Warn full floating rear axle - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 8 Old 07-17-2007, 09:23 PM Thread Starter
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1984 CJ7 
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Warn full floating rear axle

Since I just purchased a CJ7 I was doing my dream list of mods. Not going extreme, but one thing I was thinking of was the Warn full floating rear axle since I'm staying with the AMC 20. From what I can see this is no longer available. Is this true, and if so was it because it had problems or just wasn't a good axle system, or wasn't it selling very good? If it was a good axle and someone has one I'm interested. if it was wasn't good then I guess I'll go with a 1 piece axle.

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post #2 of 8 Old 07-17-2007, 09:42 PM
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1978 CJ7 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Deep East Texas
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The one piece axle was OK. The rear lock out hubs were crap. I bought them to flat tow with out having to drop the rear drive shaft. When locked they would unlock under torque! Seems like every time Warn does something other than winches (suspensions, axles) they are out of their element. They discontinued the whole axle thing.

I wasted some BIG $$$ on the hubs (although they look cool on the rear)! I'm done with Warn.
That's a Warn(ing).

1978 CJ-7 original owner; AMC 401 V-8 (w/some goodies);NP4500;D300 (w/Curry 4:1); D44 front;AMC20 (Warn one piece axles) rear
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post #3 of 8 Old 07-17-2007, 09:46 PM Thread Starter
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I figured there must be a problem or it would be a hot item. My main reason was for flat towing as well (getting lazy). I guess I'll just disconnect the rear driveshaft when flat towing and go with a one piece axle later.
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post #4 of 8 Old 07-17-2007, 09:47 PM
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just get drive flanges for it

'84 CJ7, '96 CTD, '00 TJ
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post #5 of 8 Old 07-18-2007, 10:03 AM
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Why Warn?
If memory serves, I think the rear axle conversion to full floating was just a mixture of O.E.M. parts. The only custom thing needed was the axle shaft.
Maybe that was if you had the D44 tho.
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post #6 of 8 Old 07-18-2007, 10:55 AM
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I have the Warn F/F and you're right the lock out hubs are crap. But has far as strength its hard to beat the system, take the load bearing off of the axle and putting it on the hub assembly. I busted up my Narrow trac housing with the F/F and replaced it with a W/T housing and I was able to buy just the axles from Warn and I reused my hubs with drive flanges. So I have a set of N/T axles for a full floater I'll let go for the cost of shipping

YeloCJ, 360, 36's and Detroits f/r, T-18, Tera-low 20
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post #7 of 8 Old 07-23-2007, 02:08 AM
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Last edited by T18A; 05-16-2008 at 01:29 AM.
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post #8 of 8 Old 07-23-2007, 03:25 AM
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They are tough, but yes, the hubs were crap. Tough in that the full floater axles are nice for what they are meant to do. Crap in the regards that mine leaked the diff oil out and sprayed all over my damn wheels. Messy and all I got from the shop that installed them was excuses. It's warn's fault, not the shop's, I was just pissed to have spent that much money and then have to clean my wheels all the time. They have taken much abuse and with my lower gears and locker, when I bent my axle tubes I stuck with the M20 over finding a new rear due to the investment.

I had the axle housing retubed, my bearing cups welded back on and a ford 8.8 shim kit put back in instead of the stock M20 crush sleeve. My M20 is now bullet proof, but really, I've never actually shot at it. I have beat it over some serious rocks though, and it's held up well. I've seen YJs break detroit lockers where this old M20 just hammers through, FWIW.

However, they came up with some lock out stubs which replaced the hubs and genuinely sealed things up right and removed a lot of the slop (hysteresis) that the hubs put into the system. Sure, I had the dream of eventually flat towing, now I'll have to remove the stubs and put some sort of cap on it for that, or just remove the driveshaft. I'll probably just remove the driveshaft.

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