Weber 32/36 dgev problems and vacuum lines

**jatepper** · 02-06-2009, 04:53 PM

Installed the 32/36 dgev carb and I am having some problems. I have the adaptor kit for it so I can use the factory air cleaner. Whenever I install the NEW air filter and cleaner assembly, the carb starves for air and kills the engine.

My vacuum lines are a mess too. I want to get rid of all vacuum lines except for the canister set up, dizzy advance, and of course my power brakes. What are your recommendations.

I am trying to set the timing at 12 TDC. What do you think? Factory ingition for now, but will be installing my old hei soon.

Fjguercio · 02-06-2009, 05:20 PM

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/weber-34-dgec-carb-too-rich-jets-tune-jeep-4-2-258-a-631105/

**mcmud** · 02-07-2009, 02:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jatepper

Installed the 32/36 dgev carb and I am having some problems. I have the adaptor kit for it so I can use the factory air cleaner. Whenever I install the NEW air filter and cleaner assembly, the carb starves for air and kills the engine..

Are you TAC valves plumbed and functioning properly?

Quote:

My vacuum lines are a mess too. I want to get rid of all vacuum lines except for the canister set up, dizzy advance, and of course my power brakes. What are your recommendations..

Get tubing.
Thats got most items covered but don't you want the EGR? Saves you and your engine all the way around.

Quote:

I am trying to set the timing at 12 TDC. What do you think? Factory ingition for now, but will be installing my old hei soon.

Too much Initial advance. Most use 8*BTDC but I suggest no more than 7* and wish you would try 3-5* BTDC. Try it you'll like it. Remember Factory Tech's and I said so. With the HEI we don't know. Their all gone and I'm the only one here.

Need any help with the vacuum plumbing to what I hope for your sake is a DGEV 32/36 rather than that old newer type thing?

**keith460** · 02-07-2009, 07:57 AM

I have a Weber carb on my 258 using the stock air cleaner assembly and had read many a post on what vacuum lines are needed. If you use the Weber or MC2100, then their is no need for the engine computer (MCU) and then wires can be removed also to clean up the engine compartment further.

Here's a vacuum diagram I sort of used for the Weber carb, but mine was a little different due to the factory air cleaner that uses the temperature-controlled vacuum switch (TVS) and Thermostatically Controlled Air Cleaner (TAC) System.

Some pictures of the finished vacuum lines hooked up.

The open vacuum line off the intake manifold goes to the TAC and TVS system of the stock air cleaner (not shown).

**jatepper** · 02-07-2009, 08:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mcmud

Are you TAC valves plumbed and functioning properly?

Get tubing.
Thats got most items covered but don't you want the EGR? Saves you and your engine all the way around.

Too much Initial advance. Most use 8*BTDC but I suggest no more than 7* and wish you would try 3-5* BTDC. Try it you'll like it. Remember Factory Tech's and I said so. With the HEI we don't know. Their all gone and I'm the only one here.

Need any help with the vacuum plumbing to what I hope for your sake is a DGEV 32/36 rather than that old newer type thing?

I think the instructions for the Weber DGEV 32/36 says the EGR valve will not be used, but I have to double check.

**jatepper** · 02-07-2009, 08:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by keith460

I have a Weber carb on my 258 using the stock air cleaner assembly and had read many a post on what vacuum lines are needed. If you use the Weber or MC2100, then their is no need for the engine computer (MCU) and then wires can be removed also to clean up the engine compartment further.

Here's a vacuum diagram I sort of used for the Weber carb, but mine was a little different due to the factory air cleaner that uses the temperature-controlled vacuum switch (TVS) and Thermostatically Controlled Air Cleaner (TAC) System.

The open vacuum line off the intake manifold goes to the TAC and TVS system of the stock air cleaner (not shown).

Keith,

Some good info. Thanks. Do I have to use the TAC and TVS on the stock air cleaner? The reason I ask is because I plan on doing the nutter bypass too. Do you have any issues using the stock air cleaner with this setup? Without the stock air cleaner on and just installing the adaptor plate on the manifold, I saw some moderate change in the engines reaction because of restriction of air.

Is it still a good idea to nutter if I am installing a DUI hei ignition module?

**mcmud** · 02-07-2009, 09:11 PM

Yea It does for sure. Thankfully that carb does comes with directions so's you want ever be seen driving it down the roads either, huh? Sorry but I couldn't resist it!

**jatepper** · 02-07-2009, 09:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mcmud

Thankfully that carb does comes with directions so's you want ever be seen driving it down the roads either, huh? Sorry but I couldn't resist it!

What????

**mcmud** · 02-07-2009, 09:28 PM

It was a poor attempt at humor. My reference was to the directions "For Off Road Use Only" Clause.

**jatepper** · 02-08-2009, 10:44 AM

What are these sensors for and do I need them with the weber carb? Keep in mind I am going to nutter my engine. Is it still a good idea to nutter if I am going to use the DUI hei ignition module?

Also, what do you guys think of the FPR set-up? I think I have to swith the filter around to allow the fuel return nipple to be on top. I wanted to move everything away from the manifold.

**jatepper** · 02-08-2009, 12:12 PM

bump bump bump

**mcmud** · 02-08-2009, 12:15 PM

Those would be the up/down stream solenoids on the left and the idle sp.sol. on the right

**jatepper** · 02-08-2009, 12:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mcmud

Those would be the up/down stream solenoids on the left and the idle sp.sol. on the right

Do I need to keep these?

**mcmud** · 02-08-2009, 12:29 PM

No. I see your leaning toward the nutter? Even without that mod which would clear out a mess of wires and switches, these switches in question could be removed and what they control, but will open a 1" hole in the exhaust head pipe if the tubes are still in place.

**jatepper** · 02-08-2009, 12:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mcmud

No. I see your leaning toward the nutter? Even without that mod which would clear out a mess of wires and switches, these switches in question could be removed and what they control, but will open a 1" hole in the exhaust head pipe if the tubes are still in place.

Yes, I leaning towards a nutter. Is it still ok to nutter if I am removing the factory ignition and replacing it with a DUI hei module?
So, by removing these switches, why would I have a 1" hole in the exhause head pipe?