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Unread 10-15-2013, 04:31 PM   #61
teedubbaya
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Talked to Tom at Redline and have a 38 on the way! He says they're out of F-7 emulsion tubes and have been for 3 months. But I'm getting viton needle and seat with it.
Thanks for the help guys, and I'll follow up once the new carb gets here!

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Unread 10-22-2013, 12:33 PM   #62
teedubbaya
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Just a quick update. Haven't got to the carb yet and it's been killing me! It's been sitting on my bench for a week now with no time to work on it. I was planning on doing some work this Saturday, but I discovered that my cousin has a CJ that he dropped a 350 into and has the 258 just sitting with no intent to use, so he's letting me take it. So road trip to pick it up Saturday!
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Unread 10-28-2013, 06:01 PM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by teedubbaya View Post
Just a quick update. Haven't got to the carb yet and it's been killing me! It's been sitting on my bench for a week now with no time to work on it. I was planning on doing some work this Saturday, but I discovered that my cousin has a CJ that he dropped a 350 into and has the 258 just sitting with no intent to use, so he's letting me take it. So road trip to pick it up Saturday!
Hey Tony,
Hope you had a good time on your road trip.

Did you get the engine AND the used Duracrap module?

Waiting patiently to hear how your 38-DGES is working.

I also have a new in the box MSD "clone", DIGITAL 6 multi-spark ignition box and coil for sale if you want to replace your module.

Let us know.

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Unread 10-29-2013, 02:38 PM   #64
teedubbaya
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Originally Posted by uptillnow View Post
Hey Tony,
Hope you had a good time on your road trip.
Did you get the engine AND the used Duracrap module?
5 hours up, and 5 hours back on Saturday. It was a beautiful fall day and my wife and I got to take a nice trip to my uncle's farm.
Ok, so I'm going to show my newb-ness and ask what a duracrap module is.
All I got was the engine (with plugs, wires, motorcraft dizzy, coil, rust-locked Carter) and T-150 3-speed.

On a side note...the engine I got, turns out, had been sitting in a shed for 5 years. Got it home and on the stand. Pulled the carb and saw water at the bottom of the intake manifold. Pulled the manifolds, and #1, 2 and 6 intake valves are rusted. Pulled the head and it doesn't look like any water got into the cylinders. So, I get to learn how to rebuild an engine!

Any recovery from this?
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Unread 10-29-2013, 03:10 PM   #65
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Originally Posted by teedubbaya View Post
Ok, so I'm going to show my newb-ness and ask what a duracrap module is.
All I got was the engine (with plugs, wires, motorcraft dizzy, coil, rust-locked Carter) and T-150 3-speed.
Sorry about that....

Duraspark is the ignition module. The Original Motocraft was pretty good, but replacements are usually made to economical specifications, in the far east, somewhere.

We've all pretty much changed our ignitions to the H.E.I.'s, or MSD multispark capacitive discharge ignitions, or (I) just wired in a GM 4-pin module.

I asked this because I believe you said you left your ignition on and cooked something. I may be wrong and read it somewhere else.

The term "Duracrap" is slang for Duraspark ignition modules. My bad...

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Unread 10-29-2013, 03:16 PM   #66
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Originally Posted by teedubbaya View Post
Crap! Came out to garage after being gone 3 hours to find I left the ignition on from when I compression tested. Have I likely toasted something? The coil was disconnected from the dizzy. The coil temp is about 130*.
Tony,
I went bad to check where I read you left the ignition on, here it is.

Just wondering if it will start and run, should be OK.

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Unread 11-05-2013, 01:39 PM   #67
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Originally Posted by swatson454 View Post
See if you can get him to install F-7 emulsion tubes and a viton needle and seat for you, assuming they even do custom assemblies.
Shawn
Hey Shawn, they sent the Viton with the carb, but not installed. Is the Viton setting the same as the Weber needle/seat (18mm gasket to top of float with a 2mm drop on the needle valve)?
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Unread 11-05-2013, 06:17 PM   #68
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Yeppers


Shawn
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Unread 11-05-2013, 09:49 PM   #69
teedubbaya
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Matt, Shawn, and UTN,
Finally got everything buttoned up and the 38 put on. It had been so long since the CJ ran, I had to jump it. But when it started...
Oh...my...word!!! Out of the box, with Redline's base setup, it is running 100% better!!! I let it warm up, and it settled right in at about 550 rpm. A little rich sputter, but I went to work tuning and so far have found that my idle mix is at 5/8 out, and idle speed is at 1 1/8 in to get 600 rpm (what is optimal idle?). I need to run it some more and get the cooling burped (had to drain some to do the valve cover repair) and spend some more time on it before I get back to you with more results. It is still blowing a little black smoke when I blip the throttle, but nothing like before.
I think these settings are pretty early in the game.
But I just wanted to update you guys and say THANK YOU!!!
My head is feeling much better since I stopped banging it on the wall!!

One question: The 38 instructions say to remove the studs and use the supplied bolts for the air cleaner, but the bolts are a different size (bigger). Is that normal, or do I need to head to the hardware store for $.65 worth of new bolts?
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Unread 11-30-2013, 09:39 PM   #70
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Guys, FINALLY got the time to set up the 38, and here's where I'm at.
I did have idle mix at 5/8 and speed at 3/4. That was good for 600 rpm, but when it was warmed up, after I shut it off, restarting won't stay running unless I blip the gas, and it sputters a bit for the first 10 sec.

After a solid warm up and timing check (10*, no manifold vac, 600 rpm), idle mix is 7/8 turn out, and idle speed is 5/8 in and that's giving me 700 rpm idle. It still has a little sputter every couple seconds, and seems to start a *little* better.
Unfortunately, I won't have access to the jeep for the next 2 weeks, so I won't have time to run this by Tom at Redine till after the 15th. So I'm just throwing these settings out there for your thoughts.

On a side note, about 3 weeks after I bought the 38 from Redline, I got a voicemail from Tom checking in with me to see if it's working ok because he hadn't heard anything from me. That's service!
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Unread 12-01-2013, 04:46 AM   #71
Matt1981CJ7
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Tony,

The baseline settings for the 38 are:

- 1 turn out on the mixture screws.
- 1/2 turn in on the speed screw.

The general rule of thumb is the lean best idle should occur with the mixture screws no more than 1-1/2 turns out, and the speed screw 3/4 turns in, or less. It sounds like you are well within those parameters. Nice work!!

The sputter is most likely a small vacuum leak. How does it start when you plug the vac advance into manifold vacuum?

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Unread 12-01-2013, 10:25 AM   #72
teedubbaya
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Matt, the vac advance is already plugged in the manifold port.
Ok, I misunderstood the instructions, thinking the baseline setting from the paperwork was what the ideal lean best idle would be set at, and a deviation from that would determine if I need different jets, etc.

Well cool! Glad to know I'm in the zone with this carb. Again, what a difference this 38 has made over that EMPI 32/36. That, and getting the correct water pump installed helped too! :-)
Now on to fine tuning the timing.
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Unread 12-03-2013, 04:10 AM   #73
Matt1981CJ7
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Tony,

Glad to hear you're enjoying the Weber 38. It was my clear favorite on my 258, too.

And that guy Tom, at Redline, doesn't suck, either.

Keep us posted on the fine tuning.

Matt
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