Weber 32/36 DGAV Jetting question(s) - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 149 Old 01-22-2010, 11:00 PM Thread Starter
IdahoJeeper
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Weber 32/36 DGAV Jetting question(s)

Background: '84 258, Weber 32/36 DVAG, Nuttered, TeamRushed, timing set to 8*. Hard start when cold, idle ok but rpm would vary, would hesitate under load and loose power on incline.

Rig has ran like that since I picked it up last summer. Nutter and TR were steps #1 and #2 in the process to get it running better. I had been thinking about swapping to a different carb but am glad now that I didn't. JF to the rescue!!

Today I put a Mr. Gasket fuel pressure regulator on and set it to 2.5 - 3.0 lbs. That helped a bit. Then I stepped through the "best lean" idle procedure. I ended up backing the idle mixture screw out 4.5 turns to take the "stumble" out of the idle. Wow...now I know why it was running like crap. The Idle jet is too small.

The installed jets are:
Primary / Secondary
Idle 70 / 55
Main 40 / 40
Air 160 / 170

Where I live is 4800' AMSL.

So my questions are:
1.) Do I change the Air jet (smaller) along with increasing the Idle jet or just change the Idle jet.
2.) How many sizes can I expect to move on the idle jet?
3.) Are the currently installed jets a good or correct "combo"?

Thanks in Advance to all the Weber experts out there!! (and yeah, I have trolled darn-near all Weber related threads....very few even mention jet sizes and what changes to make due to altitude)


'95 ZJ Laredo, 4.0L, Auto, 225K, Forest Grn
'98 ZJ Laredo, 4.0L, Auto, 210K, White
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post #2 of 149 Old 01-23-2010, 03:23 PM Thread Starter
IdahoJeeper
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Bump

Nobody with a Weber out there lives in higher altitude?

Seems to have cured the cold hard starting issue.

'95 ZJ Laredo, 4.0L, Auto, 225K, Forest Grn
'98 ZJ Laredo, 4.0L, Auto, 210K, White
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post #3 of 149 Old 01-23-2010, 03:52 PM
Fjguercio
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Hi,

If this works out for you like I think it will. When done, I ask you post your question over in the full sized area and this post atleast. Do your links to this also. I have not gone over to full size to offer help but feel this will be good info for them also.

First I think the team rush and some of the ignition upgrades should be done for alll jeeps. Period. One of the best steps for our 30 yr old jeeps is to help the ignition. If we use a weber carb, puts more fuel in there, the ignition tweeks are even more important.... but the should be done by all.

THE MR GASKET low pres fuel regulator IS JUNK
That regulator will cause more issues than solve. If you just purchased try to return because does not work and see if they carry the Holley Low Pressure Regulator.... its the only one to use.

After you get going on this and work further... There will be some advance concepts on the X computer controled jeeps. The computer jeeps, 1982 plus, have a computer a distributor with lots of advance for system but not much mechanial advance. The computer is used to take out advance to where there is not knock. ONCE you get better running.... THE ADVANCE CONCEPT would be to use the old cap as a tool to ck the rotar phasing and to plot your advance curve. Make the curve match or close match to what is in the FSM 1978/1979 to 1981 for the light CJ or in your case Heavier Full Size then look at auto or manual trans. Do not sweat this yet.... you will need to some work twice but I do recommend this step and can help you later when you want to tackle and verified you can. A time light with the advance and rpm is a nice too for this.

The hard start..... again on the computer distributor... guys run higher initial advance number to help with the mechancial limit slots of 4 or 8 deg advance and the non computer has 13 / 18 deg of advance. Mech Advance is used as the engine gains rpms it has more mech advance. So benefit to have this correct. When we get to 8-10 range initial is affects the starting.... too much advance. Using ported vacuum for vac advance might also lower the advance amount when starting. Consider lowering to 6 deg initial for now and your hard starting will improve. You will see later this is huge if you want it to run properly in the mountains and not run prem all the time.

Here is a Weber 34 Tune and jet thread I wrote. The 32/34 and 34 and all the webers work very similar. The jet part numbers will change but the jet size range will be similar. WE look at the screw settings to determin if the Idle Jets are in the correct range. Kinda first step is to make sure engine is sound, maniflod snuged up correctly with torque wrench 25ft # max with a gradual step process start in center and work way to ends in a circular pattern. Ck the carb mount is tight, ck vac hoses. Just make sure things are right. Aux grounds are important.... DuraSpark, Head.... hard start the starter, alt etc

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/weber-34-dgec-carb-too-rich-jets-tune-jeep-4-2-258-a-631105/
Take a few hours and read thu this thread and all the links. Print the Tune Documents, Plug REading, and other info that will help you. Between the thread and links there is easy 3 hrs of reading... I did it the other night again. so dont come back in 15 min and start asking questions. This web stuff takes work on both sides.

4k - 5k is not that high... I grew up 3.2k.... First blush you Idle jet looks a bit big and your run jets look too small.

So read up... then let us know your screw settings.
I put a sharpe dot on the screw slot on one end... makes it easier to count turns and set back to original settings. Get a spiral bound note book and start writing stuff down.

Also pull your plugs and write down what each cylinder looks like. The one by rad is #1. Any soot should be cleaned off gently with wire brush and gap to .045 after team rush, aux grounds, use of copper antizeise on plug threads, Plugs can also clean with carb cleaner. Do your grounds and updates as some of the very first setps.
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post #4 of 149 Old 01-23-2010, 03:57 PM
swatson454
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I was somewhere around 2 1/5 turns out on the mixture screws on my 38 and had to jump from 45s up to 60s to get the mixture screws back into the proper range. I'm guessing that if you're that far out, you may need a decent size jump as well. It seems like a pretty big gap between the primary and secondary idle jets on yours and I'm wondering if an increase to 75/65 would do it.

Is your speed screw more than 1 1/2 turns in?

As for the air correctors, a smaller one would tip in the auxillary booster sooner and hold the main mixture richer as demand increased. I'm not saying that a change won't be needed but I would suggest nailing the idle circuit first.

Hopefully mcmud will pop in here soon. He's pretty durn good with these.

Shawn
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post #5 of 149 Old 01-23-2010, 06:20 PM
Fjguercio
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The screw settings are in the WEBER thread.... 4.5 turns is not a good range...

could be your Mr Gasket they restrict fuel flow, often leak after time, known to cause lots of issues, known as junk and said on the weber thread too.

The air corrector jets would be the last thing to change in the Weber carb set up for jeep 258. Unless in a race situation and need to get the last few rpms out of engine the air correctors will not be changed. You will be plotting and correcting your advance curve long before you touch air correctors.

I doubt you will be will be increasing the idle jets. You have engine base line work to do before almost any work.

AFter you read my thread and links with understanding.... with understanding.... print the important pages and highlight screw settings and adjutment.

Then read the "BAD MPG" thread to see how that went. That thread when on for 300 posts and most should have this done 40 posts. I think there are many mistakes in that thread and I removed all my links and technical information. My Open Top Weber Carb was taken from my thread and used as "their own". I consider the "Bad MPG" thread to be dangerous for the new guy trying to follow and along and correct. It was post 290 before poster found the manifold was missing a mtd bolt, was leaking, and very loud. That is a major miss and was mentioned by me post 4. Manifolds affect operation too much all that little stuff has to be found/corrected before the carb tune.

Hope to hear back in a few days after your reading,
Fred

Last edited by Fjguercio; 01-24-2010 at 12:35 PM.
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post #6 of 149 Old 01-23-2010, 06:43 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys!!

The speed screw is 1 1/4 turns out.

I was thinking the same thing about the idle jets....they are pretty far apart and most setups that I had read about had them a bit closer in value.

'95 ZJ Laredo, 4.0L, Auto, 225K, Forest Grn
'98 ZJ Laredo, 4.0L, Auto, 210K, White
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post #7 of 149 Old 01-23-2010, 06:47 PM
swatson454
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TX93Cherokee View Post
Thanks guys!!

The speed screw is 1 1/4 turns out.

I was thinking the same thing about the idle jets....they are pretty far apart and most setups that I had read about had them a bit closer in value.
It sounds like your speed screw is within the normal range. So you're correct in your assumption about the idle jets. I don't know if you installed the carb yourself but Redlines instructions are very clear, if the mixture screws are turned beyond 2 1/2 turns out, a larger idle jet is needed. End O Story.

Also, do yourself a favor and don't lower your timing to anything less than 8*, it won't like you very much. You won't find any starter issues with the higher initial advance either. If so, it's failing. I had another long conversation with the chief engineer for Redline/Weber and they recommend 12* as a starting point. These things chug at 4 and 6*.

As I'm sure you already know, the air correctors have nothing to do with drag racing. They simply determine when your auxillary venturi tips in and also how much air is allowed to be emulsified in the emulsion tubes. They can be changed if the fuel curve isn't as it should be whether you're going down the strip or to Wal-Mart. The air/fuel mixture needs to be correct and the exact air/fuel ratio will be the same in both cases.

First up, of course, is the idle/progression circuit. It sounds like you already know that so you're 95% there! No sense in reading stuff for three days when you already know the correct way to fix it.

Fred did bring up a good point about the ignition. If you do have a cap with aluminum terminals then it probably ought to go. It's not likely going to affect your tuning of the idle/progression circuit very much but it's good advice.

I'm not a huge fan of regulators as they're not really neccessary. Hopefully you have a gauge and can make sure that the pressure is maintained at a good engine speed as well as at idle. I'm not running one, the senior engineer for Redline/Weber isn't running one, others on here aren't running one and we're all fine. If you already did the work, no worries, just make sure that it's not starving you up higher in the rev range and you'll be just fine.

You have yourself a fine carb, enjoy!

Shawn

Last edited by swatson454; 01-23-2010 at 10:46 PM.
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post #8 of 149 Old 01-24-2010, 06:31 AM
Fjguercio
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S

Quote:
Originally Posted by swatson454 View Post
It sounds like your speed screw is within the normal range. So you're correct in your assumption about the idle jets. I don't know if you installed the carb yourself but Redlines instructions are very clear, if the mixture screws are turned beyond 2 1/2 turns out, a larger idle jet is needed. End O Story..
Before changing any jets.... the overall health of engine needs to be complete

THE FIRST STEP on the carb is to set the idle screw, not the mix screw. The idle screw turns 2 or less after it touches the base. Usually 1.25-1.5 is correct if not in this range. Many seem to miss this step and caution.

This is covered in the WEBER 34 Tune and Jet Thread fully. I see no reason to rehash all that now at this stage in the help process.


Quote:
Originally Posted by swatson454 View Post
Also, do yourself a favor and don't lower your timing to anything less than 8*, it won't like you very much. You won't find any starter issues with the higher initial advance either. If so, it's failing. I had another long conversation with the chief engineer for Redline/Weber and they recommend 12* as a starting point. These things chug at 4 and 6*..
I do not agree. If you are at 12 deg initial advance then your dist is inserted wrong or your need to correct the common issues with X computer distributor and do a recurve procedure. I think you will hard pressed to find another here on JeepForum that will say 12 deg initial is a starting point for initial advance. NO WAY Redline just lost some credibility in my eyes.


Quote:
Originally Posted by swatson454 View Post
As I'm sure you already know, the air correctors have nothing to do with drag racing. They simply determine when your auxillary venturi tips in and also how much air is allowed to be emulsified in the emulsion tubes. They can be changed if the fuel curve isn't as it should be whether you're going down the strip or to Wal-Mart. The air/fuel mixture needs to be correct and the exact air/fuel ratio will be the same in both cases..
I have talked about the corrrector jets with the WEBER ENGINEER with one of the two importers for our industry any way. Weber North America the other is Redline/Worldpac. The Weber 32/35 WEber 34/34 and similar kits are already set up for Jeeps, Suziki, Toyota type of appliations. UNLESS there is a extrem fine tune very few of us, if any will change the air corrector jets. I never said anything about RACING. This would be a last step adjust and simply not necessary for us.


Quote:
Originally Posted by swatson454 View Post
First up, of course, is the idle/progression circuit. It sounds like you already know that so you're 95% there! No sense in reading stuff for three days when you already know the correct way to fix it..
Sorry do not agree. With a 70 Idle jet I would est that 85% that you will be too rich on that. Hey but what do know its a guess at this point. Keep in mind 12,000 have used that thread and I do not see any posts that the process does not work. I actually saw a U tube post talking about my suggestions on weber saying their jeep was running amazing.

As for the reading... its 3 hours not 3 days.
Yes its a necessary step.

Funny Story About Reading... Mr Swatson and Mr McMud say my method and work is not correct. Yet in the "Bad MPG" thread that floundered and they were the main assistance. They were looking for a Jet Purchase Location, Part Numbers, Jet Size Avail and even if the Primary and Secondary Jets were interchangable. So yea reading can keep you somewhat informed. All this information was covered very fully on PAGE ONE of my Weber Tune Thread. I guess they did not read... b


When you skip the reading you get a 300 post thread like "Bad MPG" where mr swantson was trying to help. Just like in HS or College do not read the text/book then you do not get the great test scores. Kinda silly but I think you get the idea. My opinion anyway.

Quote:
Originally Posted by swatson454 View Post
Fred did bring up a good point about the ignition. If you do have a cap with aluminum terminals then it probably ought to go. It's not likely going to affect your tuning of the idle/progression circuit very much but it's good advice..
Thank you... I was saying the TEAMRUSH cap needs to be brass contacts. I saw POSTER was on the TEAMRUSH thread so he most likely has the correct materials. But still worth cking. Keep the OEM Cap you took off you will most likely be cuting a window by the number 1 terminal to verifty the rotar location on spark fire with a time light. An advance step for the X computer/nuttered.

So you can try and run more initial advance approaching what Mr Swatson and Redline suggest, will have hard starts, and will most likely need premium gas to keep from knock/pin cause your initial advance never comes out its always there. Better to correct the min mech advance and tune for the correct advance curve.

Then you initial advance will be 3-8 and will preform well in all situations, no knock, 87/89 octain, and you will not be beeting the heck out of your engine.


Quote:
Originally Posted by swatson454 View Post
I'm not a huge fan of regulators as they're not really neccessary. Hopefully you have a gauge and can make sure that the pressure is maintained at a good engine speed as well as at idle. I'm not running one, the senior engineer for Redline/Weber isn't running one, others on here aren't running one and we're all fine. If you already did the work, no worries, just make sure that it's not starving you up higher in the rev range and you'll be just fine.
Look at any CARB MFG WEB SITE. the fuel pres needs to match the carb needs. A regulator is a industry wide standard. Suppliers like Summit Racing even have tech write ups and say the same stuff.

This is the industry standard, match the specified fuel pressure and use a fuel regulator if need.

The Holly Low Pres Regulator works well and is cheap at 28$ or so. Easy to find. No reason not to use it.

Sorry do not agree.

Last edited by Fjguercio; 01-24-2010 at 12:42 PM.
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post #9 of 149 Old 01-24-2010, 03:49 PM
wm69
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I have a 32/36 I was about to give up on. It always had stinky black smoke at idle, so I took it off, was going to install a rebuild kit in it, put a Holley fuel pressure regulator on it, and reinstall after reading Fred's long post on the 34/34.

I wrote my own topic when I couldn't get the Jeep to run right when I tried to reinstall the carb. It kept backfiring in the header and sometimes up through the carb. I FINALLY discovered that when I pulled my plug boots off to check plugs and put dialectric grease in the boots, I apparently swapped the #5 and #6 wires. I put them back on and put my carb back on the Jeep, and have spent the last few days fine tuning it with the help of McMud.

I was ready to give up on the Weber altogther and McMud kept after me about it, finally convincing me to ship it to him. He went through it, discoverd a check valve was stuck, had to do some extensive work to the choke where there was vacuum leak, put a new LARGER idle jet (75) in it, and sent it back ready to go (and would not accept ANY payment for his time and effort, I might add). I THEN screwed up his settings because my hot wire to electric choke was dead (had to run a new wire), so I started messing with idle speed screw and mixture screw before realizing the choke wasn't opening all the way up. Once I stopped messing with it on my own and started just listening to the instructions I was getting from McMud, the carb started behaving just like he said it would.

Now the thing is on the Jeep. It runs better than it ever has, smooth idle, NO smoke, no strong exhaust/ gas smell. McMud put a BIGGER idle jet in my carb. This is the exact opposite of what Fred recommended, but it made sense when I started tuning per McMuds instructions. With the factory idle jet (65) there was not enough fuel with just the idle jet for the engine to go, which meant the idle speed screw had to be screwed way in, engaging the primary circuit. I'm sure I haven't explained it quite right, but it DID certainly work. I bought this carb new 10 years ago and it runs better now than it ever has. I've had multiple mechanics look at it and fiddle with it, and no one could ever get it to run well without the stink. No stink now, and it will pull strong all the way up to peg the speedo out in my T5 equipped Jeep with 31's and 3.31's.

I'm not through messing with it yet, but I will check my screw settings now and post them here in a bit, and I'll record those so I can put it back to where it is. I'm going to add A/C to this Jeep in the spring and would like to get the idle speed up a little bit without screwing down the idle speed screw. Maybe I could try an 80 idle jet?

Point of all of this? McMud knows these carbs, and what he did to mine FIXED it. I had a couple of MC21XX's ready to go and he told me to give him a chance, and he got it right. Fred offers a lot of info, and I appreciate him taking the time to post up his way of tuning these carbs. Might be more than one way to skin a cat, but I'm a lot more likely to listen to someone who is being helpful and not being condecending while doing so, so I took one source of info (McMud)and went with it. I couldn't be happier.

One last thing. I bought a Holley FPR, FP gauge, and fittings to install it on my Jeep. McMud convinced me to leave it off the Jeep and try the carb without it after the idle jet change he made. After figuring I didn't have anything to lose, I left it off. The conclusion? I don't see any point in it. Jeep runs fine just like it is, so I'll stick to my KISS method and leave out something that apparently isn't neccessary, at least on my particular Jeep. Anybody looking for a Holley FPR that is ready to go complete with guage and barbs, PM me. I'll cut someone a deal. I don't need it.

Thanks again for all the help Terry. I really appreciate your time, kindness, and patience you showed.

85 CJ7 258, borla header, Team Rush, MC2100 ,optima batt, Warn 8274, agr super box 2 & pump, T5 w/ B&M shifter, centerforce 2, superior 1 piece axles, warn hubs 2.5 in lift, 31" BFG MT

85 CJ7 258, A/C, T176, MC2100, Team Rush, Warn XD8000i, superwinch hubs, 3in lift 31" BFG AT/KO
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post #10 of 149 Old 01-24-2010, 06:26 PM
Fjguercio
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wm69 View Post
Figured I would post up how this ended up, just for future reference. Most of what is below was cut/pasted from a thread I just responded to.....
Always a good idea to post the end results. Glad you got it going.

So the WEBER 32/36 after ten years of operation is not longer rich. A GENUINE WEBER TOO RICH. I do not think changing one idle jet 75/70 is going to fix your problem. I would say the TEAMRUSH and updates to ignition and proper time you did not want to touch or fool with on post 1 were more responsible than the jet change. The correct process for setting the screw setting is big affect also.


Quote:
Originally Posted by wm69 View Post
I have a 32/36 I was about to give up on. It always had stinky black smoke at idle, so I took it off, was going to install a rebuild kit in it, put a Holley fuel pressure regulator on it, and reinstall after reading Fred's long post on the 34/34..
"Yep that WEBER 34 is a long post" one page of instruction, and has two one page tune documents.

NICE way to describe a thread for some one that was trying to help.

ARE THERE OTHER WEBER TUNE LINKS ON THE WEB??? WEBER Tune links like my Weber 34 tune and Jet thread. WAIT.... that is the only one! That is the only WEBER TUNE detailed thread on the web. Thats the most weber info you will find in one spot.

Quote:
Originally Posted by wm69 View Post
I wrote my own topic when I couldn't get the Jeep to run right when I tried to reinstall the carb. It kept backfiring in the header and sometimes up through the carb. I FINALLY discovered that when I pulled my plug boots off to check plugs and put dialectric grease in the boots, I apparently swapped the #5 and #6 wires. I put them back on and put my carb back on the Jeep, and have spent the last few days fine tuning it with the help of McMud. (yes, I felt like a total idiot for having gone through so much stuff and missing the plug wires).
So I was pretty close when I said if you are backfire something happended to the time.


Quote:
Originally Posted by wm69 View Post
I was ready to give up on the Weber altogther and McMud kept after me about it, finally convincing me to ship it to him. He went through it, discoverd a check valve was stuck, had to do some extensive work to the choke where there was vacuum leak, put a new LARGER idle jet (75) in it, and sent it back ready to go (and would not accept ANY payment for his time and effort, I might add). I THEN screwed up his settings because my hot wire to electric choke was dead (had to run a new wire), so I started messing with idle speed screw and mixture screw before realizing the choke wasn't opening all the way up. Once I stopped messing with it on my own and started just listening to the instructions I was getting from McMud, the carb started behaving just like he said it would. .
CARBS are a tricky process... any carb. You have to be on your game and get a very good base line to start with. If you tune your carb and then do updates.... you will need to tune your carb again. The best two upgrades for any engine is the ignition and carb for the money spent. When you have 30 yr old mud/water/rust off roaders when they say its the carb... it has to be taken with caution... there are most likely many things that could and should be corrected.

So even after reading MY LONG WEBER 34 and instruction you totally mis what the screw settings were and changed them all around. To keep track of screw setting, what works and all that is pretty big to miss.

Both of our instuctions for WEBER TUNE are very similar. We differ on the first step in the idle screw is not in the right range. I suggest smaller and he is suggestiong larger. The next step is to set the mix screw and if not in the right range it would correct the issue with idel jet. This is true is if he is right or I am right.

Quote:
Originally Posted by wm69 View Post
Now the thing is on the Jeep. It runs better than it ever has, smooth idle, NO smoke, no strong exhaust/ gas smell. McMud put a BIGGER idle jet in my carb. This is the exact opposite of what Fred recommended, but it made sense when I started tuning per McMuds instructions. With the factory idle jet (65) there was not enough fuel with just the idle jet for the engine to go, which meant the idle speed screw had to be screwed way in, engaging the primary circuit. I'm sure I haven't explained it quite right, but it DID certainly work. I bought this carb new 10 years ago and it runs better now than it ever has. I've had multiple mechanics look at it and fiddle with it, and no one could ever get it to run well without the stink. No stink now, and it will pull strong all the way up to peg the speedo out in my T5 equipped Jeep with 31's and 3.31's. .
Ye I would expect that with a TEAMRUSH and ignition upgrade. If you followed my post Weber 34. I too had to increase jet size when I upgraded the ignition. They work hand in hand, it a system and needs to be approached like that. It kinda like making all these changes, rebuiding a carb and not playing with time in 1 deg increments to see what you like for final time tune. Setting time at 8deg and saying its perfect.... like putting it all on one number on craps table, you will loose more often then win.


Quote:
Originally Posted by wm69 View Post
I'm not through messing with it yet, but I will check my screw settings now and post them here in a bit, and I'll record those so I can put it back to where it is. I'm going to add A/C to this Jeep in the spring and would like to get the idle speed up a little bit without screwing down the idle speed screw. Maybe I could try an 80 idle jet?.
If you do not know the exact turns of you idle and mix screw at this point. You have missed the boat and not following direction. Nor can you fine tune the carb without knowing exact turn number. A suggestion is to mark one end of the screw slot with a black sharpe. It helps with counting turns and the location/turns you try as you micro tune. WRITE THEM DOWN.


Quote:
Originally Posted by wm69 View Post
Point of all of this? McMud knows these carbs, and what he did to mine FIXED it. I had a couple of MC21XX's ready to go and he told me to give him a chance, and he got it right. Fred offers a lot of info, and I appreciate him taking the time to post up his way of tuning these carbs. Might be more than one way to skin a cat, but I'm a lot more likely to listen to someone who is being helpful and not being condecending while doing so, so I took one source of info (McMud)and went with it. I couldn't be happier..

There is one way to tune the weber carb. Our methods are very similar.

Yep I did take time to post the tricks and what could be done to max the engine base effeciency before playing with carb. we are not there and have no idea what you have. Nor do we know your skill level or type of work you do. This is not easy thing on the WEB.

AS for Condecending.... You spent a few hours on your task. I spend a geat deal more on my work, and then put the tool together to help others and posted it up on JeepForum. McMud then tells me Weber 34 is not a Genuine WEber and is the reason the CArb does not work. How do you think you would feel after Mike, Swat, McM start posting not a real weber and never work. Just a bunch of noise... Did you see the WEBER lawsuite that Mother company suied a US company for using the WEBER name in their web address I posted up. If they say weber carbs say WEBER its a weber design. So walk in my shoes a bit on this one.

Your helpers last effort to help a weber was 300 posts long... No thats a long thread. Did not go that well.

Yet you have a WEber 32/34 "Genuine" weber as he likes to say. YOU WERE RICH AND STINKY FOR 10 YRS. SO LOOKS AND SOUNDS JUST LIKE THE OTHER SITUATIONS.

So rather than throw stones and it had to be the JET.. Look at the whole picture, be objective, be honest.

Quote:
Originally Posted by wm69 View Post
One last thing. I bought a Holley FPR, FP gauge, and fittings to install it on my Jeep. McMud convinced me to leave it off the Jeep and try the carb without it after the idle jet change he made. After figuring I didn't have anything to lose, I left it off. The conclusion? I don't see any point in it. Jeep runs fine just like it is.
Keep in mind.... WEBER and all the other CARB Manufactures have a recommended fuel pressure for their carbs. THE STADARD INDUSTRY METHOD is to use a regulator and make the presure equal to what is needed. Glad you got it to work. Do you have a fuel return line and dual outlet fuel filter too? McMud also says there is a rubber tiped needle to help seal off the extra fuel pres from mechanical pump. Did this come in your kit or did McMud put it in.

These are the kinda of things to consider before you post up and lead the other JeepForum Member down a merry path.

I hope that gives you more to consider.

Congrads.
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post #11 of 149 Old 01-24-2010, 09:10 PM
wm69
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1985 CJ7 
 
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Posts: 4,178
Fred, I moved my response to my own thread. I don't need to clutter the OP's post.

85 CJ7 258, borla header, Team Rush, MC2100 ,optima batt, Warn 8274, agr super box 2 & pump, T5 w/ B&M shifter, centerforce 2, superior 1 piece axles, warn hubs 2.5 in lift, 31" BFG MT

85 CJ7 258, A/C, T176, MC2100, Team Rush, Warn XD8000i, superwinch hubs, 3in lift 31" BFG AT/KO
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post #12 of 149 Old 01-30-2010, 08:24 PM Thread Starter
IdahoJeeper
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1995 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Pocatello, Idaho
Posts: 230
Update - 1/30/2010

Alright....parts arrived and I finally had a few moments to install and tune.

I ordered the Redline 701-DGV4A High Altitude Jet Kit. It contains a variety of primary and secondary idle, main, and air jets.

Here's what I installed:
Primary Secondary
Idle 65 55
Main 140 145
Air 180 190

So I stepped the primary and secondary air jets up by 2, dropped my primary idle jet by one, kept the secondary idle jet as is, kept the primary main jet as is, and bumped the secondary main by one step over what had been in it.

Stepped through the "Best Lean Idle" procedure, making sure the throttle plates are closed at the beginning. I did not hook up the vacuum gauge to the ported vacuum port to verify 0 Hg at idle. I'll save that for another day.

Ended up with: Idle Speed screw out 1.5 turns from first contact. Idle Mixture Screw out 1.75 turns from 'seated'. Old IMS setting was 4.5 turns out.

Rig runs great. I went for a short (5 mile) drive. Before all this, I could only rev to about 2500 rpm and couldn't maintain speed on a long uphilll grade in 4th or 5th gear. Now it hauls right along. I can take it up to 3000 rpm with no hiccups/burps/farts. It didn't scrub off any speed going up the same hill in 5th gear. I pulled the #1 plug and it was a bit on the lean-looking end of the spectrum. I can work on that as time permits.

Before ya'll flame me for changing the air jets, allow me to quote from the instructions that came with the Redline jet kit:
Simple Basic Rules to Remember: Three air jet size changes are equal to one fuel jet size change. When altitude is increased you will need to increase the air jet over (instead of) the fuel jet. Commonly, this is done just the opposite, reducing the fuel jet and the result is less power

I appreciate the input and PM's that everyone has provided. These Webers and getting 'em set up correctly seems to be a "hot button" around here lately.

I hope someone besides myself gets something out of this thread.

Thanks again, JF....you rock!!

'95 ZJ Laredo, 4.0L, Auto, 225K, Forest Grn
'98 ZJ Laredo, 4.0L, Auto, 210K, White
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post #13 of 149 Old 01-30-2010, 08:44 PM
Fjguercio
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1978 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Burnsville, MN
Posts: 2,812
Congrads.

The 140 main jet looks a bit small. Most carbs I am seeing WEber and Others for 258 generaly have approx 147 for jets. I am running 147.5 and 150 for run jets
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post #14 of 149 Old 01-30-2010, 08:46 PM Thread Starter
IdahoJeeper
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Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Pocatello, Idaho
Posts: 230
Yeah, Fred, I'm thinking about bumping those up.

'95 ZJ Laredo, 4.0L, Auto, 225K, Forest Grn
'98 ZJ Laredo, 4.0L, Auto, 210K, White
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post #15 of 149 Old 01-30-2010, 09:16 PM
swatson454
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1983 CJ7 
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Texas Hill Country
Posts: 6,705
Nice work on your understanding of the importance of the idle jets and progression circuit. Glad it worked well.

Shawn

P.s. Thanks for quoting actual verbage from genuine Weber tune documents.
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