Warn 8274 rebuild - JeepForum.com
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #1 of 102 Old 03-23-2010, 08:54 AM Thread Starter
wm69
Registered User
1985 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 4,174
Warn 8274 rebuild

I found a couple of pretty in depth rebuilds on the net (one on pirate, other on ih8mud) but neither addressed my problem.

I picked up a Jeep Special Equipment 8274 late last week. It was on the front of a 76 Waggy and I bought the whole thing. Not sure what I'm going to do with the Waggy, but the guy didn't want to sell the winch separately.

Anyhow, serial number is 12XXX, so looks like an early one.

Solenoid cover was gone, solenoids are trashed, motor is going to be rebuilt locally just to be on the safe side. Needs a controller. I'll end up with quite a bit in it just in parts, but I figure it will be worth it to have a completely rebuild old Warn. Gears look good.

The drum is seized. I soaked it with PB blaster and managed to get the non-motor end off, and the drum will now turn with some effort, but it needs a lower bushing kit and I need to get it apart and smooth everything up. The end that meshes with the gears is really on there. I don't want to get too nasty with it and crack the lower gear housing. I have not removed the brake yet (waiting on Dad to find his monster sized snap ring pliers) so still have to do that, but from what I've seen, the drum is just pushed up into the housing and held in place by a lock plate. I have the plate pulled up, and I cannot get this thing to budge.

Am I missing something or does anyone have any suggestions as to how to break it loose?


85 CJ7 258, borla header, Team Rush, MC2100 ,optima batt, Warn 8274, agr super box 2 & pump, T5 w/ B&M shifter, centerforce 2, superior 1 piece axles, warn hubs 2.5 in lift, 31" BFG MT

85 CJ7 258, A/C, T176, MC2100, Team Rush, Warn XD8000i, superwinch hubs, 3in lift 31" BFG AT/KO
wm69 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 102 Old 03-23-2010, 11:37 AM
JeepnBlake
Registered User
2004 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Lincoln Nebraska
Posts: 3,297
Heat might help.

-Blake-

Build Thread:
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Dad's Build Thread:
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

OEM Fog Light Connectors, Conversions, and Extension Info:
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
JeepnBlake is offline  
post #3 of 102 Old 03-23-2010, 01:32 PM
RARECJ8
Registered User
 
RARECJ8's Avatar
1981 CJ8 
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Reno/Tahoe
Posts: 2,116
The BillaVista rebuild article is the very best. If not, maybe a gentle application of the BFH?

mb

Look it's a 4.6!
Life member BRC
Cal4Wheel. ECV 3697

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
RARECJ8 is offline  
 
post #4 of 102 Old 03-23-2010, 02:16 PM Thread Starter
wm69
Registered User
1985 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 4,174
Quote:
Originally Posted by RARECJ8 View Post
The BillaVista rebuild article is the very best. If not, maybe a gentle application of the BFH?

mb
Been banging on it with a rubber mallet. Scared I'm going to crack the housing. I think I might try removing the brake and shaft and associated parts and then see if I can't get a better shot at getting some penetrating oil down where the gears mesh.

Want to put a new lower kit in it before I put it back together. Brake seems to be frozen anyway, so gotta get that off and redo it too.

85 CJ7 258, borla header, Team Rush, MC2100 ,optima batt, Warn 8274, agr super box 2 & pump, T5 w/ B&M shifter, centerforce 2, superior 1 piece axles, warn hubs 2.5 in lift, 31" BFG MT

85 CJ7 258, A/C, T176, MC2100, Team Rush, Warn XD8000i, superwinch hubs, 3in lift 31" BFG AT/KO
wm69 is offline  
post #5 of 102 Old 03-24-2010, 02:28 AM
pazur
Registered User
1981 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: eastern Europe
Posts: 217
You can remove brake without taking it apart. It is held only with the same locking plate and brass bushing. Just hit the shaft from inside with some hard wood prick (some recommend brass - IMO not necessary). Brake is much tougher to take apart than drum, so don't mess up with it unless you want to replace pads.
pazur is offline  
post #6 of 102 Old 03-25-2010, 06:09 AM
GPER
Registered User
1979 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Dayton, Ohio
Posts: 1,826
Most likely your brake has not been rebuilt since it was new. Therefor it is of the old design and should be rebuilt with the new parts, it isn't that hard to do.
GPER is offline  
post #7 of 102 Old 03-25-2010, 09:31 PM Thread Starter
wm69
Registered User
1985 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 4,174
Quote:
Originally Posted by pazur View Post
You can remove brake without taking it apart. It is held only with the same locking plate and brass bushing. Just hit the shaft from inside with some hard wood prick (some recommend brass - IMO not necessary). Brake is much tougher to take apart than drum, so don't mess up with it unless you want to replace pads.
Got the brake off. Ended up putting a 2x4 on the inner part of the housing and hammering it off. Haven't taken it apart yet but will put a kit in it before I put it back on.

Drum is seized, so it needs to come off, new bushings put in, smoothed up before reinstallation.

Moved it a littel bit today. Will get it off with PB blaster, a propane torch, and a rubber mallet. Might take me 10 years, but that SOB is coming off.....

85 CJ7 258, borla header, Team Rush, MC2100 ,optima batt, Warn 8274, agr super box 2 & pump, T5 w/ B&M shifter, centerforce 2, superior 1 piece axles, warn hubs 2.5 in lift, 31" BFG MT

85 CJ7 258, A/C, T176, MC2100, Team Rush, Warn XD8000i, superwinch hubs, 3in lift 31" BFG AT/KO
wm69 is offline  
post #8 of 102 Old 03-25-2010, 10:52 PM
Trapshooter
Registered User
1986 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Jacksonville, Oregon
Posts: 2,309
I just rebuilt a 1979, 8274 this summer following the pirate 4x4 instructions that you noted. After pulling the lock plate as per item # 37 of the pirate instructions the drum separated from the housing.

Looking down from the top of the gear housing you should be able to see where the large reduction gear meshes with the drum end gear. Are the gears totally corroded?

I am going to ask a dumb question....the lock plate is completely inverted as in item # 40 of the pirate 4x4 instructions.

I have many of the part numbers for the busing kits, solenoid cover, etc. in my files, unfortunately I am on the road and won't be home until late tomorrow night. Let me know if you need those part numbers and I'll get them posted on Saturday.

'86 CJ7, 258, Carter BBD, Nutter'ed, TeamRush'ed, T-18, Twin Sticked Dana 300, D30 Frt-Pwr Lok L/S-4.10, AMC 20 Rear-Mosers-Detroit Locker-4.10, 2.5 BDS Lift, 1" Body Lift, 33" Wild Country M/Ts, Black Spoke wheels

'45 CJ2A, L134 Go Devil, T-90 Tranny, Warn O/D, T-18 T-Case, Dana 25 Frt, Dana 41 Rear, 531st CJ made

My 401 build:
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Trapshooter is offline  
post #9 of 102 Old 03-26-2010, 03:22 AM
pazur
Registered User
1981 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: eastern Europe
Posts: 217
The locking plate goes there one way; #40 picture does not show it in locked position. Its upper side must be level with the lowe case mating surface. If the plate is e.g. 1 mm higher the drum is not locked.
Make photos as you take the winch apart. Pirate bay guide e.g. does not show how you place the brake transmission gear, how you assemble brake. Be careful not to put too much grease inside brake. You don't have to replace pads if they are 30 years old. Winches are usually used for pulling out of mud, thus brake does not wear fast. In my 8274 OE pads were like new.
Some folks suggest to replace the brake retainer ring with bolt and they claim they threaded brake shaft. Don't try to drill into the shaft. Is is a hardened still and regular HSS, plated with platinum or whatever drill has no chance to bite into this. You would need carbide tools. short 3/16 drill costs $10.
pazur is offline  
post #10 of 102 Old 03-26-2010, 07:10 AM
halpeters
Registered User
1978 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Central Florida
Posts: 255
Check out the WARN site:

Warn Industries - Replacement Parts

They have many parts for the older units, and parts schematics on line...

Hal

1978 CJ-7
halpeters is offline  
post #11 of 102 Old 03-26-2010, 07:14 AM
Chris98TJ
Registered User
1998 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: South Louisiana
Posts: 271
warnserviceparts.com has the cheapest parts that ive found when i rebuilt mine

98 tj sport Aussie locked front and rear 4.10's HPD30 8.8 super short sye cv shaft 4.5 lift johnny joint adj. control arms 36in TSL's gen right hi fenders header exhaust custom rockers Solid axle covers f/r the list goes on
Leading bullet sponge for JF Call of Duty crew
X BOX GT- CHRIS98TJ
Chris98TJ is offline  
post #12 of 102 Old 03-26-2010, 09:39 AM Thread Starter
wm69
Registered User
1985 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 4,174
Quote:
Originally Posted by Trapshooter View Post
I just rebuilt a 1979, 8274 this summer following the pirate 4x4 instructions that you noted. After pulling the lock plate as per item # 37 of the pirate instructions the drum separated from the housing.

Looking down from the top of the gear housing you should be able to see where the large reduction gear meshes with the drum end gear. Are the gears totally corroded?

I am going to ask a dumb question....the lock plate is completely inverted as in item # 40 of the pirate 4x4 instructions.

I have many of the part numbers for the busing kits, solenoid cover, etc. in my files, unfortunately I am on the road and won't be home until late tomorrow night. Let me know if you need those part numbers and I'll get them posted on Saturday.
Yeah, when I got the brake shaft out the lock plate was released and came out, so it's off the housing.

Pretty sure the drum and reduction gear are just rusted together. I've been soaking with PB blaster and it's moved a little bit. I'm banging on it with a rubber mallet because I'm scared I'll break the lower gear housing. It's slowly separating, so I'll just keep banging on it, soaking, banging, soaking. I think it helped a lot after I got the brake shaft out of the way so I can sit the winch up and let the penetrating oil sit in the hub of the gear where it meshes with the drum. Hopefully I'll get it off this weekend.

I've got most of the parts I need. I'm retaining the old style solenoids and am going to use golf cart solenoids from DB Electric so I can replace them easily and cheaply. Got an aluminum copy of a solenoid cover that I found while searching (looks almost exactly like the original plastic cover but is aluminum) and I'm going to replace lower bushings, brake innards, new remote and socket, and put some zerks on the end cap to grease the free end of the drum easily. Still have to get my motor rebuilt by local guys. Also found a reproduction Jeep Special Equipment sticker that looks like the original one, so when I get it put back together it's gonna look awesome.

Probably be a long process, but I've almost got the thing apart where I can get it cleaned up. The Jeep it came off of has been parked for 15 years, and I'm guessing the winch was rarely used, so it might not have been used for 20+ years.

85 CJ7 258, borla header, Team Rush, MC2100 ,optima batt, Warn 8274, agr super box 2 & pump, T5 w/ B&M shifter, centerforce 2, superior 1 piece axles, warn hubs 2.5 in lift, 31" BFG MT

85 CJ7 258, A/C, T176, MC2100, Team Rush, Warn XD8000i, superwinch hubs, 3in lift 31" BFG AT/KO
wm69 is offline  
post #13 of 102 Old 03-26-2010, 09:43 AM Thread Starter
wm69
Registered User
1985 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 4,174
Quote:
Originally Posted by pazur View Post
The locking plate goes there one way; #40 picture does not show it in locked position. Its upper side must be level with the lowe case mating surface. If the plate is e.g. 1 mm higher the drum is not locked.
Make photos as you take the winch apart. Pirate bay guide e.g. does not show how you place the brake transmission gear, how you assemble brake. Be careful not to put too much grease inside brake. You don't have to replace pads if they are 30 years old. Winches are usually used for pulling out of mud, thus brake does not wear fast. In my 8274 OE pads were like new.
Some folks suggest to replace the brake retainer ring with bolt and they claim they threaded brake shaft. Don't try to drill into the shaft. Is is a hardened still and regular HSS, plated with platinum or whatever drill has no chance to bite into this. You would need carbide tools. short 3/16 drill costs $10.

When I got the brake shaft (brake assembly is still on the shaft, got to find some snap ring pliers) off the ring spins freely around the housing sides. I can hear the ball bearings in there so they are free. How exactly does this thing work? (what engages the pads?)

85 CJ7 258, borla header, Team Rush, MC2100 ,optima batt, Warn 8274, agr super box 2 & pump, T5 w/ B&M shifter, centerforce 2, superior 1 piece axles, warn hubs 2.5 in lift, 31" BFG MT

85 CJ7 258, A/C, T176, MC2100, Team Rush, Warn XD8000i, superwinch hubs, 3in lift 31" BFG AT/KO
wm69 is offline  
post #14 of 102 Old 03-29-2010, 06:41 AM
pazur
Registered User
1981 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: eastern Europe
Posts: 217
It is the shaft itself that expands as you twist it to one side (braking). closer examine it if you have it off the winch. The balls inside brake assembly: IMO a sealed bearing would work much nicer but Warn designed it this way. Their condition affects only braking. Not winching.
pazur is offline  
post #15 of 102 Old 03-29-2010, 09:26 AM Thread Starter
wm69
Registered User
1985 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 4,174
Thanks for the reply. I'm going to take it apart and have a look at it. Would be nice if everything looked ok, but given the condition of the rest of the winch I'm planning on having to rebuild the brake as well.

85 CJ7 258, borla header, Team Rush, MC2100 ,optima batt, Warn 8274, agr super box 2 & pump, T5 w/ B&M shifter, centerforce 2, superior 1 piece axles, warn hubs 2.5 in lift, 31" BFG MT

85 CJ7 258, A/C, T176, MC2100, Team Rush, Warn XD8000i, superwinch hubs, 3in lift 31" BFG AT/KO
wm69 is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the JeepForum.com forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid e-mail address for yourself.



Email Address:
OR

Log-in









Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Jeep Forums Replies Last Post
wiring up a warn 8274 dayriesw Jeep CJ Forum 6 12-15-2009 10:32 AM
WARN 8274 on a 3" Tube bumper? Oregon76CJ7 Jeep CJ Forum 6 02-13-2009 05:45 PM
8274 Winch Plate Help... poppatello Jeep CJ Forum 5 02-08-2009 11:50 AM
8274 warn winch jeep special equipment stumpman Jeep CJ Forum 2 12-17-2008 09:33 AM
warn winch 8274 sierra1boy Jeep CJ Forum 7 01-05-2006 07:28 AM

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome