE=Me] "offroad it, and wave then you might understand"[/QUOTE] BLS Home Chapter... Where it all Started :hahaha: yj My low Buck Rock Crawler project Project..Stop by and check it out..[URL="http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=497896"][B][COLOR="DarkOrange"]The lizzard Queen[/COLOR][/B][/URL] |
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#3 |
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Thanks for the reply. I'm going to start ripping vacuum lines out tonight and plugging them. It'll be nice to get that cleaned up but i just hope i don't screw anything important up.
On the fuel line after doing alot of reading here, this seems to be the setup that makes the most sense to me: Pump-> fuel filter -> main line to FPR set at either 3 or 3.5 -> carb inlet ------------------> return line to tank Split is at the fuel filter (sorry formating sucks) From everything I've read it makes sense to put the FPR after the filter or else the main line might not be getting proper pressure. Any faults in my logic? Last edited by valkadesh; 06-05-2007 at 08:23 AM.. |
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#4 |
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the top pic is what you should leave after the nutter and carb swap.
bottom pic is a reference for your stock set up. Courtesy of John Strenk: ![]() Stock ![]()
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#5 |
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Awesome pic man. I greatly appreciate it! I'll try and trace everything down tonight!
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#6 |
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Registered User
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Let us know how everything goes. I just ordered the same 34/34 Weber carburetor last night to replace my POS Carter that's about had it. I'm going to take it to a friend of my dad's to get it installed and have him help me out because he knows carburetors better than anyone I've ever heard of. I'm hoping to get rid of all those vacuum lines as well. I've seen so many Jeeps with the same Weber installed whose engine bays are so much cleaner than mine...
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1986 Jeep CJ7 4.2L I6 T176 (restoration in progress) 1961 Willys 4x4 Wagon L-226 I6 T90 (restoration also in progress) |
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#7 |
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I'm planning on posting some "after" pics once everything is up and hopefully running. Then i'm hoping to get ripped to shreads on how i hooked all the hoses wrong! From everything i've read, seems like alot of people hooks the vacuum hoses up incorrectly and their jeep still runs.
Can't wait to get the new carb in myself (hopefully today), then the fun really starts. |
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#8 |
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Registered User
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your logic is correct to have the fpr closest to the carb...
__________________
1980 cj7 258 weber,5'' of lift,33'' boggers,lincoln locked,lockright and a snorkle...Khaki Jeep Club member No. 1 1984 cj8 350 on 35's..the wifes [QUOTE=Me] "offroad it, and wave then you might understand"[/QUOTE] BLS Home Chapter... Where it all Started :hahaha: yj My low Buck Rock Crawler project Project..Stop by and check it out..[URL="http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=497896"][B][COLOR="DarkOrange"]The lizzard Queen[/COLOR][/B][/URL] |
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#9 |
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Registered User
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I have just done the exact same setup you are wanting to do. I don't have the regulator on yet, but I plan on doing that this weekend hopefully. As for the vacuum lines, here is what mine looks like. They are not the best pics but hopefully it will give you and idea.
http://web.mac.com/lopezzi/iWeb/Lopezzi%27s%20Website/My%20Jeep_files/slideshow.html?slideIndex=1 http://web.mac.com/lopezzi/iWeb/Lopezzi%27s%20Website/My%20Jeep_files/slideshow.html?slideIndex=2 |
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#10 |
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Awesome pics, help me out quite a bit. I don't suppose you have one of the read of the valve cover and the back of the carb area do you? Also, do me a favor and make sure you don't have the return line and main line swapped, my fuel filter is setup opposite of yours but looks identical! (could just be the picture)
I got the old carb and studs off tonight and bolted on the new carb and throttle line. One comment i'll make, besides the carb, the weber hardware is poorly machined especially the plates. Maybe it's just mine though! Thanks again for the pics! ![]() |
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#11 |
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Getting ready to install a Weber 34. Thanks for the Diagram Fatman (nice Jeep) and the pics from Lopezzi (very helpful, better than that ones provided with the Carb). Before looking at the Diagram from Fatman, I had questioned splitting the PVC line (installaiton pics show it both ways) and had not even thought about splitting the Vacuum Advance line. Any thoughts?
On Fatman's diagram, is "M" the same thing as the hose labeled with a White "X" on Lopezzi pics? So that line just runs to the Canister? |
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#12 |
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Ok so I wasn't positive what pics you were wanting so I took a bunch of pics.
You can see them all here:http://home.apu.edu/~slopez/JeepPics/ If there is still a pic that you are wanting let me know and I'll do my best to get the pic to you. Hope these help! |
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#13 |
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Great diagram and pics! Very helpfull. My question is can you dump the charcoal canister out of this set-up and still work??
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#14 |
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Thanks for all the high resolution pictures. I'm still going to see if there is a way i can remove the tree on the back of the valve cover and all the lines attached to it. I'm going to trace all the lines tonight and see what all i can yank out. I just can't stand pointless clutter!
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#15 | |
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Registered User
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Quote:
The motor is going to run better with the canister, a clean filter, and the vent / vac lines connected correctly.
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