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Unread 11-17-2011, 12:36 PM   #16
hutch1200
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bearing size didn't change that I'm aware of from '71 to end of production in '86...-J-Hammer.
I've checked Q-tec/Morris 4x4....even went to warn and Mile markers site. They aren't showing anything in a 6 blot 81-86. I'm swapping from '79 N-Tracks to '86 W-trax (D-30F & D-44 rear).
"
"This means CJs with drum brakes can upgrade to disk and CJs with cheesy 5 bolt locking hubs can upgrade to 6 bolt locking hubs." from offroaders.com
Sooo Mile markers "CJ Universal ‘72-’80 (6-bolt 27-spline)" will work for me? (pn 457-Supreme)???

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Unread 11-17-2011, 12:40 PM   #17
Boomer23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeepHammer View Post
Ask here on the forum for 'Used' hubs, they aren't wear items since they ride on bearings, they don't wear away with use.
Someone here is probably switching to a bigger axle and will have the parts up for sale,

Check the For Sale board here and other places...

Having an entire front axle isn't a bad idea,
Extra axle shafts, spindles, lockouts, brake parts, steering knuckles ect. if you have room to store it...

LINK:



NOTICE THE 6 BOLT HOLES FOR THE LOCKOUT?

You can probably find them cheaper if you search hard...

You might try this link before you do the swap, you might find some ideas/pictures that will help you...

Link: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/wa...5/#post6395695
So here is one last additional question:

Just checking internet Jeep Parts places, most offer hubs without Studs or Cups. Would my old studs and cups work on new hubs, or do you recommend replacing those as well? If I replace them, do I replace the studs and cups to the older specifications or to cups and studs of the year and model of my Jeep?

Basically I would need:
-Replacement Hub with 6 bolts for the lockout
-New Front Outer Wheel Bearing Cups
-Studs
-New Premium Lockouts
-Gaskets...do new Lockouts come with gaskets or should I order those as well?

Then Go ahead and replace the Model Specific (84 CJ) Wheel Bearing and Rotor (5 Bolt) while Im at it.

Sorry for all the questions, just want to make sure I get the right parts lined up!!

Last edited by Boomer23; 11-17-2011 at 01:35 PM..
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Unread 11-17-2011, 12:50 PM   #18
hutch1200
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OK, answered my own Q! I think. I can use my '79 hub, on my '86 axle...and then put the 6 lug unit in. No?
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Unread 11-17-2011, 12:57 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hutch1200 View Post
bearing size didn't change that I'm aware of from '71 to end of production in '86...-J-Hammer.
Actually they did. The inner bearing on drum brake wheelbearing hubs is different than disc brake. The drum inner bearings have larger inner diameter. Drum inner is a 1349 with a 1310 race. Disc inner is a 2949 with a 2910 race. Outer bearings/races are the same on either.

Quote:
Originally Posted by hutch1200 View Post
OK, answered my own Q! I think. I can use my '79 hub, on my '86 axle...and then put the 6 lug unit in. No?
Correct (though the lockouts aren't referred to as 5 lug or 6 lug, they are bolts not lugs).
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Unread 11-17-2011, 01:00 PM   #20
hutch1200
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Front Hub Assembly

For 1976 Jeep® CJ Using 1 5/8" Bearing, 1 3/4" Bearing

Quadratec Part No: 52417.02
Manufacturer Part No: J8136651
BTW J-Hammer, this is what makes the '76 "special". Found this gem while looking @ hubs @ q-tec.
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Unread 11-17-2011, 01:09 PM   #21
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Thanx CSP. W/72 thoughts per minute, and looking @ 6 websites....I confused hub w/rotor! Thanx for the heads up on the whole "they are bolts not lugs".
"I'd rather embarrass myself behind a keyboard, than in front of a parts counter..."-hutchs' 1st original thought. You guys might want to write than down.
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Unread 11-17-2011, 01:21 PM   #22
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Anyway, I know '77 to '80 HUB will swap right onto the '81-'86 spindle.
No need to change anything else but the lockout when you do the swap.

I have used the 5 bolt Premium Mile Marker lockouts with success, but I suggest you clean the holes out REALLY WELL and use the highest quality bolts you can find with lock washers, and maybe lock washers with lock tite on the bolts.

For some reason, 5 bolt lock outs like to back the bolts out,
While 6 bolt hole hubs hold the lockouts just fine.

Again, I don't know why for sure, but I suspect it might be the pattern of flexing as the wheel rotates under load.
Just an observation, not intended to start a flame war.
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Unread 11-17-2011, 01:21 PM   #23
RobsCrawlin7
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i didnt read the whole thread, just to the point where JH posted. but i know on mine (WT with NT hubs and warn premiums) i can only use the pre 82 calipers on it too as the wide track caliper bolts are a little more spread out.

also if i could do it again i wouldnt have gotten the warns, as JH stated there is just as good/better out there for cheaper. my buddy has the superwinch ones and they are nice as you only have 1/4 turn to lock/unlock them
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I used Marvel once before I took my Jeep out on the trails. I didn't get stuck all weekend so I guess it works.
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Unread 11-17-2011, 01:29 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by TheRyans33 View Post
i didnt read the whole thread, just to the point where JH posted. but i know on mine (WT with NT hubs and warn premiums) i can only use the pre 82 calipers on it too as the wide track caliper bolts are a little more spread out.
Calipers really don't have anything to do with this swap. The rotors and calipers stay with the year or your axle. Only the wheelbearing hub and lockouts are necessary as new parts for the swap.

I agree about not using Warm premiums. Both the Milemarker and Superwinch hubs are better choices. Warn got cheap on their internals in the premiums about ten years ago.
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Unread 11-17-2011, 01:36 PM   #25
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Reading JeepHammer's response to my post explains I guess why I didn't see what the issue was. Seems I was blessed with the right parts from the gitgo!
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Unread 11-17-2011, 01:39 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CSP View Post
Calipers really don't have anything to do with this swap. The rotors and calipers stay with the year or your axle. Only the wheelbearing hub and lockouts are necessary as new parts for the swap.

I agree about not using Warm premiums. Both the Milemarker and Superwinch hubs are better choices. Warn got cheap on their internals in the premiums about ten years ago.
yeah your right, im an idiot and forgot that i swapped over the knuckle too
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Quote:
Originally Posted by my_304_cj7 View Post
I used Marvel once before I took my Jeep out on the trails. I didn't get stuck all weekend so I guess it works.
SSG David Mejias, SSG Eric Vick, SGT William Bowling, SGT Robert McDowell
1 April 2007
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Unread 11-17-2011, 01:59 PM   #27
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"yeah your right, im an idiot and forgot that i swapped over the knuckle too". Ok, was that for real, or just snarcasm? I'm staring @ 2 D-30's. '79 NT w/discs, and 86 WT w'discs. Sooo in order for me to get 6 bolt hubs on my '86....I'm gonna use my '9 knuckles and hubs on the '86 WT? Or do I keep my '86 knuckles? I'm being a pita 'cuz I finished up w/the re gearing to 4.10's and true-trac install in the centersection of the WT axle. AND the WT knuckles are waiting for pick-up @ the powdercoaters!
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Unread 11-17-2011, 02:07 PM   #28
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It's good to have solid parts,
If I were the guy with the 5 bolt lockouts, I wouldn't worry about switching the hubs to 6 bolt unless I had issues with the lockouts and/or hubs.

I would just use the Premium 5 bolt lockouts and Thread Lock/lock washer the crap out of them.

That will be PLENTY for most guys. You have to be REAL hard on things to need the hub swap so you can have 6 bolt lockouts.
I just happen to be one of those guys.

I've sheered off two sets of premium 5 bolt lockouts.
Get one front tire spinning, when it grabs traction, GOOD BYE ALL 5 BOLTS.

I have no idea why the sixth bolt is enough to keep things together if 5 won't hold it, but it's worked for me for the past 20 years or so.

Now, the factory 5 bolt LOCKOUTS are JUNK, you can blow them apart with very moderate wheeling,
And they've popped right in front of me, it's ALWAYS the thin cast housing that gives up...
If you do very much wheeling at all, consider putting on the premium lock outs and be done with it.
If you don't break them, you don't need to get the 6 bolt hubs or lockouts...

Like I said, live and learn... learning requires you pry that wallet open!
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Unread 11-17-2011, 02:24 PM   #29
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"You have to be REAL hard on things to need the hub swap so you can have 6 bolt lockouts" J-Hameer.
It seems every day I end up w/a "smarter than NOBODY award"! Now that I'm making over 400hp, and have a tru-trac, I might as well go for the 6 bolt route. I didn't spare anything on the engine/tranny, so why start now. I plan on a sunny day cruiser, a little mud bogging and lots of trail riding. But w/my "schleprock" luck...I'm gonna be on a power line somewhere, alone...and we all know how that story ends. It took me 2 years to find a frame for this 3rd incarnation. So I quit doin' Meth for a day, and buy a set of hubs. What's 1 more week getting the right stuff, in the scope of it all. I want something NICE/FUN&SAFE to hand down to my boys.
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Unread 11-17-2011, 02:51 PM   #30
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[QUOTE=JeepHammer;12521073]Mopar346,
I covered the 'Torque Fuse' thing...

---------------------------------
Yea, I see that now, I was rushing into a meeting and didn't read your entire post. I just read everything to get back to current, really some great info.

Hutch - I guess it's too late now but it sounds like you got a grand or more in a Dana 30. You sure that is wise? Did I miss what size tire you plan to run?
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