Is there any problem with blowing seals in the diffs with 10 pounds of pressure? I am building a 48 willys with a d60 rear and d44 high pinion front, 5.0 efi ford mustang and 4 speed auto so I don't know about doing the trans and lastly how did you hook the line to the mig tip on the dist cap? Great info and thanks much
Trust me when I say I've done this and you WILL NOT blow out the seals with 10 PSI at the regulator.
By the time it leaks around axle seals, pinion seal, there is barely positive pressure in the case, and I haven't moved my new seals one bit since I hooked pressure up to my rebuilt front end.
Most of us have old, leaking seals anyway, that's how the water/crud is getting in in the first place (and my expensive gear lube is getting out!)
So all you are doing is adding some pressure tying to give those leaking seals some reinforcement doing their jobs.
7 to 10 PSI hasn't been an issue for me, but you might try some lower pressures if you *Think* 10 PSI is too much...
I just wish they made a seal that did it's job without dying from vibration, age & crud long before the differential needs rebuilt...
Yup, I use Valvoline Synthetic or Mobile 1 Synthetic.
They don't allow moisture to penetrate like regular grease does.
Smaller molecules pack together more tightly, less room for the grease to bond with moisture.
A little more expensive, but after initial rebuild, you are using LESS of the grease since you aren't having to flush, clean and repack 5 or 6 times a year to keep the moisture/crud out,
You simply pump a little fresh grease in to clear the crap out of the seals and put things back together...
JUST REMEMBER NOT TO PACK GREASE INTO THE LOCK OUT SWITCH ON ASSEMBLY!
The hub and spindle can be COMPLETELY Full of grease and in fact it's a really good idea if it is packed with grease...
The lockout SWITCH cavity gets sprayed with 'White' grease, a fairly thin coating, and left alone!
If you pack it with grease, the plunger/engagement dog can't move around, and your lockout won't work!
I make sure I use gaskets to keep the moisture out of the switch, but it's guaranteed you are going to get moisture in there.
The good news is, it's 5 or 6 little screws to check/service it!
You won't even get your hands dirty if you are careful...
FINALLY getting around to putting a zerk in my hubs and I've been practicing on some old ones I have laying around, I was wondering what you use to "dimple" the area around the zerk for clearance and so it seats better?
I don't know why, but in the pic of the hub with the red spray tube through it, I thought it looked like some of the area was ground away (maybe the size of a dime) and figured it was so the base of the zerk sat flush against the hub. I'm still experimenting on my scrap ones for the right angle, but on my first go round the part of the zerk where a wrench would go hit against the housing before it sat all the way in. That's the "dimple" I was referring to, kinda like from drywall.
I've noticed the lack of this tool with some mechanics. At some point in the past I decided to change the front rotors and other parts on my Suburban (I'm pretty sure I couldn't leave the driveway to get to work on that day). Normally I would have taken it to the local mechanic and alignment guy who has a good rep in town, but he's a moonlighter from a bigger shop in the city and I was stuck home from work for the day w/ my busted truck. Long story short, one of the things I found was the bearing seat was all mashed where he had beat on it with a hammer to take the hub apart on a previous repair. No wonder I was sitting in my driveway changing parts instead of sitting at the office doing work for pay. It was additionally irritating that I had no spare vehicle that day to go get parts... I had to walk to the parts store and back. I also didn't bring him repair work ever again...
I was out on a hunting trip not that long ago. While cruising the logging roads there was a distinct clatter from the front driver's side wheel. It didn't take me long to figure out that the axle stub was bouncing in the hub. "Huh, there must be a bearing in there that is supposed to keep that from flopping around" I thought to myself. And so here I am, reading your thread and building a list of parts Thanks for your contribution Hammer, yet again.
I feel your pain! I've seen it time and time again.
a good 75% of the Jeeps I see have chisel marks on the spindle nuts and hammer marks on the spindles. I cringe every time I have to tell another owner he's in for another $100 or more in parts just to fix what the PO or his idiot 'Mechanic' did before we can even start to fix his 'Issues'...
The funny thing is, those spindle nuts are a standard size, a good shop should have a socket, and for home 'Mechanics' the proper spindle socket is around $10, but they still use chisels insted of a proper socket.
The other side of that is, there is no way in the world you can get the correct pre-load on that wheel bearing set with a chisel!
It's a totally insane way to do things...
Then there are those hammer marks on the spindle.
A soft face hammer or wood block between hammer and spindle, like any rational person would do in a pinch, and those hammer marks wouldn't be there!
They had to use a HARD FACED HAMMER DIRECTLY ON THAT SPINDLE to leave those hammer dents in the steel, so you KNOW they were about as sharp as a softball!
I used to use one of two things to remove spindles,
I used the spindle nuts and a gear puller pushing off the axle, which forced the axle into the differential,
And I used several nuts with a strap welded over them side to side for a slide hammer.
Since every spindle you run into is a different size, and I didn't work on 4x4 vehicles all that often, I never purchased the VERY EXPENSIVE puller set from someplace like 'Snap-On'...
I'm not working on a shop floor anymore, mostly Jeeps now, I purchased the inexpensive version shown and it's really worked well.
With the slide hammer lining up rigid with the center line of the spindle, instead of what I made by welding a strap over nuts, this thing takes the spindles out MUCH cleaner and with much less effort.
Not saying you won't have to hammer the crap out of spindles that haven't been removed in 15 years and are rusted in like crazy, but it does take them out CLEANLY, and once out, you can clean things up, use a little 'Never-Seize' and it won't be the fight to the death it was the first time when you pull them again...
I expected threads to be pulled on the spindle or to strip out the tool, but I've used mine dozens of times on REALLY STUCK spindles, and so far, no thread pulling at all, just remember to screw it on as far as it will go so you engage all the threads possible and it will work fine.
Good to run into something VERY reasonably priced (Around $20, minus slide hammer) that works exactly as advertised, lives a good long time, and doesn't damage the parts we have such a hard time replacing since they haven't made a factory spindle in 27 years.
This is NOT like the 'Omix-Ada' or 'Crown' parts for Jeeps we've been so accustomed to from aftermarket suppliers, and I for one am glad to give it full marks and highest recommendations!
JeepHammer, you wouldn't happen to still have a photo of the grease hole location that you drilled in the spindle would you? It doesn't show up when I read the earlier posts in this thread. Any other photos that didn't show had enough of a description that I understand what you were saying, but the location of that hole in a photo would be much appreciated.
I'm trying to get the 'Junk Yard Genius' web site back up and running, It will display again when that happens...
It's the ANGLE that's the trick, you want to come out right behind the outside bearing race in the 'Valley' that is cast into the hub to knock out the races...
That will let you screw in the zerk with socket and 1/4" drive 'Screwdriver' handle.
If you are using 'Press In' zerks, then it's not an issue, but press in type break off, it's a real pain to pull what's left out. You are better off drilling it out than pulling it.
Either way works, I'm just old school, and I have a full set of drills/taps so I tap about everything I can...