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Unread 05-21-2013, 05:20 AM   #91
keith460
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GlennLever View Post

Here they are side by side, note the throttle linkage is different and the 38 has studs for the Weber air filter. Also note the straight mechanical linkage on the 38. The expert that is guiding me installed .50MM Idle Jets, 1.45 MM Main Jets, 1.70 MM Air Corrector Jets, f7 Emulsion tubes, Vitro tip need valve.

Swapping the throttle linkage was very simple as I had followed the instruction when it was installed so it came apart very easily


Also note that the fuel inlet on the 38 is on the opposite side of the 32/36. A new fuel line will have to be made up.

When I got back I added an additional 2 degrees in timing, now at 10.

Maybe this will remove the weak spot at 1/3 throttle????

More later.

Questions?
So the 38 comes equipped with the Vitron tipped needle and seat, that's good. I purchased that separately for the 32/36.

Why is it that the 38 did not come with the throttle linkage like the 32/36? Is that the way you ordered it for cost savings or is that the way they come regardless?

Couldn't you move the fuel inlet to the side you wanted it on? I was able to do this on the 32/36.

My timing is set to 10 BTDC and full manifold vacuum. Seems to be the best all around setting for my driving habits.

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Unread 05-21-2013, 05:41 AM   #92
GlennLever
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt1981CJ7 View Post
Glenn,

Mine ran best with the distributer hooked to manifold, not ported.

Good luck,

Matt
I have been resisting this mod as I am truly looking for stock performance. I'm going to have to put a vacuum pump and gauge on the vacuum advance and see if it continues to advance above 15 pounds. If it does I will make the mod.

Raining here right now, no test drive this morning on the highway (I'm topless).
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Unread 05-21-2013, 05:53 AM   #93
Matt1981CJ7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GlennLever View Post
Raining here right now, no test drive this morning on the highway (I'm topless).
Well, throw a shirt on and go for a drive....

Speaking of stock performance, you do realize your original distributor ran solely off of manifold vac, don't you?

Here"s the 1984 vacuum layout, from the FSM, that shows manifold directly to the dizzy. The second layout is the one that worked best for me with my 38 and no computer.

Matt
vacuhose.jpg.jpeg   vacuumlayout2.jpg  
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Unread 05-21-2013, 05:56 AM   #94
GlennLever
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Quote:
Originally Posted by keith460 View Post
So the 38 comes equipped with the Vitron tipped needle and seat, that's good. I purchased that separately for the 32/36.

Why is it that the 38 did not come with the throttle linkage like the 32/36? Is that the way you ordered it for cost savings or is that the way they come regardless?

Couldn't you move the fuel inlet to the side you wanted it on? I was able to do this on the 32/36.

My timing is set to 10 BTDC and full manifold vacuum. Seems to be the best all around setting for my driving habits.
The Vitron tip was an added extra, was done after the fact. A point was made that the one inlet two out let fuel filter was a must. I already had it so it was not a big thing.

I did not specify the throttle linkage, did not think about it. When you think about it no sense in spending the extra dollars when you already have it on the 32/36 though. Resale value on a use carb is so low that the throttle linkage will make no difference there, I just put the one that came on the 38 on the 32/36.

The fuel inlet on the 32 is threaded on both sides with a threaded plug in one and a screwed in fitting in the other. This allows you to switch them around how you like. The 38 comes with a pressed in fitting on one side and the other blocked off.

I did not want to remove the top of the carb pull out the fitting, drill out the blocked off side, thread both sides, insert the plug on the side I did not want the inlet and move the inlet to the correct side before testing the application. I will do this once the Jeep is running correctly. I do not like the new fuel line running across the carb.
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Unread 05-21-2013, 06:00 AM   #95
GlennLever
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt1981CJ7 View Post
Well, throw a shirt on and go for a drive....

Speaking of stock performance, you do realize your original distributor ran solely off of manifold vac, don't you?

Here"s the 1984 vacuum layout, from the FSM, that shows manifold directly to the dizzy. The second layout is the one that worked best for me with my 38 and no computer.

Matt
Wow, I did a lot of research when I hooked this 32/36 up and removed all the original vacuum stuff. I'll have to go back and review why I hooked it up this way.
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My restoration thread here on the Jeep forum
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Unread 05-21-2013, 10:18 AM   #96
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Here is another update, still raining.

Went out into the garage and started the Jeep, One pump of the peddle, turn the key and it fires right up.

With the 32/36 I would pump two or three time turn the key it would fire and then run out of fuel. I would have to do this a total of three time when the Jeep sat over night, an then it would fire up and run.
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My restoration thread here on the Jeep forum
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Unread 05-21-2013, 03:45 PM   #97
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Ok, I got it out.

Bottom end seems better (even better that the 32/36).

There is still a weak, mushy spot between 1/3 and 1/2 throttle, above 1/2 throttle above 1500 RPM it slowly picks up.

Top end is disappointing but better.

Jeep holds it's own on a long incline at 55 MPH, it used to lose ground on the same incline.

On a flat it got up to 65 not that I would ever cruise at that speed. It has never gotten to 65 before.

So it is better, but still lacks something (i'm not looking for a hot rod, but it has no spunk at all above 50)

It sounds crisper, if I was tuning the dragster I would say the air fuel ratio is better.

I'm thinking of taking the static timing to 12 degrees and see what happens.
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Unread 05-21-2013, 04:07 PM   #98
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Glenn,

I agree that 12* is worth a try. I'll also submit that if you haven't optimized the timing curve like what was done in Matt's thread, your ignition could be what's holding a much-better carb back.

Do you have the F7 emulsion tubes installed?


Shawn
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Unread 05-21-2013, 04:50 PM   #99
GlennLever
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swatson454 View Post
Glenn,

I agree that 12* is worth a try. I'll also submit that if you haven't optimized the timing curve like what was done in Matt's thread, your ignition could be what's holding a much-better carb back.

Do you have the F7 emulsion tubes installed?


Shawn
I'll try the 12 degrees.

Started reading Matt's Thread, I don't know that I have the patience to read through the whole thing, any chance for a Clift notes version?

42 degrees total advance wow.

Does this distributor have the Allen wrench adjustment inside the vacuum port?

This is getting to be a much bigger project that I wanted, I guess that is true of all projects though..
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Unread 05-21-2013, 05:06 PM   #100
Matt1981CJ7
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Glenn,

What dizzy are you running?

If it's the original, then you only have about 8 degrees of centrifugal advance. The pre-computer versions had up to 18*.

As Shawn suggested, your upper-end may be suffering from too little centrifugal advance.

Matt
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Unread 05-21-2013, 06:09 PM   #101
GlennLever
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt1981CJ7 View Post
Glenn,

What dizzy are you running?

If it's the original, then you only have about 8 degrees of centrifugal advance. The pre-computer versions had up to 18*.

As Shawn suggested, your upper-end may be suffering from too little centrifugal advance.

Matt
The distributor is the original one that came in the vehicle. This did have the computer in the vehicle which has been removed



Coil is an MSD blaster, Ignition box is a MSD 6
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Unread 05-21-2013, 06:29 PM   #102
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I was also thinking emulsion tubes.

It's what controls the a/f ratio through the power band.

Vacuum advance won't have much effect on something like that as the will be no vacuum advance at WOT.

Advancing or retarding the distributor might just move the flat spot up or down or force you to run premium gas.

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Unread 05-21-2013, 06:33 PM   #103
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Glenn,

Would you expect much from your dragster if you only gave it 8* total advance? Poor Jeep

J/K, that's a mod you should really consider doing, though.


Shawn
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Unread 05-21-2013, 06:37 PM   #104
Matt1981CJ7
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Adding to Shawn's post....

I recommend buying a pre-computer Motorcraft for a 1979 CJ. Make sure it has the 13* and 18* advance slots on the head. You can see the advance slot labels thru the peep hole in the top plate ( see pics below).

I found my 258 ran best set to 11* initial, the 18* centrifugal advance slot on the head, and a light pair of springs. That gave me around 35* total (centrifugal and intitial) at 3000 RPM, which seemed to be the ticket.

I also recommend the "Team rush" upgrade to the Motorcraft dizzy. Do a search, there's a butt-load of info on it.

Matt
dizzyrework4.jpg   dizzypeephole.jpg  
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Unread 05-21-2013, 07:56 PM   #105
GlennLever
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John Strenk View Post
I was also thinking emulsion tubes.

It's what controls the a/f ratio through the power band.

Vacuum advance won't have much effect on something like that as the will be no vacuum advance at WOT.

Advancing or retarding the distributor might just move the flat spot up or down or force you to run premium gas.

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I have the F7 Emulsion tubes

Quote:
Originally Posted by swatson454 View Post
Glenn,

Would you expect much from your dragster if you only gave it 8* total advance? Poor Jeep

J/K, that's a mod you should really consider doing, though.


Shawn
That was 8 degrees of static timing, add to that centrifugal and vacuum

"J/K, that's a mod you should really consider doing, though" want mod is that, I lost the train of thought.
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My restoration thread here on the Jeep forum
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New FED, Drag Racing Forum (I am an Administrator) at
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