Webber questions about fuel pressure regulator and fuel return line - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 27 Old 02-01-2009, 07:14 PM Thread Starter
jatepper
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1985 CJ7 
 
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Webber questions about fuel pressure regulator and fuel return line

OK. In the middle of installing a Weber 32/36 and I have a few questions. My jeep is an 1985 CJ7 258 Automatic with zero engine mods aside from this new carb.

Question #1: I thought I heard somewhere to eliminate the fuel return line when using the Holly Fuel Pressure Regulator. Any input on this? I dont see how this could be a problem, but like I said I thought I read it somewhere.

Question #2: I have heard setting the FPR anywhere between 2-5 psi. Can anyone chime in with what has/has not worked for them?

Question #3: Trying to tye in the fuel filter and regulator, I am running in to some issues as where to put everything. I want to move everything away from the exhaust manifold area (factory location). Can I use rubber fuel line right from the fuel pump? Any thoughts or recommendations?

Question #4: The FPR did not come with appropriate fittings for fuel lines. All I have been able to find are air hose fittings with the "notches" instead of the straight tube with the end flare that is generally used for this type of application. What are your thoughts on using this notched fitting for my fuel lines to/from the FPR?


1986 CJ7 Laredo - Triple Black Automatic 14k miles
1985 CJ7 Renegade - Automatic 33k miles
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post #2 of 27 Old 02-01-2009, 07:20 PM
curbcrawler
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I dont run one. the factory mechanical pump varies in pressure. I tried to run a regulater didnt work too good so I took it to a carb expert. he made few small adjustments and hookrd it up without a the regulater runs like a raped ape. he explaned that mechanical pumps on the cjs pump lower psi than factory claims.
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post #3 of 27 Old 02-01-2009, 08:32 PM
Sprkplug
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I run the Weber 32/36. Your CJ's mechanical fuel pump puts out to much pressure for the Weber. I installed an adjustable regulator. I ran it at 3 -4lbs on the road and 1 to 1/2 lbs offroad. Never had any problems with it.

I did have to adjust the float in the carb when it was new. Problems with flooding out at extreme angles when offroading (fuel pressure regulator alone will not prevent it).

Sparkplug

1978 Jeep CJ 7 258 6cyl Quadra-Trac with T400. Custom 3" body lift. Flatfendered. Custom bumpers. Full 6 point roll cage. 36" IROK's. 2 1/2 suspenion lift and 1/2 shackle lift. GM HEI, Superior 1-piece axles, 4.88 gears, Weber carb. Locked front and rear. Best of all, fours sons who LOVE TO RIDE!
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post #4 of 27 Old 02-01-2009, 09:12 PM
CJ Chet
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Weber recomends no more than 3.5 PSI. I have a Holley regulator (at 3.5) and it runs great. I wouldn't use anything but the Holley. If you see "Mr. Gasket, RUN in the other direction - It is absolute JUNK!
Here's how mine is setup:





I got the fittings at the local Autozone. I also use an electric fuel pump, but that's just me.

'86 CJ7
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post #5 of 27 Old 02-01-2009, 10:00 PM
Sprkplug
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CJ Chet View Post
Weber recomends no more than 3.5 PSI. If you see "Mr. Gasket, RUN in the other direction - It is absolute JUNK!
I would have to disagree. I've run the Mr. Gasket FPR for 4 years, no problems at all.

Sparkplug

1978 Jeep CJ 7 258 6cyl Quadra-Trac with T400. Custom 3" body lift. Flatfendered. Custom bumpers. Full 6 point roll cage. 36" IROK's. 2 1/2 suspenion lift and 1/2 shackle lift. GM HEI, Superior 1-piece axles, 4.88 gears, Weber carb. Locked front and rear. Best of all, fours sons who LOVE TO RIDE!
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post #6 of 27 Old 02-02-2009, 12:00 AM
Fjguercio
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Lots of guys have posted problem with any Fuel Regulator other than the low pressure Holley. Weber recommend the use a the Holey Low Pressure Regulator set at 3 to 3.5psi. On most of the web sites and instructions too.

An alternative is the Carter #4070 low pressure rotary electric fuel pump. Summit has them $72. I have been reading about these and will try one in the spring. I have seen web right ups that say to use the regulator with this and others say it does not work right with regulator. I will be using this pump with holley regulator no return line. Seems there are dead head and return line type regulators. I have the holley dead head one and should work fine.

Here is some good info on Weber Tune & hook up. Was written for the Weber 34 but true for the 32/36 also.
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/weber-34-dgec-carb-too-rich-jets-tune-jeep-4-2-258-a-631105/

I mounted me here. I had to put some soft line from pump to fender mtded regulator. Others have posted to put hard fuel lines across the engine. This is clean and easy and will replace the fuel line when I replace fuel filter. My CJ is limited use 2-3k/y. I will put the carter pump below the gas tank and cap the mechanical pump port.
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post #7 of 27 Old 02-02-2009, 06:33 AM Thread Starter
jatepper
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Thanks for all the replies guys. Now, what about the fuel return line? Fjguercio, why did you put your FPR before the filter? The holly instructions I saw said to put it after the filter. Im sure you have a reason though.

How easy is it to adjust the float on the Weber? Do I have to take it apart?

Thanks!

1986 CJ7 Laredo - Triple Black Automatic 14k miles
1985 CJ7 Renegade - Automatic 33k miles
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post #8 of 27 Old 02-02-2009, 07:58 AM
SuB8HaVeN
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I put mine after the filter simply for the reasoning that I'd rather run filtered gas through the FPR than unfiltered. I also ran a line straight from the fuel pump into the FPR. I bought the fittings from Advance Auto, although I'm sure they're at Auto Zone as well (I personally prefer AZ). I have mine mounted like CJ Chet, except I just used the bracket that came with the FPR and mounted it directly to my valve cover (mine is same as his). If I remember right there are 2 holes that align perfectly with the 3 holes in the valve cover that used to hold some emissions vacuum line bracket, but all that is long gone now.

I also had trouble with the Mr. Gasket FPR, the design looks horrible and it leaked gas from all over the damn thing.

1986 Jeep CJ7 4.2L I6 T176 (restoration in progress)
1961 Willys 4x4 Wagon L-226 I6 T90 (restoration also in progress)
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post #9 of 27 Old 02-02-2009, 08:37 AM Thread Starter
jatepper
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What about the return line? Just continue use of it???? I thought I heard from someone to not use it anymore!!!

1986 CJ7 Laredo - Triple Black Automatic 14k miles
1985 CJ7 Renegade - Automatic 33k miles
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post #10 of 27 Old 02-02-2009, 09:52 AM Thread Starter
jatepper
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bump...comm'n need some help guys on the return line. Thanks

1986 CJ7 Laredo - Triple Black Automatic 14k miles
1985 CJ7 Renegade - Automatic 33k miles
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post #11 of 27 Old 02-02-2009, 10:35 AM
tamu83cj
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Sprkplug, how much did you adjust your float? i'm guessing you made it so it shut off when less fuel was in the bowl, but how much less?
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post #12 of 27 Old 02-02-2009, 10:36 AM
Fjguercio
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jatepper View Post
Thanks for all the replies guys. Now, what about the fuel return line? Fjguercio, why did you put your FPR before the filter? The holly instructions I saw said to put it after the filter. Im sure you have a reason though.

How easy is it to adjust the float on the Weber? Do I have to take it apart?

Thanks!


I have a fuel filter prior to the fuel pump also, so fuel thru new pump and FPR are filtered also.

The picture shows the fuel going to the Weber Carb Inlet, it ends there, there is now return line.

As mentioned, from my reading apprears to be two types of REGULATORS some that dead head like the Holley and some that are meant to use with a return line. I think you will be fine with a the dead head and the holley low pres regulator. The better would be to get the electric pump, return style regulatro, return line. There are options between too.

I do not believe you will need to touch the float.. Why do you ask???
Might want to take a look at the link above???
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post #13 of 27 Old 02-02-2009, 10:45 AM
SuB8HaVeN
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I've heard with the Weber 34/34 and 32/26 you should keep the return line. The Weber 38 may consume enough fuel to not require it. I still have the return line hooked up on mine.

1986 Jeep CJ7 4.2L I6 T176 (restoration in progress)
1961 Willys 4x4 Wagon L-226 I6 T90 (restoration also in progress)
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post #14 of 27 Old 02-02-2009, 11:06 AM
Sprkplug
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fjguercio View Post
I do not believe you will need to touch the float.. Why do you ask???
Might want to take a look at the link above???
I had mentioned it above. When I was in Hot Springs I had to adjust the float. On the steeper angles the bowl was dumping way to much fuel and flooding me out, bad. I adjusted the float to get a 1/2 full bowl and I haven't had a problem since. That was over 4 years ago.

Sparkplug

1978 Jeep CJ 7 258 6cyl Quadra-Trac with T400. Custom 3" body lift. Flatfendered. Custom bumpers. Full 6 point roll cage. 36" IROK's. 2 1/2 suspenion lift and 1/2 shackle lift. GM HEI, Superior 1-piece axles, 4.88 gears, Weber carb. Locked front and rear. Best of all, fours sons who LOVE TO RIDE!
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post #15 of 27 Old 02-02-2009, 11:13 AM
Fjguercio
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sprkplug View Post
I had mentioned it above. When I was in Hot Springs I had to adjust the float. On the steeper angles the bowl was dumping way to much fuel and flooding me out, bad. I adjusted the float to get a 1/2 full bowl and I haven't had a problem since. That was over 4 years ago.
That might be true, but this does not seem to be the norm for the weber carbs from my reading in the past year. Yours is one of the few I have read. I read everthing I see on the webers.. I would think he would change jets if need long before he would have to adj the float.

He does not "read" to me the kinda guy that would be adjusting the float and have that level hands on use.

Not disputing what you said.
Fred
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