[outsider2010]

Hello, This will be my first post on a forum ever. I registered because I have beneffited from the web in many areas and would like to give back were I can. I have developed some theoretical and practical knowledge about Weber tuning after two and a half years lost in the Weber darkness but I'm seen the light now and despite not having finished my own carb I can predict results when I make any changes., I wouldn't considered myself an expert or a guru but I feel that I could contribute a bit to help with the tuning of idahojeeper progressive. I'm not sure if it will be OK with all of you since I dont have a jeep or a 6 cylinders but the method is pretty much the same

[John Strenk]

Originally Posted by outsider2010

Hello, This will be my first post on a forum ever. I registered because I have beneffited from the web in many areas and would like to give back were I can. I have developed some theoretical and practical knowledge about Weber tuning after two and a half years lost in the Weber darkness but I'm seen the light now and despite not having finished my own carb I can predict results when I make any changes., I wouldn't considered myself an expert or a guru but I feel that I could contribute a bit to help with the tuning of idahojeeper progressive. I'm not sure if it will be OK with all of you since I dont have a jeep or a 6 cylinders but the method is pretty much the same

Yes the methods are pretty much the same. What did you have your Webers on?
And how did you find us?

[outsider2010]

Hello John, I found your thread while looking for answers since I don't consider myself as a know it all, I'm sure there are people out there with vastly more knowledege than I have, I read the first pages and the suggestions of one of your users and from my experience it didn't make sense and thought that it shouldn't end well but wanted to know since maybe he had a way I didn't know of, but it doesn't seem to have ended well, he/she hasn't posted for a long time. I have fiddled with Webers for most of my life, I came from a place were european cars are as popular as american and asian cars so from the repair and even adaptation I have some knowledge or thouth I had, now I know "I knew nothing back then". Right now I have a DFEV fitted to a Mitsubishi engine in an old Dodge Caravan

[outsider2010]

Hello idahojeeper, don't get discouraged, I have the impression that if you knew where you are and understand better how this carbs work, you would feel more in control and could give us a more precise feedback, please realize that every engine is different, every location makes thing different from jetting standpoint, and I can tell you that the jetting for this season will not be the same for summer and if you had 2 exact copies of your jeep but one here in Florida (for the winter) and the other in Idaho they will have totally different jetting. Press on!

[IdahoJeeper]

Drove it to work today.

Still has "drivability" issues but we can discuss that later.

Pulled plugs #1 and #4 again. #1 had some tan discoloration behind the electrode, rest was white. #4 a bit larger area was tan. Based on those readings, I'd say I'm still lean.

Checked timing...still at 8*. I bumped the speed screw to give me 2" vac at idle (~500 rpm), the idle was "stronger"...didn't change rpm. Timing looked to be around 10-12*. Then for S-n-G () I hooked it up to manifold vacuum again. As soon as I do that, the rpm's pick up a bit and the timing goes to a point where I can barely see it. I'm taking the manifold vacuum from the same source that provides vacuum to the brake booster. I'll check this setup out tomorrow and let ya'll know how it goes.

[Fjguercio]

Sorry you are discouraged... this has been going on for some time. Please allow me to show you a few things and maybe give me a hour of your time or so. I can get you running much better than what you have described.... Below are your nubers from post one and post #12 not sure where you are not but you can post all your jets and screw setting now again. The post if too long for me to read all 9-10 pages.

I put a sharpe mark on the scew slot so you can write down in a sprial bound note book what your jet and screw setting are. I also record every change and made a pic of the carb Sq with two circles and put the jets in the pic and then say what works best. Can cross off a Jet and say the changes... the pic does help

Here are some of you early posts


Post #1

Originally Posted by IdahoJeeper

Background: '84 258, Weber 32/36 DVAG, Nuttered, TeamRushed, timing set to 8*. Hard start when cold, idle ok but rpm would vary, would hesitate under load and loose power on incline.
Rig has ran like that since I picked it up last summer. Nutter and TR were steps #1 and #2 in the process to get it running better. I had been thinking about swapping to a different carb but am glad now that I didn't. JF to the rescue!!
Today I put a Mr. Gasket fuel pressure regulator on and set it to 2.5 - 3.0 lbs. That helped a bit. Then I stepped through the "best lean" idle procedure. I ended up backing the idle mixture screw out 4.5 turns to take the "stumble" out of the idle. Wow...now I know why it was running like crap. The Idle jet is too small.
The installed jets are:
Primary / Secondary
Idle 70 / 55
Main 40 / 40
Air 160 / 170
Where I live is 4800' AMSL.
So my questions are:
1.) Do I change the Air jet (smaller) along with increasing the Idle jet or just change the Idle jet.
2.) How many sizes can I expect to move on the idle jet?
3.) Are the currently installed jets a good or correct "combo"?
Thanks in Advance to all the Weber experts out there!! (and yeah, I have trolled darn-near all Weber related threads....very few even mention jet sizes and what changes to make due to altitude)

Post #12 1/30/2010

Originally Posted by IdahoJeeper

I ordered the Redline 701-DGV4A High Altitude Jet Kit. It contains a variety of primary and secondary idle, main, and air jets.
Here's what I installed:
Primary Secondary
Idle 65 55
Main 140 145
Air 180 190
:

I think 300-400 rpm is too low for a 258 and will not be generating the vac levels to have the engine breath and function right. The FSM, Field Manuals generaly say 650 to 750. The lower rpms of 400 will not give you the vac levels taken at ported and is not functional IMO. The Idel Circute provides 15% of the run operation of the carb. So when you change a 45/70 jet you that is 55% bigger on Idle and x15% is 8.3% on the run circuite.... so not huge bumb on running but enough to say maybe I like this fat running. Just to give you the idea the jets are metric drills and you can use math to see you approx changes.

Most carbs I have seen for 258..... Webers, 2100, Carters... generally use 47 or so jets in that range anyway. I am using a 47.5 and 50. Many of the idle jets are in the 40-60 range.... for some reason my idle jets are way small and like 35 or 40... this summer might change that..... but I have a new build with great vac levels, 3 cut valves, and a engine with 2k miles, and header, no cat, and a complete Borla Exhaust.. As said all are different but there are ranges.

Your post says you are lean...... I suggest you put 45 or 50 idel jet in and 45 or 50 mains. If they offer a 47 use that one. ON the Weber 34 they supply a 47.5 with carb but do not sell the 47.5 as a single jet?????? I am asking them to change that since the 47.5 is the sweet spot per my findings and would be good to have 45, 47.5, 50 since that is the sweet spot many wind up with ..... true on many carbs per folks posting numbers here.

You will also see in my thread I have been collecting number for what member had stock to verify bench testing and to record what worked out best for them. Also include what their set up is like. Better ignitions will burn the fuel better.... 1980's new versions computer controlled have issues with advance once the computer is taken out and nuttered... if you do not have the 30 deg of advance it will not be optimum. Putting in 12-10 deg of initial is not optimal will affect your idle and off the line workings. The advance curve is more advance.... is a issue for your set up.... an will not be addressed yet.

The air corrector jets need to be returned to the stock levels for your carb. They are the last thing you will change. Once you have the idle and run jets set with good screw setting and good operation... then you can move the air correction jets to get the last 50 rpms or last bit of tune performance out of engine.

The webers carbs are sensative but not his sensative. The WEBER CARBs are shipped FAT... heavy on fuel mix.... bumpin up the idles 25 to 60% does not make great sense. I said early on will be hard to get the screw setting, throttle closed, and the rpms for the 258.

So lets make those Idle jets in the 45/50 range and you will be able to choose your 650 to 750 much much much easier. I will also say if you just change the idle jets and start it up you will have a IDLE RPM in the 1000 range.... changing nothing else.

Put the air correction back to stock levels.

Make the run jets in the 47 to 50 range.

You are at 4k to 5k if memory is correct... Not that high and you may be a bit smaller on jets than others but you will be close.

After you prove and show these ranges seem to work better and allow you some adjustment rooom some of the stress will be remove.

I hope you like the suggestion, I have been waiting and following this thread and a few others... it has not gone too well. Agree to do this hour of work and I thinnk you will find success. Then I can lead you to a few posts where you can correct your stock distributor advance curve. The distrbutor is a large part of your problem, can easlily be corrected. You system will run well and yield 18 mpg but to get the 20 level you will need to do the distributor too.

I am running 6 deg initial advance... Tried 8 and no performance improvement and the starts were not as crisp. Too much initial advance is not good for starts, it is bad for idle and moving forward starts. Initial never comes out and the 10-12 range some suggest is a bandaid for the computer distributors having a mech advance limit of 5 deg and phase issues for some years and some units. My distributor has 13 & 18 degree slots.

So for now lets stay with the smaller jets so you weak computer version can burn the gas. Once you correct your distributor your performance will go up, you will more advance to burn the fuel, and you most likely will be able to bump up the run jet a bit after this.......... trial and set up we are going to do this weekend.



If you scan my WEBER 34 thread I have been saying the same stuff for the past year. Will put it here again for your ref, others, and the new guy above. Weber info true for all the webers.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/we...-258-a-631105/


I will also say the MR Gasket regulator is junk and the jeep will not run well with that one... get the holley low pres regulator ... I say this in the in the Weber thread too. Set the holley regulator at 3.5 psi using a gauge and leave the gauge on there for now... Use a 0-15 psi liquid gauge if can locate liq filled. The home stores will have the 3/8 NPT brass pipe fitting for the soft gas line, the gauge neck downs from 1/4 npt gauge typical to the 3/8 Npt for the regulator.

[Fjguercio]

I have been reading other Web sites looking for weber users and information. Seems they are looking to get ranges and data to see what the good ranges are. Just like what I have been doing.... getting ranges. Others are haveing many troubles with the Weber 32/36 so we are not alone and the carbs are use on suzuki, toyota, dodge and others.. You will also see the ranges of jets are similar to what I have suggested and may of the things said and done are similar to my posts. So here are some extra locations to get some knowledge. I think we are ahead of many of the forums in knowledge of carb and engine, ignition, etc.

http://www.opelgt.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-2623.html
Opal GT also uses the Weber 32/36 and in the early 2003 to Dec 2009 posters have many issues with WEBER 32/36. They are using smaller jets similar to what I recommned and talk about the ignition and maifold leaks need to be fixed prior to setting up carbs. Lots of confusion and the carbs are sent very rich from the factor.

Decent Read.





http://www.opelgt.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-4513.html
Opal GT on use of WEBER 32/36
First, you're running strictly on the primary up to 2/3rds of throttle opening on that particular carb, which is most of the time on a DD

Mains are fairly self-explanatory, increase to richen, but airs are there to emulsify (aerate) the fuel flow and work opposite from mains, i.e. decrease to richen mixture (less air to fuel ratio). Once you've established the fuel component requirement of the engine, you then fine tune it by aerating it more or less (changing fuel/air ratio), understand?






http://www.opelgt.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-5817.html
Opal GT..... Proper disributor isertion and time can make the vehicle run or not run.







http://www.opelgt.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-7727.html
2005 Opal GT nothing wrong with weber 34 or the solex mfg carbs.





http://www.opelgt.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-14582.html
Weber 32/36 have lots of issues tooo.... this thread has lots of carbs that will not run or idle

2007 Opal GT..... cannot get a Weber 32/36 to rn or idle
The carb base and spacer were slightly warped, so I resurfaced both to be flush, along with the intake.
All stock jetting. 1.40 mm main jets (primary and secondary), .60 mm primary idle jet, .50 mm secondary idle jet. About ready to toss it out and just put a new one on, but I really hate replacing a carb that I rebuilt and was obviously pretty new to begin with (nothing really needed replaced when I rebuilt it).

I've been experiencing the same problem on a 32/36 I am messing with on a GT for a friend.

I think this a more common problem than we think. I have the same issues with mine. I have been playing with the jetting on 2 different carbs....





http://www.opelgt.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-15950.html
Opal GT 2008
Weber 32/36 would not run... needed to clamp off the return line to get flow to weber carb





http://www.opelgt.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-16631.html
Opal GT 2008
Weber 32/36 would not run so purch a new one and it ran for a bit and that one would not run





http://www.opelgt.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-16864.html
Opal GT 2008
Weber 32/36 and would not run so purchased a rebuilt 32/36 and would still not run

I am still having the same probelm. There is one issue however with the carb that I am addressing right now-it has some fuel seeping out of the thin gasket inside the carb that runs horizontally through the top half of the carb.

Before you start guessing and replacing every thing I would first thing I would do is a compression test on the engine, that all cylinder are about the same.. then put a vacuum gage on, it will show you if you have a leak, and if your cab is adjusted right, a tac & dwell tester for RPM & point , and timing light, it's the only way your going be able find your trouble. don't forget to use your service manual specification. if you don't know how to use these instrument. then learn how for they are the only thing to tell you the health of you engine and what problem needs to be fixed... make sure your vacuum advance hoses on your distributer are hooked up and working... that was my idle problem.





http://www.opelgt.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-17425.html
Opal GT 2008
Weber 32/36 Tune..... cannot get to run right?





http://bbs.zuwharrie.com/content/topic,103005.0.html
Suzuki Technical Help
Weber 32/36 runs poor needs help
Ck your ignition and coil sounds like you have spark issue





http://bbs.zuwharrie.com/content/topic,105124.0.html
Suzuki Technical Help..
Weber 32/36 rich and purchased a new one it is still too rich asks for help





http://bbs.zuwharrie.com/content?topic=46383.5%3Bwap2
Samuri Tech
Set up and tune for Weber
Always try to use the smallest idle jet size you can get away with
Use the air jets to fine tune the main's range
Also, watch out for anomolies- idle mix setting issues can be traced to too much fuel pressure
After all that it ran better but still spiting and sputtering, So instead of rebuilding the carb I figured I would just order a weber 32/36, and clean up the engine bay and get a little more performance.

[swatson454]

Originally Posted by IdahoJeeper

Drove it to work today.

Still has "drivability" issues but we can discuss that later.

Pulled plugs #1 and #4 again. #1 had some tan discoloration behind the electrode, rest was white. #4 a bit larger area was tan. Based on those readings, I'd say I'm still lean.

Checked timing...still at 8*. I bumped the speed screw to give me 2" vac at idle (~500 rpm), the idle was "stronger"...didn't change rpm. Timing looked to be around 10-12*. Then for S-n-G () I hooked it up to manifold vacuum again. As soon as I do that, the rpm's pick up a bit and the timing goes to a point where I can barely see it. I'm taking the manifold vacuum from the same source that provides vacuum to the brake booster. I'll check this setup out tomorrow and let ya'll know how it goes.

Almost there buddy!

As many here know, I'm not at all a proponent of plug reading and I'll give you an example. For S-n-G I pulled my plugs for a reading already knowing what my air/fuel mixture was. 4 of the 6 looked pretty darn good (according to common theory) and two looked a little rich. Guess what, the air/fuel ratio was 11:1. Very fat! You can change plug brands and keep the same heat range and get a different reading. Not at all accurate. It can certainly be used to determine a trend as in "plugs 1 and 6 tend to be leaner" but that's really about it, unless it's way off and their friggin black or the electrodes are blistered.

Don't sweat the timing jumping way up at idle once you switch to manifold vacuum, it's supposed to. I just spoke with Performance Distributors again this morning as I was ordering my D.U.I. and we went over the many positives of running manifold vacuum. Lots of timing at idle and lean-cruise is a very good thing for mileage, it's lot's of timing under a moderate to heavy load that's a problem. 25* to 30* at idle wouldn't surprise me a bit. It's a good thing!

Not too sure about pulling distributor vacuum from the brake booster but it's not my specialty. Maybe John, Uptillnow or mcmud will comment on that part. I'm running a dedicated line from the manifold to the dizzy.

I'm not sure why we're having the issues we are with the progressives but I'm waiting with anxious ears to see what's really going on. My 38 Outlaw works incredibly well! With the jet changes I've made, my lean-cruise under the progression circuit holds a 14.5 to 14.9:1 air/fuel ratio. After a change in main jets and a step up to 180 on the air correctors, the mains hold a moderate load air/fuel ratio of 13.5:1 from 2,000 rpm up and drop to 12.5:1 under the PVEC. They hold the fuel curve flat at 12.5:1 from 2,250 rpm to 4,000 rpm so a change in emulsion tubes doesn't appear neccessary. That's pretty well perfect! It's a pretty straight forward process so I'm 100% confident that we'll get it nailed down correctly!

There are some really sharp guys on here and all of our Webers are running very well: mcmud, uptillnow, Felonious Monk, TropicalNusselt, wm69, John Strenk (although I don't believe he has one currently but was building them when I was still pooping yellow.)

You're in good hands!

Shawn

[outsider2010]

Hi all, Scott, Do you know wich circuit is causing your drivability problems? also will you let me know if you are using a phenolic spacer under your carb? remember the Carter BBD uses a thick somewhat flexible gasket to keep the heat from the manifold out of the carburetor, we don't have a phenolic fuel bowl like in the AVS or Solex progressive. Also, is your manifold heating working top notch? boy this carbs need manifold heating, they were design with that in mind unlike the DCO or IDA/IDF series. Is your adapter leakproof? I know you fix the looseness but from my own experience that wasn't enough and I did the sanding on glass trick too, I couldn't beleive it when I checked, grab a can of aerosol starting fluid and spray around the carb adapter with the engine runing and cold if you can but hot will work too, if you notice any change in RPM you have a leak, while you are at it, please check the intake manifold to head union just to be sure you don't have a leak there too. All these little leaks if they are there will creat havoc al all RPM's.

[outsider2010]

Shawn, from my side of the fence is not odd he is having issues with the DGEV, remember. this carb came to life to feed the then new X-flow head fitted to a 1.6 liter Ford engine in the Capri back in the mid seventies, it is a specific carburetor, I think John mention this in the past, so we are trying to fit a 1.6L four cylinders sequential opening carburetor to a six cylinders 4.2L engine originally fitted with a sinchronized openning carburetor, but not only it can be done but it can be done well enough; in your case you have a sincroneous carburetor made for a 2.8L V6 so it is a much, closer adaptation than with the DGEV. Besides that, the Carter BBD open its butterflies from a single shaft running at 90 degrees from the engine while this family of carburetors open their butterflies with two shats running parallel to the engine. We shouldn't forget the fact that the carburetor is just a part of a matching parts induction system that begins at the cold air intake and ends at the intake valve head.
Now will any of you confirm to me that the carburetor is in the left side of the engine (driver side)? I havn't seen one of this engines in 22 years and back then we had problems with the plastic valve cover never with the carburetor.

Jorge.

[swatson454]

Originally Posted by outsider2010

Shawn, from my side of the fence is not odd he is having issues with the DGEV, remember. this carb came to life to feed the then new X-flow head fitted to a 1.6 liter Ford engine in the Capri back in the mid seventies, it is a specific carburetor, I think John mention this in the past, so we are trying to fit a 1.6L four cylinders sequential opening carburetor to a six cylinders 4.2L engine originally fitted with a sinchronized openning carburetor, but not only it can be done but it can be done well enough; in your case you have a sincroneous carburetor made for a 2.8L V6 so it is a much, closer adaptation than with the DGEV. Besides that, the Carter BBD open its butterflies from a single shaft running at 90 degrees from the engine while this family of carburetors open their butterflies with two shats running parallel to the engine. We shouldn't forget the fact that the carburetor is just a part of a matching parts induction system that begins at the cold air intake and ends at the intake valve head.
Now will any of you confirm to me that the carburetor is in the left side of the engine (driver side)? I havn't seen one of this engines in 22 years and back then we had problems with the plastic valve cover never with the carburetor.

Jorge.

Agreed and several of us have mentioned that the 32/36 progressive is in fact a very small carb for a 258 ci engine, especially given it's limited idle volume with a single idle circuit.

We were hoping to get him squared away without having to resort to the tricks mentioned a few pages back.

You're correct, it's on the drivers' side.

Thanks for your input and welcome to the forum.

Shawn

[outsider2010]

Hi Shawn, thanks for the welcome. I'm afraid he might have to go the "holes in the butterfly way", because even if the engine oil pressure doesn't fall too much in Summer with that idle (and the idle will drop even further with thhe lower density air in Summer) we must remember that not only the engine is affected by the idle speed but the alternator is probably off at that idle, the power steering pressure might be too low, and if he have the A904 transmission the main pressure will be too low for sure, well bellow the 80PSI minimum, but before he goes drilling holes for the sake of it, I have a backdoor solution, he can use one of the full vacuum ports capped by the adaptation, put a hose in there and plug it with a ball or whatever made of lead or another soft material and drill this ball meanwhile, it will serve two functions, the first is to keep those buterflies unmodified until he finishes with the carb totally and second it will give hin a rough idea of the size of hole he will need if he ends needing one, he is far away to be 100% sure of that right now. I would consider the carburetor in the left side of the engine to be a minus, the jet stream comming from the idle mixture screw has to make a 180 degree turn to get to the inner cylinders in a very slow running/low volume airflow allowing lots of fuel droplets to hit the manifold and unbalance the mixture to those cylinders, now it is also true that these cylinders should be running richer because of the shorter runners so in the end the problem might self cancel, we will see.
Jorge.

[Fjguercio]

This was posted in the other active weber 32/36 tune thread. So I thought it should be here to give another view.

I do not feel the WEber 32/36 is a small carb for the 258... many of them with over 100,000 miles and 30 yrs old. The calc for the 258cc engine that maxes out at 4400 rpms and usually sees shifts at 2500-3500 rpms is 300 CFM the same as the carb rating 300 CFM. If the 258 was a reving motor like 7k or 8k it would be small. That is why it fits the 4bangers that do 8k and the 258 that does 4k. IMO anyway. There are 1000s of these on 258 and toyota 6 bangers, it is also used on the BMW six bangers.... do not see other web sites, links or others saying this is a small carb???? I do see 50-75% of posts saying they run too rich without work of some type.

Originally Posted by monkeyhouse

I wouldn't say that at all. I'd set the carb back to factory defaults and work on the timing.

This is what I used when I first got my weber. This guy was kind enough to share the steps he goes through at work to get a carb running right. Check it out:

Weber Tuning Guide - Ratsun Forums

Very nice find there Mr MonkeyHouse.....

Amazed how similar that process is to the WEBER 34 Tune Thread I wrote a year ago. We say many of the same things.... I have a few more tricks to make the jeeps run better on my thread so it more for a Jeep Applicaion.

Even the jet ranges they suggest are similar to my suggestions..... 145 - 150 mains and 45-55 idles.... do not change airs till the end if.... if needed.

They also read spark plugs at idle, and run.... and turn the engine off at running speed and coast over to side of road to ck for plug conditions.

It was gratifing to see how similar the posts and information was. There are also many problems with a Weber 32/36 tune and operaton as any carb in the weber family or any carb for that reason.


You might want to take a peek at my info thread if you get time... true for all weber not just 34
I will be adding your link next time I do a update to Weber 34 Tune thread.
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/weber-34-dgec-carb-too-rich-jets-tune-jeep-4-2-258-a-631105/

[uptillnow]

Originally Posted by swatson454

Agreed and several of us have mentioned that the 32/36 progressive is in fact a very small carb for a 258 ci engine, especially given it's limited idle volume with a single idle circuit.

We were hoping to get him squared away without having to resort to the tricks mentioned a few pages back.

You're correct, it's on the drivers' side.

Thanks for your input and welcome to the forum.

Shawn

When these universal carburetor conversions first started on the Jeep 258, REDLINE used the 38-DGES carburetor, mainly because it is EXTREMLY closely matching the size of the Carter BBD. The 38-DGES has 38mm or 1 1/2" throttle plates and both barrels opened at the same time, just like what Jeep the manufacture used in the day. This suited the Jeepers very well and the market place wanted a "cheaper" carburetor that resulted in using the 32/36 DGEV. This averaged about $45 -$50 less expensive. That’s when the fun started. An example: A 1600cc VW Beetle equipped from the factory with a 34 PIC 34mm barrel some had 32PIC barrels. Then the Jeepers with twice the engine size went to 32mm primary barrel and at 1/2 throttle position it starts to open the 36mm barrel. This will work for a grocery getter, but a little less than desirable for the enthusiast or actually climbing at low RPM’s. I LOVE my 38-DGES. UPTILLNOW

[outsider2010]

I think it is a disservice from Redline to promote the 32/36 as a direct replacement and the 38/38 as a performance option I don't consider those $50 bucks a savings if you are going to spend weeks on end fighting to bring the carburetor to tune and who knows how much in extra jets. Uptillnow, you have jugled my memory with those Solex's ; if you are happy with your 38DGXS and want to try something that should be better look for a 40DFAV, the 38 came from this design but the 40 have 28mm venturis and "no" power valve so you run around 13:1 all the time, a guy was selling one in Ebay last weekend for $100 with a new gasket set. For me I would have chosen a DCN if I were to run the CJ in the streets only and if I had the money maybe a used a 46IDF but would also have to make an adaptor.
Scott don't get discouraged by all this talk about inherent problems with the 32/36, I'm sure we can start talking about the BBD problems and it would be worse, if you keep working on it you not only end up with a better setup than original but also with the knowledge to re- jet it in case you make any modification in the future or even change to a 38DGXS.
Jorge.