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Unread 05-05-2013, 11:37 AM   #16
GlennLever
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sanctified View Post
I'm good to about 55 but figured it dropped off after that due to my 2.7x gears and 32" tires. I am interested in seeing what you find out and whether you can get it to behave like you want it to.
If I solve this problem I will post it.

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Glenn R. Lever
Rochester, New York 14617-2012
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Unread 05-05-2013, 11:39 AM   #17
GlennLever
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Quote:
Originally Posted by keith460 View Post
My Weber 32/36 suffers somewhat of the same fate. Good low end grunt but kinda fizzles out above 2600rpm.

30 over pistons aren't helping either and I will probably go with a 38 DGS Weber this summer or fall. Already have a Pre computer years distributor installed (1979 model) with spring and timing curves modified but haven't been able to get the Jeep out of its winter storage yet for driving due to a very busy traveling work schedule.

Sent from my iPhone using JeepForum
Back when I purchased this 32/36 it was raved about being the perfect carb for a 285.

I like the low end, but there is not upper end. I cannot take a hill on the expressway
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Glenn R. Lever
Rochester, New York 14617-2012
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My restoration thread here on the Jeep forum
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Unread 05-05-2013, 11:40 AM   #18
GlennLever
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Balvar24 View Post
Holy clean engine compartment Batman! Are you sure you've ran that thing long enough to identify a problem? Maybe you just need to burn the new off of it?
This is the second year on the clean up and 1,800 miles. Use it around town all the time.
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Glenn R. Lever
Rochester, New York 14617-2012
My Cars http://www.leverfamilysite.com/vehicles.htm

My restoration thread here on the Jeep forum
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/cj...build-1269301/

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Unread 05-05-2013, 11:42 AM   #19
GlennLever
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt1981CJ7 View Post
I've never understood why Redline, and others, claim the 32/36 is the best choice for a stock 258, and the 38 is only for modified engines.

Heck, I think they put the 32/36 in cars with engines as small as 2.3L, perhaps smaller.

Matt
Red Line customer service stinks, it you are outside of the "support time frame" they do not want to talk to you. I'm very disappointed in their attitude.
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Glenn R. Lever
Rochester, New York 14617-2012
My Cars http://www.leverfamilysite.com/vehicles.htm

My restoration thread here on the Jeep forum
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/cj...build-1269301/

New FED, Drag Racing Forum (I am an Administrator) at
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Unread 05-05-2013, 11:42 AM   #20
GlennLever
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mwalker649 View Post
I don't know anything about em, but I'm having an 85 CJ restored at V3 Jeep shop in Louisville Ky and we just had the Carb talk. They said they prefer the Weber and have through the years of working with them, learned to re-jet and make em work flawlessly. You might give them a call (on web) ask for Rich and he might tell you what they do.
Do you have a name and phone for contact?
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Glenn R. Lever
Rochester, New York 14617-2012
My Cars http://www.leverfamilysite.com/vehicles.htm

My restoration thread here on the Jeep forum
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/cj...build-1269301/

New FED, Drag Racing Forum (I am an Administrator) at
http://www.frontenginedragsters.org/forum/index.php
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Unread 05-05-2013, 11:43 AM   #21
GlennLever
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bkeese View Post
Is that the stock air cleaner? I didn't know they would fit a Weber.
Yes it is a stock air cleaner for a Jeep without power brakes, Weber has a kit to make it fit.
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Glenn R. Lever
Rochester, New York 14617-2012
My Cars http://www.leverfamilysite.com/vehicles.htm

My restoration thread here on the Jeep forum
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/cj...build-1269301/

New FED, Drag Racing Forum (I am an Administrator) at
http://www.frontenginedragsters.org/forum/index.php
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Unread 05-05-2013, 11:46 AM   #22
GlennLever
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt1981CJ7 View Post
It requires an adapter, which most Weber dealers will have.

Glenn, I highly recommend you contact Tom at Redline. He's a big Jeep fan, also a member here, and he knows the Webers inside and out. Perhaps he'll work out some sort of exchange deal for a 38...it's worth asking.

Either way, I'm sure he'll offer good advice, and he will have the necessary little parts, if you decide to re-jet the 32/36.

Matt
I sent you a PM
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Glenn R. Lever
Rochester, New York 14617-2012
My Cars http://www.leverfamilysite.com/vehicles.htm

My restoration thread here on the Jeep forum
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/cj...build-1269301/

New FED, Drag Racing Forum (I am an Administrator) at
http://www.frontenginedragsters.org/forum/index.php
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Unread 05-05-2013, 02:25 PM   #23
mwalker649
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GlennLever View Post
Do you have a name and phone for contact?
google V3 jeep shop find number ask for Rich
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Unread 05-06-2013, 10:49 AM   #24
uptillnow
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GlennLever and the boys,
I have been reading these posts from some very knowledgeable Weber tuners. I am a little surprised we haven't started from the beginning sota speak.
Briefly,
It is absolutely mandatory that the idle speed screw be at or slightly less than 1 1/2 turns in from the "COMPLETE" closed position.
You would read ZERO vacuum at the "S" ported vacuum source to the right of the choke and down on the mounting base of the carb.
I am quite sure you are not there "yet".
Slow the engine down as slow as you can with the Idle speed screw on the carburetor.
Then, readjust the ignition timing. Typically we are taking the distributer out of it's centrifugal advance. (aprox 8-10 btdc)
With a .75mm primary idle jet you should find the "lean best idle" somewhere between 1 7/8 turns to 2 1/4 turns out.

Where are your settings, do you know what jetting you have?

Shaun makes a great point about the F7 emulsion tubes in the secondary barrel, that would be after we get this to smoothly accelerate through the RPM range.

The 32/36 DGEV is and has always been an economy alternative carburetor. The 32mm primary barrel will work on a stock 4.2/258 engine, then at 1/2 throttle start to open the secondary barrel.
The 38 DGES is virtually the same size as the OE carb BBD, and is not considered "over carbureted", as it is the same size as what was originally designed for the engine. (Same as the MC2100 & MC2150.)
REDLINE claims it is the "mandatory" choice if you have upgraded your engines performance.
REDLINE did these conversions for the 258 Jeep many many years ago using the 38 DGES, as it was the same size as the BBD, (makes sense). The industry clamored, begged and negotiated for a better prices.
At a certain point the only way to make it cost less was to use the 32/36DGEV which at that time 25 years or so ago was $50.00 less than the 38DGES, that is a big deal when it comes to the reselling price.

Let us know where your settings are, or try to get your setting at the bottom line base line settings and we can see where this takes us.

UPTILLNOW
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Unread 05-06-2013, 11:15 AM   #25
uptillnow
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I was able to find this write up about making the right choice.
UPTILLNOW
making-right-choice.jpg  
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Unread 05-06-2013, 12:44 PM   #26
keith460
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GlennLever View Post
Back when I purchased this 32/36 it was raved about being the perfect carb for a 285.

I like the low end, but there is not upper end. I cannot take a hill on the expressway
Can't say I have that problem going up any hills, even in 5th gear overdrive.

What is your axle gearing, I don't see it posted in your profile? You may be suffering from lugging the engine due to poor gear ratio but I'm sure you know all about that Glenn.
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Unread 05-06-2013, 12:58 PM   #27
Renegade82
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So, what you and the article are saying, in a nutshell, is the 32/36 is equal to the carter bbd in performance and slightly better in gas milage, but to increase the performance on the 32/36 you need a re-jetting kit. Buying the 38 though will get you there quicker though??
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Unread 05-06-2013, 01:13 PM   #28
GlennLever
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uptillnow View Post
GlennLever and the boys,
I have been reading these posts from some very knowledgeable Weber tuners. I am a little surprised we haven't started from the beginning sota speak.
Briefly,
It is absolutely mandatory that the idle speed screw be at or slightly less than 1 1/2 turns in from the "COMPLETE" closed position.
You would read ZERO vacuum at the "S" ported vacuum source to the right of the choke and down on the mounting base of the carb.
I am quite sure you are not there "yet".
Slow the engine down as slow as you can with the Idle speed screw on the carburetor.
Then, readjust the ignition timing. Typically we are taking the distributer out of it's centrifugal advance. (aprox 8-10 btdc)
With a .75mm primary idle jet you should find the "lean best idle" somewhere between 1 7/8 turns to 2 1/4 turns out.

Where are your settings, do you know what jetting you have?

Shaun makes a great point about the F7 emulsion tubes in the secondary barrel, that would be after we get this to smoothly accelerate through the RPM range.

The 32/36 DGEV is and has always been an economy alternative carburetor. The 32mm primary barrel will work on a stock 4.2/258 engine, then at 1/2 throttle start to open the secondary barrel.
The 38 DGES is virtually the same size as the OE carb BBD, and is not considered "over carbureted", as it is the same size as what was originally designed for the engine. (Same as the MC2100 & MC2150.)
REDLINE claims it is the "mandatory" choice if you have upgraded your engines performance.
REDLINE did these conversions for the 258 Jeep many many years ago using the 38 DGES, as it was the same size as the BBD, (makes sense). The industry clamored, begged and negotiated for a better prices.
At a certain point the only way to make it cost less was to use the 32/36DGEV which at that time 25 years or so ago was $50.00 less than the 38DGES, that is a big deal when it comes to the reselling price.

Let us know where your settings are, or try to get your setting at the bottom line base line settings and we can see where this takes us.

UPTILLNOW
Thanks.

I will start at the beginning as you have indicated

I do not know what F7 emulsion tubes are

I have a stock application here, no modifications to the engine and am not looking to increase performance. I took the computer, ignition box, and stock carb off as they were not functioning and am looking for stock performance. I have a basic MSD box for ignition and the Weber right out of the box bolted on.

Idle is about 550 RPM and low end is stock performance, above 45 MPH in fourth it is dead.

I will pull the secondary jet tomorrow and post it, my feeling is it is lean
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Glenn R. Lever
Rochester, New York 14617-2012
My Cars http://www.leverfamilysite.com/vehicles.htm

My restoration thread here on the Jeep forum
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/cj...build-1269301/

New FED, Drag Racing Forum (I am an Administrator) at
http://www.frontenginedragsters.org/forum/index.php
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Unread 05-06-2013, 01:16 PM   #29
uptillnow
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Renegade82 View Post
So, what you and the article are saying, in a nutshell, is the 32/36 is equal to the carter bbd in performance and slightly better in gas milage, but to increase the performance on the 32/36 you need a re-jetting kit. Buying the 38 though will get you there quicker though??
What "I" am saying is the 32/36 is and always has been an economy carburetor for the 4.2/258 Jeep engine.
It can and does work on a reasonably stock engine...
The 38DGES is the same size (virtually) as the BBD and a "Mandatory" choice if you have improved the performance of your engine.
"I" am saying I use a 38DGES on a stock engine and love the performance and highly recommend it's use.

By changing the air fuel ratio in the 32/36 DGEV on the same size engine and add performance parts will help hide the fact that the 32mm primary barrel it is too small for what you are trying to do.
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Unread 05-06-2013, 01:30 PM   #30
uptillnow
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GlennLever View Post
Thanks.

I will start at the beginning as you have indicated

I do not know what F7 emulsion tubes are

I have a stock application here, no modifications to the engine and am not looking to increase performance. I took the computer, ignition box, and stock carb off as they were not functioning and am looking for stock performance. I have a basic MSD box for ignition and the Weber right out of the box bolted on.

Idle is about 550 RPM and low end is stock performance, above 45 MPH in fourth it is dead.

I will pull the secondary jet tomorrow and post it, my feeling is it is lean
What typically comes in these progressive carbs are as follows:

.75mm Pri Idle
.60mm Secondary low speed idle
1.45mm main fuel Primary & Secondary
1.70mm Primary Air Jet
1.60mm Secondary Air Jet
F50 (both) emulsion tubes
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