The air filter on the carburetor on the web address is the K&N style, cotton gauze, washable, re-oilable, 100,000 mile type of air filter.
The next post, suggests a 99010.457 adapter for the 5 1/8" I.D., universal 10" O.D. round air filter.
I guess my question is, What K&N filter were you looking at to replace the typical rectangular air filter that comes with the "Weber/REDLINE" conversion?
Some air filters are the paper filter, Empi, Weber Direct etc.
Ah, if the weber, is K&N style, then that should be good enough....just a K&N fan and wanted to be able to use one of their products. Round or square, I dont really care.
Actually, I believe the REDLINE cotton gauze is made by S&B filters. It is very very similar to the K&N in regards to washable, re-oilable, 100,000 mile life expectancy. I am not sure if they flow more or less than one another.
I had the k/n air filter and this carb set up on my jeep.
I use it on my farm, in the summer its very, dirty, dusty, that oil would only attract the dirt
I took the k/n off for cleaning and oiling, but on the back it had a hole in the fiber material.
so I just took it off
at advance auto they have a air filter that fits that size holder, I just bought that std type air filter, then bought a foam (big lawn mower engine) wrap that goes around the air filter, I keep this foam wrap clean/washed and oiled.
so far, the main air filter has stayed much cleaner and at much less expense.
I also took the k/n filter out of my dodge diesel truck
to me: more air flow equals more dirt flow, that diesel engine is too expensive to take a chance with poor air filter.
just my two cents!
You're INSTALLING a K&N? On a Jeep? Is this a daily driver and not a trail Jeep?
Seriously, that's the first thing most of us toss! K&Ns don't filter dirt anywhere near enough. A good old factory paper filter does a much better job. K&N allows more airflow because you can see through it. And if you can see through it, dirt CAN get through! On a track, in a race car with an engine destined to be torn down frequently, I can understand. You're trading engine wear for victory. But on a Jeep? In the dirt? You're wasting an engine for what?
I'd rather be lost on the trails than found at home!
[b]Phoenix Rising- A Flame Off Restoration?[/b] [url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/phoenix-rising-flame-off-restoration-1807257/[/url]
I was about to post a new thead to pose this question but it sounds like all the right people are already discussing it. Here's my dilema. I have a 1978 258 motor in my 1981 CJ7. I have the weber 38/38 DGES carb on it with the rectangular air cleaner that came with it:
Does the filter that came with it need to be oiled with K&N type oil? If so I didn't see that in the description. So I'm trying to decide between the following choices:
1. Keep the rectangular Weber filter that came with it and oil it as you would a K&N.
2. Buy the K&N that fits my Weber housing.
3. Use the stock "power brakes style" Jeep filter housing that I already own, a stock paper filter and the snorkel piece that attaches it to the stock air intake in the grill. I'd need to buy this adapter:
and I could run a K&N in this if I chose. The trouble with this is none of my emissions and vacuum craziness is currently hooked up so I'd have to block off the hot air hose and block open the various flaps in the stock unit.
4. Buy this adapter referenced in the post above:
This would allow me to use the Mr. Gasket 8" round filter I already own from when I ran an MC2100 before the Weber:
The trouble with this option is I've only ever found the Mr. Gasket replacement filter in this size and it cost darn near as much as the whole chrome air cleaner assembly that came with a filter. I could also run a K&N in this too I suppose as long as I could find the right one.
So the debate is back to whether K&N is great or evil. I do primarily street in Louisiana with about a half dozen somewhat dusty trail rides a year. I do like the idea of a paper filter with the oiled foam wrap.
Let the voting/debate begin!
1981 Jeep CJ7
258,T-5, D300, NT AMC-20 & Dana 30 (4.10)
Locked front and rear
If you hook up the vacuum correctly you should not need to block the flaps open.
Edit. I had the oil seals in the turbo of my cummins go bad. They didn't want to replace the turbo under warranty because of the K&N filter.
My friend the shop Forman at the time (before they went to teams) called the engineers about the use of K&N filter.
They referred to it as a rock and stick remover. Not capable of filtering down to the micron for a turbo application. He said if you can hold it too the light and see light through it. Not good.
They replaced my turbo under warranty only because I installed the filter while they were selling it through their mopar performance catalog. Which around 2 years later they pulled it from their catalog.
Haven't used one since. Untill the Grand Cherokee we got for Grammy had one in it. Still debating of pulling it in favor of a standard filter.
I am hoping for a daily driver to run around it...some light trail riding for sure.
I have done some reading on the K&N's to rebuke points made about their filtration and related engine damage.....put over 300k on one of my trucks, 100K on another, and on and on with K&N's with no issues...anyways, I dont wanna get into an arguement about that, was just wanting to know if anyone out there had some experience with replacing (at some point) the filter that came with the carb with a K&N.
Video was made in early 1990's, which by now, I am certain their have been no more technological improvements made on air filters....
I understand everyone has an opinion, and I have mine. I have had very good success with my K&N's. I am in Louisiana and dont plan on driving in any deserts, other dry areas, or plan on entering any BAJA races....Here in Shreveport, or when or if I move back home, right in the Panhandle of FL. Go NOLES!
Haha, again, thanks for everyone's input and suggestions.